MonochromeSS

iTrader: (1)

Alright, after I detonated cylinder #7 over the summer with plugs that were too hot and a tune that was kinda aggressive, I'm looking to put a new motor in the car. Car put down 436 rwhp with 6 psi on a completely stock motor. My goal is somewhere around 600 rwhp. The motor I'm looking at doing is below, tell me what you think.

370 Texas Speed iron short block
L92/L76 heads setup
Boost cam (.580-600 lift)
TRT FMIC
T67 turbo with ~10 psi boost

Car already has a FLT stage 4 trans with a 3000 vig stall and a drive shaft that will pretty much take anything.

I think with that combo 600 rwhp or close to it should be attainable.

Thanks for the input.

JAvenger007

iTrader: (9)

go TC76 with that setup.

linn.35

Put a built 346/347 in your car with a nice boost cam and stock heads to save weight and money. Then put a GT4276 on your car, run 12 pounds of boost and make over 600rwhp.

You don't need an iron block to make reliable power.

Zombie

iTrader: (2)

I second this motion.
This sounds like I good idea and ends up being a lot cheaper. The stock heads should be 317's though

LastBlack02SS

iTrader: (21)

Where would you guys recommend the shortblock from? Sorry to hijack a little but I'm looking at maybe doing the same.

geeteego

iTrader: (1)

I don't know how an LS1 is going to be cheaper than an iron block.

I blew my motor in a similar manner #7 stopped and cracked the block.

My LQ9 came from Scoggin-Dickey and got to my builder very quickly.

New setup is well north of 600whp with ported 243's.

smoke20

iTrader: (2)

i bought my eng from HKE .. outstanding work, eng is ready for just about anything i can throw at it. Eric is the man!!!

build a 347 the weight saving is more than the cubic inch the 370 will produce horsepower wise. i think the iron block is almost 80 pounds heavier

MonochromeSS

iTrader: (1)

Well, the 347 aluminum motor is the same as the 370 iron motor from texas speed. its 20 cubes vs 80 lbs. So yeh, i guess saving 80 lbs is better than adding 20 cubes dollar for dollar. Which heads are the 317s?

trtturbo

iTrader: (25)

#317's are the 6.0 heads.

MonochromeSS

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so with 317 heads what should the dish size in the piston be to run low 9.0-9.5 compression?

longrange4u

iTrader: (2)

SOrry guys.. I gotta throw in my 1.5 Cents...

You would easily accomplish your goals with the setup you are looking at. That turbo would choke your 370 some, but you will NOT be able to put a GT42 series turbo in the back to replace that STS T-67 turbo without some signifficant modification. I would look at a small frame turbo like an ST70 and you could see 650+ RWHP. I saw 600+ with a Ported and Pollished T-67 turbo, stock block and LPE GT7 Cam.... pushing the limits of 42lb injectors.

Hope you have a back end that can support it too!!

Billy knows my setup well... I dont think your far from the right build.

MonochromeSS

iTrader: (1)

I'd like to stay with the smaller turbo that will bolt up to whats already there if at all possible.

If my calculations are correct the 317 heads + a 4cc dished piston should yield a CR around 9.2-9.3. That probably right around where i want to be.

What about fueling... I've got a walbro 255 in there right now and 42# injectors. Will a single 255 support 600 rwhp? I know i'll need 60# injectors.

Rear is still stock, I know its going to break sooner or later. Probably put a ford 9" in it just because i hear so many bad things about the strange/moser 12 bolts.

JAvenger007

iTrader: (9)

600 is about all for a single 255. a BAP and VAFPR can help. Meth can act as fuel too depending on how you have it setup.

longrange was your t67 combo setup for 10psi or was it turned up even more?

99Z28LS1

iTrader: (4)

i made 503/512 with 6psi on the stock LS1 and a cam with stock clutch. i dont see why building the bottom end of the LS1 and turning the psi to 10psi wouldnt net you over 600rwhp.

my car now has a new clutch and tranny and is a now. i bet my car makes 515-520rwhp with the shitty LT's and Ugly ypipe that's been cut into 5 million times. in a week or so, i will be replacing the manifolds with sotck ported and coated manifolds with an after market ORY with no cuts in it. hopefully i will get back my 1.5psi and make north of 545rwhp with stock LS1 and cam only on my GT67.

i say go for the 346 forged or 347 for money factor bro

PhillyLS1

iTrader: (3)

I put down 630hp on a mustang dyno with a 408
222/226 590/590 115lsa
GTP stage II Heads
9PSI on the 76
ran 10.87's 129mph w/ 6speed 1.6 60ft

longrange4u

iTrader: (2)

I think you can do it with your setup... wrap your exhaust and you well see much better spool. Besides that I think your dead on.

That cr would be fine... make sure you get a FMIC...

Your rear end will break sooner rather then later... but good luck with that.

PadreSmith

iTrader: (24)

I would tend to disagree with the aluminum motor option. You lose close to a horsepower per every 6lb addition of weight. Adding 80lbs will net you about a 14 horse loss. Assuming your FI motor is putting out one horse per cubic inch at the very least than an additional 20cubes gives you 20 horses. Which would be a net gain of about 6 horses. Wow i think i talked myself out of the iron block!!!

Basically I think it does boil down to how much you want to spend. If aluminum is cheaper than go with that option but dont forget about when rebuild time comes. Is resleeving an aluminum block cheaper than boreing out the iron block. Doubtful. Maybe that's where you save that extra money for the iron block. Hope my fuzzy logic helped.

MonochromeSS

iTrader: (1)

Actually... FI motor should be putting out almost 1.5-2 hp per cube easy. So that calculation becomes even more exaggerated, more like 20 gained from the 20 cubes. But it is FI so you could add a little more boost and get right back there. The turbo will probably be the limiting factor in max power on this setup anyway.

It is easier to bore the iron block, but i don't really plan on doing that. Cost wise they are identical 370 iron vs 347 aluminum. That is with new blocks, forged rods-pistons and stock cranks.

PadreSmith

iTrader: (24)

What intake manifold were you running with the engine that blew up? I've heard people talking about the ls6 manifolds running lean on that cylinder #7. Just curious if that was the case and not the spark plugs or the tune. Maybe that was what caused the condition in the first place...

MonochromeSS

iTrader: (1)

regular old ls1 intake, i was thinking about going to the ls6 intake. I thought they all pretty much had the same problem of leaning out #7. I've seen nitrous motors pop #7 too with an ls2 intake (or was it a fast i'm not sure).

I'm pretty sure it was the tune and the plugs, the plug was absolutely destroyed and some of the other plugs were noticeably worn especially for as few miles as i had them installed.