therealthatguy

iTrader: (23)

My 2000 Z28 just rolled over 90,000 miles, and a turbo set-up is definitley in my future, so my question is, is a high mileage ls1 worth dumping money into for a turbo, or would it be too much of a hassel as opposed to a new built motor? money is not the issue, hassel is the keyword....

Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

IMO i would do everything over.
Motor
Turbo
Trans
Rear end
etc.

Lots of ppl on this board change everything when they go to FI because aftermartet parts are more reliable under this kind of stress.

What kind of power do you want to be making?
Also take a look at the stickies.

LS2Camaro

iTrader: (5)

I would get a new built motor, check out the deals that many of these sponsors have for forced induction forged built motors. For example this was just quoted from speedinc.com in this thread https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/835337-what-stroker-go.html

"we also sell our well proven boost 6.0 motors for $3399

Includes Eagle H beam rods with ARP rod bolts
Diamond -15cc pistons/ plasma moly ring set/Clevite bearings.

no core charge

Boost prepped 403 Iron shortblock $4350

Compstar rotating assembly with Diamond pistons -15cc

L92 416ci shortblock $4850

same parts as above, L92 aluminum block"

Websy21

iTrader: (34)

Depends on goals and abuse you'll give it. On a safe amount of boost, motors have been proven to last quite awhile but I bet either the trans or rear would go first though. As a nice DD or cruiser under mild stress the drivetrain COULD also last awhile too. Some people have allot more luck than others, some blow up quick and some last. Depends on the current condition and what the future atmosphere will consists of. If money is no object, than call up a sponsor and give your car a New Year's Makeover

quik01ss

iTrader: (24)

It all depends on how much money you have. If you do the turbo and have no money and your motor goes then what same for the trans and rear in fi u need money to back things up when they break which most of the time thing do break...if u save money for the turbo and have other amounts of money saved do the turbo first and wait for something to break imo which I'm doing now tranny already went but got it fixed

98Z28MASS

iTrader: (6)

As everyone else said it depends on how much power you are looking to make. I would say throw the turbo kit on, keep it around 8-9 psi with a real spot on tune and it should last for a decent amount of time. Then, when your engine lets go build it up then (forged short block, good boost heads, good turbo cam, full fuel system, new tranny, rear, etc). If you have the money now and couldnt have the car down for an extended period of time then do it all at once but I vote for beating on the stock components then upgrading when needed, even if money isnt an issue. JMO.

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

Mileage means nothing - engine condition means everything. In addition to all the other comments, if you choose to go with the stock motor, get a good leakdown check done - that will tell you a lot about the condition of the motor and heads. Also useful if you decide to sell the current setup.

Jim

Boo"SS"t

iTrader: (2)

Disaster?.......well, only if it blows up!

But, like you said..."money is not the issue" so, you might as well build it for boost, co'z when your stock motor blows then it's really gonna be a hassel.

Hugger Z

iTrader: (4)

My engine had over 89k when my twin kit went on. I just put it in storage in Dec with over 95k on it. No problems yet, safe street tune. Plenty of power. I forsee a trans reuild and a new rearend in my future, but for now everything is surviving. Depends on the power level you are shooting for. Mine was whatever it would make with the safe street tune. And it works for me! Already have more power than traction most of the time.

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

I have a 5.3L I bought off of ebay, 100K miles+ Bone stock untouched shortblock seen 15psi all summer, and still running strong. I even sprayed a 50hp shot into it a few times.

Websy21

iTrader: (34)

Got to love those LS based engines

gametech

iTrader: (1)

I Whippled my 4.8L 2002 Silverado at over 120k miles. I only run 7-8lbs of boost, but I do a lot of towing, and it is still fine at 259K miles. LS motors last a while if taken care of (I change the oil at least every 8-10K miles).

SS2win

iTrader: (11)

If it's in good condition I don't see why you'd need to change anything. Just tune it well and keep it under 10lbs.

Hawk108

iTrader: (1)

Wow thats very impressive

gametech

iTrader: (1)

Actually, it isn't. We have 5 trucks at the shop with between 200k and 300k miles. Only one has had to have an engine changed, and it was used by several EXTREMELY abusive drivers who had no regard for routine maintenance. I just recently bought an Edelbrock Victor intake for mine, so I can run piping to an intercooler, tune SD, and up the boost.

Websy21

iTrader: (34)

I think thats hells ya, whats the CR on a stock 4.8? Thats enough boost for that much milleage on a vehicle that was desinged to run n/a. I know the 5.7 ls1's are 10:1 are the 4.8's higher? The tune is the most important anlong with engine condition and driving conditions of coarse. They mostly blow up b/c people get gready and up the boost!

gametech

iTrader: (1)

The 4.8 motors are about half a point less CR. However, the general theory of safe tune and halfway decent maintenance apply to any motor. There are VERY FEW people who have overpowered or worn out these engines. Most failures are due to tuning or sensor failures. A motor built for 1kHP can easily be fubared at 500HP by shoddy tuning or poor fueling component selection.

Websy21

iTrader: (34)

I agree, like I mentioned above the most important factor is the tune. It does apply to ANY motor as well. There is power limitations to stock motors though and I'd have to say in the most part that they let go are circumstances of people pushing the limitations of the stock components. Which usually is the rod bolts and pistons. I wish they came stock with stonger rod bolts and forged pistons, that would be sweet Stock motors tend to survive under a safe tune and a conservative ammount of boost, but take one of those away and its borrowed time. Even if the tune is in order it will eventually let go if the boost is turned up. Take the same conditions but yet stronger parts and of coarse it will survive much longer. LS1's generally are limited to 550rwhp @ 8psi, give or take a bit and then who knows how long it will last before you start LOL

Hawk108

iTrader: (1)

The mileage by itself is not impressive to me, but the fact that it has lasted for that many miles while under boost IS in fact impressive. We also have several of the 4.8's and 5.3's which have 200k-300k on them and run great. . . .none of them have ever had any serious work done to them besides general upkeep.