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Crank Bolt came out

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Old 11-08-2007, 08:53 AM
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Default Crank Bolt came out

Crank bolt came loose yesterday and I could take it out by hand.....I have a d1sc w/ 6-rib. Can someone tell me the torque for the bolt or should I just impact it on.....

I am also looking into pinning the crank so if anyone has any pics or anything post em up.......thanks

Last edited by AFASTYZFR1; 11-08-2007 at 08:58 AM.
Old 11-08-2007, 09:01 AM
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A crank bolt coming out is VERY common, often people just put a lil loctite on it to keep it in place.

THe hub is what holds the dampener, you should pin it anyways so it doesnt have a chance to spin.
Old 11-08-2007, 09:04 AM
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You will need a new crank bolt. This time around, get it pinned too.
Old 11-08-2007, 05:25 PM
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Tq on the pulley bolt is massive. Use an old bolt to bed the pulley down at about 230 lbs/ft and then fit in a new bolt at 37 lbs/ft plus 180 degrees iirc. Before fitting the new bolt look for a 2-4 mm step appx between the pulley and crank snout.

Boosted.
Old 11-09-2007, 08:32 AM
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Will this work? Comes with new bolt

http://www.sd-concepts.com/cart/inde...1489cfcfa060ce
Old 11-09-2007, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by AFASTYZFR1
Will this work? Comes with new bolt

http://www.sd-concepts.com/cart/inde...1489cfcfa060ce
That will do the trick nicely

Keith
Old 11-09-2007, 05:33 PM
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That may not quite work. I believe the bolt in that kit is only to be used to hold the guide in place to drill/pin the crank. After the crank is drilled remove the bolt and the guide install the pin and new factory bolt....
Originally Posted by ls1290
That will do the trick nicely

Keith
Old 11-09-2007, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mikep2002
That may not quite work. I believe the bolt in that kit is only to be used to hold the guide in place to drill/pin the crank. After the crank is drilled remove the bolt and the guide install the pin and new factory bolt....
I assumed the instruction would be followed

Keith
Old 11-09-2007, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by ls1290
I assumed the instruction would be followed

Keith
I know exactly what you mean. Mine did not come with instructions it looked just like that. Just wanted to make sure there was very little confusion...
Old 11-09-2007, 11:03 PM
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As has been mentioned, use loctite on the new crank bolt. You will need to first clean the bolt threads of any shipping oils. Bob
Old 11-10-2007, 12:43 AM
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Anyone use this bolt?

http://www.sd-concepts.com/cart/inde...1489cfcfa060ce
Old 11-10-2007, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by AFASTYZFR1
I would save your money that bolt looks pretty pricey. And the factory bolts cost about 3 bucks and do a more than adequate job. I have read some posts about people having problems with aftermarket bolts. More than likey I would call most them operator error. We`re all gonna screw up stuff now and then. Preffer it not to be on the crank...The factory will work fine.. Good Luck to you.
Old 11-10-2007, 08:34 AM
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Buy the pinning kit & an APR crank bolt & use a drop of locktite. I got all that from Bob at EPP & have never had an issue.....other than it taking me 2 hrs to drill the crank shaft.
Old 11-10-2007, 02:46 PM
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I use the ARP bolt, no problems, I just use their lube on it no loctite. Nothing wrong with stockers, but I had mine on and off so many times the ARP made more sence. Very key to get the right torque on them, and get them pinned.
Old 11-10-2007, 05:22 PM
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Absolutly key your crank.The first build up I did with the D1SC I did not key the crank.That is why i'm running a Iron block now.The pulley spun the crank nose and I had to build a new motor because of my ignorance! Cost$$$



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