taws6m6

iTrader: (37)

Before its said, I did a search. I have to 255 walbros to install. I have seen threads saying its ok to run one hot wire kit on 2 pumps as long as the gauge wire is sufficient. My question is, can I just but the regular ol hot wire kit I see sponsors selling? Or do I need a different kit with thicker wire? I plan on running the 2nd pump off a hobbs switch if this makes a difference on whether or not I will in fact need 2 kits. Or if a sponsor sold a kit including everything I need like the hobbs and hot wire kit for 2 pumps to do exactly what I want to do that would be great. Thanks

taws6m6

iTrader: (37)

^^^^^

Lonnies Performance

iTrader: (16)

I sell a kit, fully assembled & tested with a hobbs switch & dual hotwires.

Please call if you would like to discuss in more detail.

taws6m6

iTrader: (37)

I've already got the pumps. Just trying to figure out what to do about the hot wire kit. Judging by your response I need 2. But why do I see some guys running 1? If I don't have to run 2 kits I don't want to

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

I wired both my pumps together and then just got a 30 amp relay from autozone and ran them both off that, the wire going to the relay went directly to the battery and the existing power wire runs the relay. I used 10 gauge wire for everything. I looked up the "hot wire kit". I sure wouldnt pay all that for a $4 relay and some wires.
Heres my dual 255 setup with a autozone relay. Works just fine.

Nasty N8

iTrader: (33)

You need heavy gauge wire 8gauge or bigger and each pump will need its own 30amp relay. DO NOT run them both at once they will produce too much heat over heating fuel killing the pumps and causing running issues. One hotwire kit will not work its designed for one pump only.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

Wow, that picture is worth a thousand words. Personally, I would hesitate to have unshielded 20 Amps of current zip-tied next to my fuel supply, but that's just me.

taws6m6, You need wiring capable of carrying a consistent 10 Amps of current per pump. They are actually close to 9 Amps, depending on your voltage, but you want a safety margin. You can Google for the gauge required: A safe way is 2 runs of 10 gauge (12 gauge being marginal) or one run of 6 gauge (8 gauge being marginal). These numbers take into consideration that you really want 2% or less voltage drop end-to-end, and your total length will be 10-12 ft, depending on how you route it and where your battery is located.
If you plan on activating the second pump via a switch, such as the Hobbs you mentioned, you will need 2 relays; one for the first pump activated by existing wiring, and a second for the Hobbs switch activation. I strongly suggest not using factory wiring for power to either pump, it is marginal for the factory pump and inadequate for a high-power pump like the Walbro. IIRC, it is 16 gauge.
I personally run the Racetronix harness for my first pump, and found it an excellent value with high quality weatherproof components.

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

The wires coming from the pumps themselves are plain regular wire INSIDE the gas tank stock....so not sure what your paranoid about. Shielded wire is to block magnetic interference that might interfere w/ electronics, nothing to do with protecting it from fuel....And the wires coming from each pump both together dont add up to 10 gauge.



Im not sure where you came up with this.....10 gauge wire is more than sufficient to run both pumps. Both running together wont even pop the 20 amp fuse I have on it (high side of relay). If it were drawing more then 20 amps.....the fuse would blow. 1 - 30 amp relay seems to work fine. Both run all the time. Havnt had an issue yet. When the 20 amp fuse blows i'll know that there is more than 20 amps required by the pumps.....they will draw what they need regardless of the wire size....too small of wire will then heat up because the the amps traveling through it....

You dont need to double the wire, electricity does not function like flowing fluid.

taws6m6

iTrader: (37)

What about your 2nd pump? Another racetronix harness? I am just looking for something as close to plug and play for hooking all this stuff up. I bought a dual pump kit with the y fitting and some hoses a while back and am just getting around to where I want to install it. I just never bought any harnesses. I have never messed with any fuel stuff before. Just looking for convenience, saftey and ease of installation above all with this install. Thanks

elias_799

iTrader: (8)

for those of us that already have a single racetronix 255 pump with a hotwire kit, can i just buy another racetronix pump and another hotwire kit and make it work ?

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

Substitute the word "shielded" for "covered". Let me come over with a screw driver, and I will show you where the spark can come from outside your tank.
It was easy to come up with the number. Use a AWG calculator, easily available on the web, such as this one: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm Go to the bottom to the calculator, enter the following parameters:
Copper wire
Wire Size 10 AWG
Voltage 12 VDC
length !0 ft (too short, probably, but get in the ballpark)
Load in Amps 10 (use a larger number than you expect, to give yourself a bit of margin)
You want a 2% or less voltage drop, standard Electrical Engineering values, which is what you get with 10 gauge AWG.
Research how much current a Walbro pump draws (it's over 8 amps, but not 9, so your fuse is adequate). Now enter in your best values, which could be as low as 17 Amps, you have a voltage drop of right at 3%, 50% larger than the goal.
It's your vehicle, do as you wish. But a wise person would also observe what the professionals do (such as Racetronix, Lonnie's Performance, Nasty N8, etc.).
And yes, electricity is like a fluid, it is a flow of electrons. http://www.school-for-champions.com/science/dc.htm

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

First, the overall task is not complex, but neither is it just plug-n-play like the professional kits. Do it incorrectly, and you could end up with a blown engine or a burning vehicle. If you can afford it, buy the professional kit.
taws6m6, you sound like you have the fuel plumbing items already. All you need is a Bosch relay circuit, GFGI. All you have to be concerned with is the placement of the Hobbs trigger and the relay. My Hobbs switch is in my charge pipe, my relay is protected.
elias_799, you could make it work, but it would be simpler and easier (IMHO) to build your own if you are so inclined. The sticky at the top of this section, though vague on specifics, is a good starting point.
My personal preference would be for someone to offer a supplemental kit for those who already have the Racetronix kit, but what do I know.

taws6m6

iTrader: (37)

Looks like I will just pick up 2 kits then

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

It is gas and oil resistant wire. And inside is all sealed w/ heat shrink tubing. Sparks outside the tank wont do anything the gas tank is sealed.

And I wouldnt put so much faith in that website calculator. Its pretty generic...rated way high to probably cover the person *** that made it.

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/am...uge-d_730.html
Here it says that a 15ft run of 10 ga. wire is good for 20 amps. So if its 17 amps like you say... What is wrong with one 10ga wire? And its actually only probably 11-12 feet long. Theres a bunch of websites that all say the same thing.

This calculator said I need 10 ga. up to 20 amps running 12 feet.
http://beta.circuitwizard.bluesea.com/#

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

All calculators are generiic, including yours. I merely selected the first one I found. I am sure the professionals just pulled that number out of the blue also.
As I said before, it's your car, do as you wish.
I wish you the very best of luck.

Nasty N8

iTrader: (33)

OK each pump is capable of 9-10amps at 12 volts...oh and your car runs 14volts when running....oh and on initial startup of an electric motor draws alot more, length, connections....lots of variables to worry about. Stock 16ga wire on a stock pump drawing 4-5amps melts the connectors from over heating. I would say 10ga wire and 30amp relay each pump is pretty safe.

Nasty N8

iTrader: (33)

#1 reason everyone complains about Walbro pump failure-OVERHEATING
#2 Reason- insufficient voltage

Lonnies Performance

iTrader: (16)

To clarify, the wire in the tank is not regular wire, nor is "fuel resistant" wiring is not meant for direct submersion. There is a difference.

pwrtrip75

iTrader: (8)

I meant "regular" as in non-sheilded. I think they thought that sheilded wire was for fuel resistant. The pump connector is not sealed from fuel. The other person sounded as if it were a concern that the fuel would come in contact with a live wire and cause problems.... it does all the time and really isnt a concern, 12v DC is not going to create any kind of spark shorting out through fuel, its like this from the factory.


And with the higher voltage it would actually draw less amperage. Thank you for clarifying this.

The Fugitive

iTrader: (6)

okay so what kind of wire would you get to run in the fuel tank??