Help decide..Maggie or Procharger?
#1
Help decide..Maggie or Procharger?
My initial project plan was to build a healthy N/A 403 but have now considered the F/I route. At this point, this is where I'm at and my initial concerns:
Feel free to jump in and provide advice in my consideration the F/I route or ask me a few questions based on information I may not have provided. Thanks in advance...
- Have a 403 designed for 11:1 - I'd prefer lower compression (9 or 10:1?) to run more boost but not interested in running more than 10-12psi. Should I consider a piston change?
- Have a set of untouched L92s - any opportunities here to help my compression issue?
- Car designed for show/street. Must be aesthetically pleasing. The cool factor of a polished Maggie under there is HIGH...the Procharger with a FMIC will be the only option to avoid that air box . Anyone provide some pics of the plumbing routed for a front mount configuration?
- Have spoke with Ed at LM Speed - upcoming Maggie's designs for LS3/L92 heads are TBD. Thanks for info Ed...
- Waiting to hear back from Bob @ EPP on some ideas.
- Could anyone speculate or help me understand a pound for pound comparison if both units were to provide 10psi, who wins the HP war?
Feel free to jump in and provide advice in my consideration the F/I route or ask me a few questions based on information I may not have provided. Thanks in advance...
#2
i personally like the maggie. if you are going with a street car that is what i would suggest doing. if it were strip i would say procharger. if you do a search you will see that more people perfer the low end torque of the maggie. which helps with a killer street setup
#4
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I don't know how much material you can hog out of the L92 heads to lower compression, but if you're going to run high compression, you'll be better off with a Procharger. The cylinder pressure at low RPMs with a Magnacharger and 11:1CR would be pretty dangerous I would think. Also, like you said there is no Maggie kit out right now to work with the L92 heads, so who knows when you'd even be able to do this.
The other thing that bothered me about the LM Speed kit was that you are required to lower the K-member 3/4" towards the ground with some spacers. This reduces ground clearance as well as increases bumpsteer, especially so on an already-lowered vehicle.
The other thing that bothered me about the LM Speed kit was that you are required to lower the K-member 3/4" towards the ground with some spacers. This reduces ground clearance as well as increases bumpsteer, especially so on an already-lowered vehicle.
#6
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With your setup Procharger. D1SC. Maggie would be nice but like he said above, not gonna fit those heads. Could always get different heads though. Not a big deal. Maggie if you want torque in low end, it will make that thing scream. Procharger will be a bit more managable on the street and still make damn good power up top with that block and comp. EPP or some of these other guys who do alot of setups like this will chime in with whether or not that compression is a bit too much. Me I will try anything till it blows lol.
Lowering of the k member does nothing of the sort with this kit. All you are doing is spacing the body from the K member. The K member supports all of the parts connected to the steering, drivetrain, and engine mounts. The ONLY parts connected to the body is the upper shocks and the upper A arms. With a proper alignment it corrects that issue and is within tolerance of the GM specs. The body is raised. The cars clearance is uneffected. When you do a body lift on a 4x4 does the drivetrain and suspension get closer to the ground or change? Nope, same prinicple only a lot less lift . Not flaming or anything but i hear this alot and I have proof outside in my garage and these statements come from people who do not have or seen this kit installed.
PS: I also run lowered Eibachs with koni's.
Lowering of the k member does nothing of the sort with this kit. All you are doing is spacing the body from the K member. The K member supports all of the parts connected to the steering, drivetrain, and engine mounts. The ONLY parts connected to the body is the upper shocks and the upper A arms. With a proper alignment it corrects that issue and is within tolerance of the GM specs. The body is raised. The cars clearance is uneffected. When you do a body lift on a 4x4 does the drivetrain and suspension get closer to the ground or change? Nope, same prinicple only a lot less lift . Not flaming or anything but i hear this alot and I have proof outside in my garage and these statements come from people who do not have or seen this kit installed.
PS: I also run lowered Eibachs with koni's.
Last edited by bd mnky; 03-21-2008 at 04:47 PM.
#7
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Lowering of the k member does nothing of the sort with this kit. All you are doing is spacing the body from the K member. The K member supports all of the parts connected to the steering, drivetrain, and engine mounts. The ONLY parts connected to the body is the upper shocks and the upper A arms. With a proper alignment it corrects that issue and is within tolerance of the GM specs. The body is raised. The cars clearance is uneffected. When you do a body lift on a 4x4 does the drivetrain and suspension get closer to the ground or change? Nope, same prinicple only a lot less lift . Not flaming or anything but i hear this alot and I have proof outside in my garage and these statements come from people who do not have or seen this kit installed.
PS: I also run lowered Eibachs with koni's.
PS: I also run lowered Eibachs with koni's.
EDIT: Seeing as the springs control the body's ride height with the spring/shock being mounted to the shock towers, lowering the K-member 3/4" means that will be 3/4" less ground clearance there..
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#8
My initial project plan was to build a healthy N/A 403 but have now considered the F/I route. At this point, this is where I'm at and my initial concerns:
Feel free to jump in and provide advice in my consideration the F/I route or ask me a few questions based on information I may not have provided. Thanks in advance...
- Have a 403 designed for 11:1 - I'd prefer lower compression (9 or 10:1?) to run more boost but not interested in running more than 10-12psi. Should I consider a piston change?
- Have a set of untouched L92s - any opportunities here to help my compression issue?
- Car designed for show/street. Must be aesthetically pleasing. The cool factor of a polished Maggie under there is HIGH...the Procharger with a FMIC will be the only option to avoid that air box . Anyone provide some pics of the plumbing routed for a front mount configuration?
- Have spoke with Ed at LM Speed - upcoming Maggie's designs for LS3/L92 heads are TBD. Thanks for info Ed...
- Waiting to hear back from Bob @ EPP on some ideas.
- Could anyone speculate or help me understand a pound for pound comparison if both units were to provide 10psi, who wins the HP war?
Feel free to jump in and provide advice in my consideration the F/I route or ask me a few questions based on information I may not have provided. Thanks in advance...
Check out the torque at the low end on this LS2/402 that has an F-1A ProCharger.
Here is the way we routed the intercooler tubing on my Camaro. Bob
#9
Thanks for the quick response guys. Looks like the jury is still split though...to a point, I guess I expected it, lol.
The cylinder heads as BadMonkey pointed out are no biggie - I can change them to make the necessary adjustments. Though I'm not in a huge hurry - hell, the car has been apart for a few years so a few more months won't kill me - I would change the pistons too if it meant doing it right. I just want to make sure that before I get back into this thing, the combo makes sense.
Bob...I sent you a long winded email a few days back. If you have a few minutes, I like to hear back from you. Thanks! BTW, nice plumbing work on that beast...power numbers aren't too bad either ! Care to speculate power numbers using a D1SC and more convention intake (Fast or L76) and head combo?
The cylinder heads as BadMonkey pointed out are no biggie - I can change them to make the necessary adjustments. Though I'm not in a huge hurry - hell, the car has been apart for a few years so a few more months won't kill me - I would change the pistons too if it meant doing it right. I just want to make sure that before I get back into this thing, the combo makes sense.
Bob...I sent you a long winded email a few days back. If you have a few minutes, I like to hear back from you. Thanks! BTW, nice plumbing work on that beast...power numbers aren't too bad either ! Care to speculate power numbers using a D1SC and more convention intake (Fast or L76) and head combo?
#10
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Bob and his guys will steer you in the right direction. I only suggested a D1SC when you mentioned the 10lbs of boost with that compression. But really, if you are going to spend the money just do the F1A or go nuts with a F1R. I think the F1A though maybe enough for you. If you got the time and want to change the pistions I would, just to optimize your setup for F/I. The compression will limit you in the end, and you may want more boost later. If that bottom end and everything can support it, a F1 would blow your mind
#11
Bob and his guys will steer you in the right direction. I only suggested a D1SC when you mentioned the 10lbs of boost with that compression. But really, if you are going to spend the money just do the F1A or go nuts with a F1R. I think the F1A though maybe enough for you. If you got the time and want to change the pistions I would, just to optimize your setup for F/I. The compression will limit you in the end, and you may want more boost later. If that bottom end and everything can support it, a F1 would blow your mind
#13
Thanks for the quick response guys. Looks like the jury is still split though...to a point, I guess I expected it, lol.
The cylinder heads as BadMonkey pointed out are no biggie - I can change them to make the necessary adjustments. Though I'm not in a huge hurry - hell, the car has been apart for a few years so a few more months won't kill me - I would change the pistons too if it meant doing it right. I just want to make sure that before I get back into this thing, the combo makes sense.
Bob...I sent you a long winded email a few days back. If you have a few minutes, I like to hear back from you. Thanks! BTW, nice plumbing work on that beast...power numbers aren't too bad either ! Care to speculate power numbers using a D1SC and more convention intake (Fast or L76) and head combo?
The cylinder heads as BadMonkey pointed out are no biggie - I can change them to make the necessary adjustments. Though I'm not in a huge hurry - hell, the car has been apart for a few years so a few more months won't kill me - I would change the pistons too if it meant doing it right. I just want to make sure that before I get back into this thing, the combo makes sense.
Bob...I sent you a long winded email a few days back. If you have a few minutes, I like to hear back from you. Thanks! BTW, nice plumbing work on that beast...power numbers aren't too bad either ! Care to speculate power numbers using a D1SC and more convention intake (Fast or L76) and head combo?
We're going to add more boost to it once the engine gets some more miles on it.
This build is probably closer to what you're looking to do.
http://www.exoticperformanceplus.com...Car.php?car=40
It is basically a budget built using the factory crank and Patriot heads, nothing exotic. The D-1SC is maxed out though, it would be more efficient with an F-1A. The F-1A is basically the same size as the P and D series blower, it still has a 9.0" volute diameter. The inlet and outlet are the same size as the smaller blowers.
I'll dig through my e-mails for yours. Do give me a call when you get a chance next week. Thanks! Bob
#16
#17
Brent,
you may want to look into the TVS technology a little bit more as well. When we discussed it, it was upcoming, and several hurdles exsisted.
Now, It is available(it would require some custom work to fit an F-body) and I have found out some things that my help you.
Let me know if you're interested,
Ed
you may want to look into the TVS technology a little bit more as well. When we discussed it, it was upcoming, and several hurdles exsisted.
Now, It is available(it would require some custom work to fit an F-body) and I have found out some things that my help you.
Let me know if you're interested,
Ed
#19
#20