Need FP accordian hose for 1998 Z28
#1
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Need FP accordian hose for 1998 Z28
Car had been getting harder to start, took lots of cranking. Tested pressure, went up to 60ish, then dropped steadily down to 10 within a minute of turning key off. Not an injector, research said maybe FP or FPR or loose/bad hose in tank. Figured I'd have to do the trap door either way, so might as well have a look.
Everything looked good inside, figured pump. Till I noticed that all the assy was kind of dry, except for the hose from the FP to the metal line. Close inspection with my super bright LED flashlight showed a small pin hole caused by the FPR clip ear. It had been installed with the ears down, I guess over time clip moved over a bit or hose relaxed... hole resulted.
AZ, etc, did not have, don't want to use regular hose cause it has to flex as assy is compressed on install, regular hose might also decompose over time. Put a temp patch over it with a piece of bike inner tube and a hose clamp. Will keep < 1/2 tank to prevent immersion of the patch.
Do dealerships stock this as a separate item? Any sponsors sell this accordion hose? Looks to be 5/16", 12" long. TIA
.
Everything looked good inside, figured pump. Till I noticed that all the assy was kind of dry, except for the hose from the FP to the metal line. Close inspection with my super bright LED flashlight showed a small pin hole caused by the FPR clip ear. It had been installed with the ears down, I guess over time clip moved over a bit or hose relaxed... hole resulted.
AZ, etc, did not have, don't want to use regular hose cause it has to flex as assy is compressed on install, regular hose might also decompose over time. Put a temp patch over it with a piece of bike inner tube and a hose clamp. Will keep < 1/2 tank to prevent immersion of the patch.
Do dealerships stock this as a separate item? Any sponsors sell this accordion hose? Looks to be 5/16", 12" long. TIA
.
Last edited by angel71rs; 12-12-2009 at 06:46 PM.
#2
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Searching the net, found only this place that has accordion flexihose, line, tube, hose, whatever it's called, that might work:
http://www.autoperformanceengineerin...html/kits.html
Ordered both the 8" and 15", will post for reference if either/both/none will work after I get them, for future reference.
http://www.autoperformanceengineerin...html/kits.html
Ordered both the 8" and 15", will post for reference if either/both/none will work after I get them, for future reference.
#3
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Searching the net, found only this place that has accordion flexihose, line, tube, hose, whatever it's called, that might work:
http://www.autoperformanceengineerin...html/kits.html
Ordered both the 8" and 15", will post for reference if either/both/none will work after I get them, for future reference.
http://www.autoperformanceengineerin...html/kits.html
Ordered both the 8" and 15", will post for reference if either/both/none will work after I get them, for future reference.
#4
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Well, the deed is done, and it sucked.
APE came thru, put my package in the mail Monday, so I had it in plenty of time to do it Saturday. Getting the assy out was easy since I had already done the trap door. Turns out the 15" was the correct size due to the lazy loop it takes on install. The 8" would have worked too, but would have had a couple of sharper turns in it on install. Kind of like an S that might have kinked over time, so went with the 15" so I could reproduce the lazy loop the factory used.
Used a razor blade to remove old flex tube, cake. But getting the new tube on was an incredible sonovabitch! I could hardly start it onto the tips, let alone get it over the barbs. Long story short, I had to use the handle of some slip joint pliers as a mandrel to stretch out the tips.
Pliers handle was slightly larger than ID of tube tips. So I heated handle till it was slightly hot, then heated a tube tip directly, then I'd force the handle in and use it to rotate stretch the tip. Then I'd force it onto the barb I'd prepared with some silicone grease ahead of time. If I could see I wasn't going to get it all the way on, I'd have to pull it out quick, cause as the plastic cooled it would immediately start to shrink/lock in place.
Repeated tries, finally got it installed on both barbs. I got the one to the outlet pipe on 1st, then I put the loop in it, marked the pump and tube with a marker as to where the tube tip had to end up for the loop to form correctly. Had to do that cause when I installed on outlet pipe, the plastic cooled and locked itself into place, no way would I be able to rotate the other tip once I had it on the pump to form a loop. Once it was on, that was it, so the magic marker made sure I installed correctly.
If I had it to do over again, I'd use SAE J30R10 5/16" rubber hose, also sold by APE. Just to avoid the installation hassle of the stock type flex hose. I used hose clamps on the flex tube anyway as insurance. My only concern there would be to get it the right length so it would not kink/close off when assy compressed when reinstalled back in tank.
If anyone knows an easier way to install that flex tube, please post up for anyone that might run across the task in the future.
APE came thru, put my package in the mail Monday, so I had it in plenty of time to do it Saturday. Getting the assy out was easy since I had already done the trap door. Turns out the 15" was the correct size due to the lazy loop it takes on install. The 8" would have worked too, but would have had a couple of sharper turns in it on install. Kind of like an S that might have kinked over time, so went with the 15" so I could reproduce the lazy loop the factory used.
Used a razor blade to remove old flex tube, cake. But getting the new tube on was an incredible sonovabitch! I could hardly start it onto the tips, let alone get it over the barbs. Long story short, I had to use the handle of some slip joint pliers as a mandrel to stretch out the tips.
Pliers handle was slightly larger than ID of tube tips. So I heated handle till it was slightly hot, then heated a tube tip directly, then I'd force the handle in and use it to rotate stretch the tip. Then I'd force it onto the barb I'd prepared with some silicone grease ahead of time. If I could see I wasn't going to get it all the way on, I'd have to pull it out quick, cause as the plastic cooled it would immediately start to shrink/lock in place.
Repeated tries, finally got it installed on both barbs. I got the one to the outlet pipe on 1st, then I put the loop in it, marked the pump and tube with a marker as to where the tube tip had to end up for the loop to form correctly. Had to do that cause when I installed on outlet pipe, the plastic cooled and locked itself into place, no way would I be able to rotate the other tip once I had it on the pump to form a loop. Once it was on, that was it, so the magic marker made sure I installed correctly.
If I had it to do over again, I'd use SAE J30R10 5/16" rubber hose, also sold by APE. Just to avoid the installation hassle of the stock type flex hose. I used hose clamps on the flex tube anyway as insurance. My only concern there would be to get it the right length so it would not kink/close off when assy compressed when reinstalled back in tank.
If anyone knows an easier way to install that flex tube, please post up for anyone that might run across the task in the future.
#6
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
Whatever plastic they used is tough, despite it's flimsy looking appearance. No wonder it can live in the tank for years and take 60 psi. Good luck with your project.