My APS TT dyno results & info
04-08-2008, 02:20 PM
#1
My APS TT dyno results & info I have a 99 formula A4. Last year I did a little work to it. Bolt ons such as headers, air lid, magnaflow...a 3600 vig stall, some tuning, and a 224 thunder racing cam. I though it moved out pretty good. It made around 340hp and ran the 1/8th in 7.59 @ 91 mph (11.95 @ 111mph in the 1/4th).
I wanted something more, and had never had a FI car before, so I decided to purchase the APS TT kit from down under.
It arrived in November '07:
I started installing it in January. I pulled the engine out to install the turbo kit...made it a little easier that way. I also wanted to install a new stealth cam, stock 317 heads (to lower compression) and change the oil pump & timing chain since I didn't do that the first time around - having the engine on a stand made this much easier.
To accomodate the TT kit I purchased a k-member from UMI. I had to clock the turbo minimally to make it clear. Other supporting modifications included 60lb injectors and a racetronix fuel system. This is my daily driver, so I decided to keep a full exhaust on it including high flow cats and a magnaflow. I've also got a cutout installed. Overall the car is very, very quiet.
I also added an e-Boost controller left over from our previously turbo'd TBSS. I installed it into one of the vents in the center console for easy access. I've purchased a dual pillar pod for my Scan gauge & wideband, which I will be installing shortly.
Overall I was impressed with the kit. It is very good quality workmanship. The instructions are very clear and concise. The fit is a little tight but we are dealing with an f-body here!
I wish I'd have paid attention to the wastegates before installing them. They came with 7lb springs, I only want to run around 5 lbs. I've purchased new springs, however the passenger side wastegate is wedged against the trans, it looks like a pain to get out now.
Currently the car is making 8lbs of boost. That's the most I plan to run on the stock shortblock. Ideally with the new springs I will push around 5-6lbs at the track. It is the fastest car I have built so far, and honestly it does scare me a bit! It does not take much to break the tires loose. I plan to make a few shakedown passes at the track to get used to it. It feels a whole lot different than a strong n/a car.
Here's what my car looks like now...I don't really plan to change anything about the way it looks. Boring, I know.
Here's how it turned out on the dyno. Run 1 is last year with the bolt ons/224 cam. Run 2 is the APS TT, 8 lbs. Run 3 is the same thing, but with the cutout open.
I plan to head out to the track as soon as I've installed the new wastegate springs. From there I should have my work cut out for me - I'm pretty sure I'll need to start modifying the suspension (all stock) and hit up some new drag radials to make the most out of this.
Thanks for reading & good luck with your builds....glad to finally fit in with this section of the board
I wanted something more, and had never had a FI car before, so I decided to purchase the APS TT kit from down under.
It arrived in November '07:
I started installing it in January. I pulled the engine out to install the turbo kit...made it a little easier that way. I also wanted to install a new stealth cam, stock 317 heads (to lower compression) and change the oil pump & timing chain since I didn't do that the first time around - having the engine on a stand made this much easier.
To accomodate the TT kit I purchased a k-member from UMI. I had to clock the turbo minimally to make it clear. Other supporting modifications included 60lb injectors and a racetronix fuel system. This is my daily driver, so I decided to keep a full exhaust on it including high flow cats and a magnaflow. I've also got a cutout installed. Overall the car is very, very quiet.
I also added an e-Boost controller left over from our previously turbo'd TBSS. I installed it into one of the vents in the center console for easy access. I've purchased a dual pillar pod for my Scan gauge & wideband, which I will be installing shortly.
Overall I was impressed with the kit. It is very good quality workmanship. The instructions are very clear and concise. The fit is a little tight but we are dealing with an f-body here!
I wish I'd have paid attention to the wastegates before installing them. They came with 7lb springs, I only want to run around 5 lbs. I've purchased new springs, however the passenger side wastegate is wedged against the trans, it looks like a pain to get out now.
Currently the car is making 8lbs of boost. That's the most I plan to run on the stock shortblock. Ideally with the new springs I will push around 5-6lbs at the track. It is the fastest car I have built so far, and honestly it does scare me a bit! It does not take much to break the tires loose. I plan to make a few shakedown passes at the track to get used to it. It feels a whole lot different than a strong n/a car.
Here's what my car looks like now...I don't really plan to change anything about the way it looks. Boring, I know.
Here's how it turned out on the dyno. Run 1 is last year with the bolt ons/224 cam. Run 2 is the APS TT, 8 lbs. Run 3 is the same thing, but with the cutout open.
I plan to head out to the track as soon as I've installed the new wastegate springs. From there I should have my work cut out for me - I'm pretty sure I'll need to start modifying the suspension (all stock) and hit up some new drag radials to make the most out of this.
Thanks for reading & good luck with your builds....glad to finally fit in with this section of the board
04-08-2008, 02:59 PM
#5
Wow nice! I was surprised to see your post, had no idea you were in the process of doin that install. I'm in the middle of a similar build, BUUTT I had to rebuild the bottomend in the process!
How does that converter like the boost? Does it stay tight or flash up pretty high when it comes on? The numbers are locked numbers I presume? Let us know how it does at the track on some tire!
How does that converter like the boost? Does it stay tight or flash up pretty high when it comes on? The numbers are locked numbers I presume? Let us know how it does at the track on some tire!
04-08-2008, 03:02 PM
#6
Nice to see another APS car done. And the cutout likely helps more because its FI car versus NA car. I also am using a cutout right now and b and b catback to keep things pretty quiet. I am hoping it don't sound raspy with no cats since the turbos should quiet things down too.
Looks like decent numbers for an auto especially and really think you should be fine at 8psi with your heads dropping compression a bit. Run alc/meth for extra insurance on pump gas and really don't think you need 5psi! Its your car and ok to be conservative but seems too conservative to me. The APS is set to work fine on stock motors. And as you said likely big pain to get that wastegate out of there now. You don't need to remove the whole gate to change springs. They just go under the hat if that is any easier. But again once you get used to this level of power it would be a shame to go back down.
Be interested to see what she gets at the track. Et street radials or similar are pretty much required for sure at this power level.Nittos aren't bad but can't touch et street radial numbers from my own personal experience at even less power levels and other guys at our track.
So curious is it really hard to take engine out the bottom in a garage with no overhead hoist. I am thinking to do it this way shortly on my car. Any tips or special tools I would need. I have some good floor jacks, low profile cherry picker and assortment of jack stands but they might not be high enough?
Just seems less chance of scratching up things by going thru the bottom.
Looks like decent numbers for an auto especially and really think you should be fine at 8psi with your heads dropping compression a bit. Run alc/meth for extra insurance on pump gas and really don't think you need 5psi! Its your car and ok to be conservative but seems too conservative to me. The APS is set to work fine on stock motors. And as you said likely big pain to get that wastegate out of there now. You don't need to remove the whole gate to change springs. They just go under the hat if that is any easier. But again once you get used to this level of power it would be a shame to go back down.
Be interested to see what she gets at the track. Et street radials or similar are pretty much required for sure at this power level.Nittos aren't bad but can't touch et street radial numbers from my own personal experience at even less power levels and other guys at our track.
So curious is it really hard to take engine out the bottom in a garage with no overhead hoist. I am thinking to do it this way shortly on my car. Any tips or special tools I would need. I have some good floor jacks, low profile cherry picker and assortment of jack stands but they might not be high enough?
Just seems less chance of scratching up things by going thru the bottom.
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04-08-2008, 03:36 PM
#9
Thanks for the comments guys!!
Ouch! Are you rebuilding the bottom end by choice or because something bad happened? I would like to have my short block last until next year at least, and from there go forged. I tried to do my current setup as safe as possible. My numbers are locked, yes.
I think it is a good converter with the boost. I was concerned it might be too big but I think it will work out well. It flashes to 3600 and then I'm gone
So it stays true to what Vig rates it at.
I will definitely update with track times. That's what I really love - the racing. The dyno'ing, not so much. I didn't even want to be there, lol. Can't stand hearing hours and hours of my work being wrung out on the dyno
Yeah I think I've realized how to change the spring, but I don't think I can get just the hat off on the passenger side. For one thing I can't even see/reach 2 of the bolts, and secondly even if I could, the hat has no where to go. Don't think it's possible to maneuver it out of there...so I'm going to just bite the bullet and try taking off the whole gate. I'll let you know how it goes.
I personally liked pulling it out the bottom better. Granted I have a lift which makes things 50x easier, but there are several people on this board who have done it by lifting the body up with a cherry picker.
I wrote a how-to when pulling the engine. It's pretty straightforward, but I thought it would be helpful to others for me to list bolt sizes, random things here and there and other obscure hints for getting it out the bottom quickly. You can check it out at http://www.keliente.com/engine.htm
Wow nice! I was surprised to see your post, had no idea you were in the process of doin that install. I'm in the middle of a similar build, BUUTT I had to rebuild the bottomend in the process!
How does that converter like the boost? Does it stay tight or flash up pretty high when it comes on? The numbers are locked numbers I presume? Let us know how it does at the track on some tire!
How does that converter like the boost? Does it stay tight or flash up pretty high when it comes on? The numbers are locked numbers I presume? Let us know how it does at the track on some tire!
I think it is a good converter with the boost. I was concerned it might be too big but I think it will work out well. It flashes to 3600 and then I'm gone
So it stays true to what Vig rates it at.I will definitely update with track times. That's what I really love - the racing. The dyno'ing, not so much. I didn't even want to be there, lol. Can't stand hearing hours and hours of my work being wrung out on the dyno
Looks like decent numbers for an auto especially and really think you should be fine at 8psi with your heads dropping compression a bit. Run alc/meth for extra insurance on pump gas and really don't think you need 5psi! Its your car and ok to be conservative but seems too conservative to me. The APS is set to work fine on stock motors. And as you said likely big pain to get that wastegate out of there now. You don't need to remove the whole gate to change springs. They just go under the hat if that is any easier. But again once you get used to this level of power it would be a shame to go back down.
So curious is it really hard to take engine out the bottom in a garage with no overhead hoist. I am thinking to do it this way shortly on my car. Any tips or special tools I would need. I have some good floor jacks, low profile cherry picker and assortment of jack stands but they might not be high enough?
Just seems less chance of scratching up things by going thru the bottom.
Just seems less chance of scratching up things by going thru the bottom.
I wrote a how-to when pulling the engine. It's pretty straightforward, but I thought it would be helpful to others for me to list bolt sizes, random things here and there and other obscure hints for getting it out the bottom quickly. You can check it out at http://www.keliente.com/engine.htm
04-08-2008, 04:19 PM
#11
Saw the car this past weekend. It is a very clean kit, although I am sure it was/is cramped.
you surely have a sleeper. I didn't get to hear it at all, although when you came by John(electron blue LT1 Z28) goes hey that car has a hairdryer on it...lol
Keep us updated.......with track numbers.... Enough dyno racing, lol
you surely have a sleeper. I didn't get to hear it at all, although when you came by John(electron blue LT1 Z28) goes hey that car has a hairdryer on it...lol
Keep us updated.......with track numbers.... Enough dyno racing, lol
04-08-2008, 05:13 PM
#13
i noticed you have the eboost and an a4. did you set up and run the lines for the eboost yet? If so, how did you get the fitting on the top of the pass side wg? Very nice!
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04-09-2008, 01:24 AM
#19
My car was tuned with the cutout open. It ran fine with it closed when driving around on the street but would barely make it through a complete pull because it was so rich. I've seen people gain 70hp on a conservative set-up so alot can be had with the cutout. I'm going with two so I can hear the turbo's spool up
