94blownz281

iTrader: (12)

I was running some springs i got from combination motorsports two years ago on my LT1 with stock internals except 1.6rr. doing a rebuild to a forged 355 LT1 and upgrading from a S-trim too a T-trim. might be buying a LT4 hotcam through a guy. i know its not the best for a blower motor but thats what i want. I don't have any idea where i plan to spin the motor too. its not a track car just a once awhile driver down the street so spinning the motor higher then stock isn't really a need for me. Now this company changed there name and i have no clue if they are still around or there new name. but the springs are comp ex-612. not sure if this will help anyone,but are these still okay to be using with the LT4 cam and a bigger blower. before i was pushing 7psi maybe more and plan for 10-12 max. also can i still keep using my stock 1994 harden pushrods? also i think i want to get rid of my lifters since they drank some antifreeze and the passergerside head never liked to pump up when adjusting valves. so that worries me a stock lifter is bad somewhere(noly 30,000miles on the car though. maybe just a new stock replacement and a stock replacement upgrade. thanks

94blownz281

iTrader: (12)

bump anyone?

BLWNnSPRDZ28

iTrader: (7)

I run Manley Nextek double valve springs with titanium retainers on heads/cam and 8psi spinning to around 6200. No problems at all. I also would suggest the GM LS7 lifter kit, good price and work very well. Just my thought, hope this helps.

94blownz281

iTrader: (12)

will the lifters work on LT1 motors?

94blownz281

iTrader: (12)

nevermind see you have a 96. thanks

engineermike

"T-trim" and "Hot cam" should never be written in the same post.

LJ ran 9's at 140 on an S-trim at ~12 psi. Just speed it up with a pulley swap. He didn't run a Hot cam, which should be no surprise to anyone making power.

What I'm saying is that you're spending money on an upgraded blower you don't need, and spending more money on an upgraded cam that's junk.

Mike

Turbo Tech

iTrader: (2)

In case your interested, for every pound of boost on a 2.00 valve size you will be giving up 3 psi of valve spring pressure. ie 25 psi is 75 less valve spring pressure on the seat

94blownz281

iTrader: (12)

mike reason is i like how its behaves like the stock cam and a guy on the board has and i'm getting from him once you takes it out to return most of his bloer motor back to stock. he has a T-trim with the cam and said the car runs perfectly fine. i'm not saying your wrong at all,maybe the car won't run very well with the cam is what i'm getting from you. might sound silly but i like how loud the T-trim is. my V1 head unit sucks for sound....

what is a cam option for me that behaves pretty much like stock then?
also are my springs fine?

engineermike

I'm not saying that won't run "perfectly fine". The car will lope and make decent power, but there are way better cams out there that will make more power with a better idle than the Hot cam. If you're spending the money to see the small amount of power from upgrading to a T-trim, it doesn't make sense to get a cheapo cam that isn't very good. Something like the Comp Extreme 218/224 will make more power with a slightly better idle. Or, you could go with the Crane 210/224 and make slightly more power with a truly stock-style smooth idle.

And, yes, the V-1 T-trim will be much louder than a V-2 S-trim. But, know that it won't make any more boost when pullied the same. You have to swap out pullies to get more boost.

Mike

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

I think the HOT cam, if it's a good deal, will be a fine blower cam for your application. IIRC it's specs are 218/228 on a 112LSA, .525"/.525" lift with 1.6rr. It's not the most aggressive or modern cam out there, though. And the change from an S-trim to a T-trim can be dramatic - the S-trim is rated for a max of 680dwhp, and the different impeller and volute of the T-trim allows it to be rated at a max of 825fwhp, and 200cfm more with a tad more efficiency.

The S-trim max rpm rating is 50K, and the T-trim max rpm rating is 55K, so like Mike said, you'll probably need to spin it a bit tighter.

I maxed out my 383 V-2 S-trim at 7.2#, but when I switched to the T-trim I was able to get a max of 11.7# out of the same motor/cam/exhaust/intercooler combo.

Jim

94blownz281

iTrader: (12)

thanks for your input Jim. i just wish mine had more sound.... like iasked mike if i got your bearing in mine would it be louder? maybe who i bought it off of had the quite gears installed in it instead. i'm sure i'm way off cause they wouldn't do that.

94blownz281

iTrader: (12)

if i got new bearing i meant..

DeltaT

iTrader: (5)

It should say the model on the metal ID plate, V-1 S or something. I have the quiet ones, the V-2 gearbox. See, you can have 4 variations of the blowers we've been talking about:

V-1 Gearbox (Straight cut gears, more whiney and noisy): available in S-trim (680fwhp max rated) and T-trim (825fwhp max rated). The V-1 gearbox has a 3.45 ratio.

V-2 Gearbox (Helical Gears, less whiney, quieter but not silent): also available in S and T-trims with the same HP ratings as above. The V-2 gearbox has a 3.61:1 gear ratio.

I think you want louder, more whiney and more power, so you want the V-1 T-trim, right?

Jim

qqwqeqwrqwqtq

Yes, but only when the valve is closed when it will likely have no effect.

When the intake valve is opening pressurized air is flowing into the cylinder.
The cylinder will be equalizing to manifold pressure minus pressure drop through the port and across the valve.

As the intake valve is closing you are nearing the start of the compression stroke. As soon as the valve closes cylinder pressure immediately and greatly eclipses manifold pressure as the compression stroke begins.

The exhaust valve of a turbo motor on the other hand is a different story, as it's usually trying to close against somewhere around double intake pressure and this is happening during valve overlap when there is little cylinder pressure to offset the exhaust backpressure.