Turbo Cam question
05-08-2008, 09:25 AM
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Turbo Cam question What do you guys think is the best turbo cam. I'm looking at an engine with a Lunati Voodoo 60512 (Advertised Duration 282/288). Would this be bad news with a turbo? I would like to turbo the car, but maybe not until next year. Just looking for some feedback. Still is R&D, and I don't really know that much about LS1 cams with the turbos.
05-08-2008, 01:28 PM
#4
Ok..first what are the complete specs for the cam..
Secondly there are too many opinions as to the best turbo cam.Everyone has an idea about whats best. Some like reverse split, some normal split some no split.
Higher lift is generally better ,too high you will have to change out valve springs a lot more often. And may hit valve float. Proper springs of course are a must. Bigger lsa gives better idle and most turbo cams seem to be 115 lsa and up. But again you have guys arguing the lower lsa are fine too.
The other thing is most turbos make so much power its really a bit hard to tell the difference from the cam alone.. You really need a bunch of mag tests with same engine and different cams. That might finally resolve this issue.
Here is how I picked my cam. I looked on lingenfelter site. Felt they knew a few things about turbo cars. I found their gt7 is the main turbo cam used in pretty much all their builts from 346 even up to 408 etc. It has reasonable duration a normal split. It has fairly low lift so I went with 1.8 yella terras for a bit more still staying well under 600 and around 570 or so. It has a very high lsa for very stock like idle and should keep the boost in the cylinders. I didn't want lopey cam in this car.
So there you have it. A hundred guys and builders will give you a hundred different opinions most not really backed up with any independent dyno testing.
Also the lingenfelter gt7 is very similar to a corrresponding z06 cam.I got my gt7 cheap so went that route. A gm z06 cam could be a cheaper route. Course cams can look pretty identical and still have diferent lobe types and ramp rates.
05-07 ZO6 cam 210/230 .561/.557 –120.5 LSA
Lingenfelter GT7 208/230 .554/.546 –121CL
Secondly there are too many opinions as to the best turbo cam.Everyone has an idea about whats best. Some like reverse split, some normal split some no split.
Higher lift is generally better ,too high you will have to change out valve springs a lot more often. And may hit valve float. Proper springs of course are a must. Bigger lsa gives better idle and most turbo cams seem to be 115 lsa and up. But again you have guys arguing the lower lsa are fine too.
The other thing is most turbos make so much power its really a bit hard to tell the difference from the cam alone.. You really need a bunch of mag tests with same engine and different cams. That might finally resolve this issue.
Here is how I picked my cam. I looked on lingenfelter site. Felt they knew a few things about turbo cars. I found their gt7 is the main turbo cam used in pretty much all their builts from 346 even up to 408 etc. It has reasonable duration a normal split. It has fairly low lift so I went with 1.8 yella terras for a bit more still staying well under 600 and around 570 or so. It has a very high lsa for very stock like idle and should keep the boost in the cylinders. I didn't want lopey cam in this car.
So there you have it. A hundred guys and builders will give you a hundred different opinions most not really backed up with any independent dyno testing.
Also the lingenfelter gt7 is very similar to a corrresponding z06 cam.I got my gt7 cheap so went that route. A gm z06 cam could be a cheaper route. Course cams can look pretty identical and still have diferent lobe types and ramp rates.
05-07 ZO6 cam 210/230 .561/.557 –120.5 LSA
Lingenfelter GT7 208/230 .554/.546 –121CL
05-08-2008, 07:25 PM
#6
Yep, that's for sure.
Figure out the intended use of the car and the desired RPM range, then go from there.
My "best cam" that pulls to 7,200+ in my track suited build may very well annoy the next guy that spends most of his time lugging the engine at 1,800 on the street in OD with the A/C on...
Any cam will make power under boost, buy what gives you the manners you want.
Figure out the intended use of the car and the desired RPM range, then go from there.
My "best cam" that pulls to 7,200+ in my track suited build may very well annoy the next guy that spends most of his time lugging the engine at 1,800 on the street in OD with the A/C on...
Any cam will make power under boost, buy what gives you the manners you want.
05-08-2008, 10:16 PM
#7
Ok..first what are the complete specs for the cam..
Secondly there are too many opinions as to the best turbo cam.Everyone has an idea about whats best. Some like reverse split, some normal split some no split.
Higher lift is generally better ,too high you will have to change out valve springs a lot more often. And may hit valve float. Proper springs of course are a must. Bigger lsa gives better idle and most turbo cams seem to be 115 lsa and up. But again you have guys arguing the lower lsa are fine too.
The other thing is most turbos make so much power its really a bit hard to tell the difference from the cam alone.. You really need a bunch of mag tests with same engine and different cams. That might finally resolve this issue.
Here is how I picked my cam. I looked on lingenfelter site. Felt they knew a few things about turbo cars. I found their gt7 is the main turbo cam used in pretty much all their builts from 346 even up to 408 etc. It has reasonable duration a normal split. It has fairly low lift so I went with 1.8 yella terras for a bit more still staying well under 600 and around 570 or so. It has a very high lsa for very stock like idle and should keep the boost in the cylinders. I didn't want lopey cam in this car.
So there you have it. A hundred guys and builders will give you a hundred different opinions most not really backed up with any independent dyno testing.
Also the lingenfelter gt7 is very similar to a corrresponding z06 cam.I got my gt7 cheap so went that route. A gm z06 cam could be a cheaper route. Course cams can look pretty identical and still have diferent lobe types and ramp rates.
05-07 ZO6 cam 210/230 .561/.557 –120.5 LSA
Lingenfelter GT7 208/230 .554/.546 –121CL
Secondly there are too many opinions as to the best turbo cam.Everyone has an idea about whats best. Some like reverse split, some normal split some no split.
Higher lift is generally better ,too high you will have to change out valve springs a lot more often. And may hit valve float. Proper springs of course are a must. Bigger lsa gives better idle and most turbo cams seem to be 115 lsa and up. But again you have guys arguing the lower lsa are fine too.
The other thing is most turbos make so much power its really a bit hard to tell the difference from the cam alone.. You really need a bunch of mag tests with same engine and different cams. That might finally resolve this issue.
Here is how I picked my cam. I looked on lingenfelter site. Felt they knew a few things about turbo cars. I found their gt7 is the main turbo cam used in pretty much all their builts from 346 even up to 408 etc. It has reasonable duration a normal split. It has fairly low lift so I went with 1.8 yella terras for a bit more still staying well under 600 and around 570 or so. It has a very high lsa for very stock like idle and should keep the boost in the cylinders. I didn't want lopey cam in this car.
So there you have it. A hundred guys and builders will give you a hundred different opinions most not really backed up with any independent dyno testing.
Also the lingenfelter gt7 is very similar to a corrresponding z06 cam.I got my gt7 cheap so went that route. A gm z06 cam could be a cheaper route. Course cams can look pretty identical and still have diferent lobe types and ramp rates.
05-07 ZO6 cam 210/230 .561/.557 –120.5 LSA
Lingenfelter GT7 208/230 .554/.546 –121CL
No disrespect but you have to agree with me, you've probably posted that exact same info above more than all the other posts put together, LOL
To the OP, yes do a search. I alone spent weeks researching and talking to various shops, people, etc on this subject. So many variables involved. I thought in my head which would be the best for my application than got comp to spec me one. Guess what it was pretty much right on for the duration and lsa with a hair more lift than I was thinking, more or less really close. I reccommend getting a well known shop to spec you one for your application and for your liking. It will make gobs of power either way but it might not be your thinking of a 'cam' for your setup.
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05-08-2008, 10:22 PM
#8
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yo the 282/288 cam as advertized is at .000 lift. Thats my cam, whitch is tsp's 233/239, .598/.603 lift, (mines on a 112 lsa) but i dont run boost. I dont know anything about turbo cams but i just recodnized the numbers and decided to chime in.
05-08-2008, 10:40 PM
#9
Well Websys21 like you just giving an opinion. There seems to be no definitive answer to the question. So it is pretty much a matter of picking a cam to ones taste sound in the knowledge that the turbo will do its thing anyway and compensate to a large extent for the "wrong" cam or "wrong" heads. That said I know one thing from my turbo talons .Going up to more agressive lifts and duration does give more power on boost.
Think thats a given. But as said go too high on lift and you start needing to swap out valve springs maybe every 20,000 miles. A job that is not pleasant in fourth gen f bodies. And you risk valve float under boost if you don't go to strong enough springs.
So person has to decide how much lift he can live with. Same as lsa. Not everyone wants lopey cams. I have a really lopey one on my 80ta with 400 pontiac swapped in it. I don't want lopey like that in my 99 ta. Duration well guess same deal. Go crazy on it and you might run into idle issues.
You can search this subject forever and you will keep getting all the different opinions.
Reverse split, normal split, high lsa,low lsa.
As I said we need high tech perf mag to run like 20 cams all with variations and see what effects they get on the same identical engine. Course still can argue that on a different combo with different turbo, different heads maybe different displacement whatever that the results would have come out different.
I guess see what I get with my combo to see how the gt7 does in there. Might be next year though before have that data for you.
Till then going to keep posting the same old stuff until someone gives me hard data to prove their theories.
Think thats a given. But as said go too high on lift and you start needing to swap out valve springs maybe every 20,000 miles. A job that is not pleasant in fourth gen f bodies. And you risk valve float under boost if you don't go to strong enough springs.
So person has to decide how much lift he can live with. Same as lsa. Not everyone wants lopey cams. I have a really lopey one on my 80ta with 400 pontiac swapped in it. I don't want lopey like that in my 99 ta. Duration well guess same deal. Go crazy on it and you might run into idle issues.
You can search this subject forever and you will keep getting all the different opinions.
Reverse split, normal split, high lsa,low lsa.
As I said we need high tech perf mag to run like 20 cams all with variations and see what effects they get on the same identical engine. Course still can argue that on a different combo with different turbo, different heads maybe different displacement whatever that the results would have come out different.
I guess see what I get with my combo to see how the gt7 does in there. Might be next year though before have that data for you.
Till then going to keep posting the same old stuff until someone gives me hard data to prove their theories.