Fueling & Injection Fuel Pumps | Injectors | Rails | Regulators | Tanks

1987 Elco LS1/T56 swap

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Old 10-19-2010, 04:25 PM
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Default 1987 Elco LS1/T56 swap

Hey guys new to the forum. I have an '87 Chevy El Camino that I am converting from a lowly 305 with an auto to an LS1/T56 combo. The swap is already done, what's left as you can see from my sig, is fuel, cooling and gauges, a little electrical too. Now I'd like to knock out the fuel system myself as opposed to having someone else do it so here's what I got. I took my original tank and had it sumped with 2 -08AN fittings in the rear, A1000 pump and regulator, FAST rails, and all braided lines. The guy I had weld the tank up just pinched the old pump pickup tubes(that are attached to the fuel level sender unit) together. So I guess I'm kinda stuck as where to even start. I honestly don't really know how to properly assemble braided lines(properly being the operative word here). I know the pump is best below the tank and close to the exit of the tank as this pump pulls like a freight train. Do you recommend I use both -08AN fittings as supply lines to the A1000(it has -10AN) so as to be sure its never starved for fuel. And also before I replace the tank underneath the car what should I do about a return line and venting.
Thanks in advance for the help guys!
Old 10-20-2010, 12:10 PM
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ok here are some pictures, one is top side of the LS1 with my FAST rails, the other 2 are my gas tank that i had modified, the exits are both -08AN, and on the top of the tank is how it was stock
Attached Thumbnails 1987 Elco LS1/T56 swap-p1010643.jpg   1987 Elco LS1/T56 swap-p1010647.jpg   1987 Elco LS1/T56 swap-p1010648.jpg  
Old 10-20-2010, 01:28 PM
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Alright found a kit from Koul Tools for assembly of the steel braided lines and fittings, and some good online instructions so I think I'm covered there. My question still remains about the gas tank however, what to do with the hoses poking out the top of it and what to do about a vent, and should I use both fittings on the sump for supply to my pump or should I do one return and one for supply. I don't wanna starve my fuel pump though.
Old 10-20-2010, 07:10 PM
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You really should be using a sump set-up for fuel injection, otherwise you run the risk of fuel starvation when the tank is below 1/2 fulland fuel is sloshing due to turns, hills, etc. Best bet for return line would be to use the C5 in-line fuel filter/regulator set-up.
Old 10-20-2010, 08:13 PM
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I did drop sump the fuel tank, had it welded up(professionally), and I believe he also baffled it. So upon WOT all the fuel will be thrust backward in the tank so the lines won't be starved. What I'm concerned about are all the unnecessary fittings on the top(from the original stock setup) as I don't know what to do with them. Also I don't know if I should use on of the sump's -08AN fittings to feed to pump(A1000 it has -10AN) or if I should use both fittings on the sump as supply lines. Also I don't know where/what to do about a return line at all. My regulator also from the A1000 lineup from Aeromotive, has 2 -10AN inlet ports and one -06AN outlet port. Also placement of components I don't know what to do about that. I know the pump needs to be low and as close to the supply as possible but running up to the rails(FAST) where does the regulator go and should I split the supply from the pump and supply each rail individually?
Thanks
Old 10-21-2010, 05:00 PM
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I did drop sump the fuel tank, had it welded up (professionally)
Perfect!
What I'm concerned about are all the unnecessary fittings on the top(from the original stock setup) as I don't know what to do with them.
Just plug them since they won't be used if the fittings up front are plumbed to the in-tank pump. It sounds like you just have new fuel lines plumbed to the tank...correct? I assume your pump is an external pump? What do the direction say about plumbing to it? I am not familiar with this pump.

As I mentioned, if you use the C5 fuel/regulator, this will also actual as your fuel regulator so you won't need another one.

should I split the supply from the pump and supply each rail individually?
No, supply one side and then use a cross-over tube to feed the other side.
Old 10-21-2010, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by John B
Just plug them since they won't be used if the fittings up front are plumbed to the in-tank pump. It sounds like you just have new fuel lines plumbed to the tank...correct? I assume your pump is an external pump? What do the direction say about plumbing to it? I am not familiar with this pump.

As I mentioned, if you use the C5 fuel/regulator, this will also actual as your fuel regulator so you won't need another one.
Here is a link to the fuel pump I purchased.
http://aeromotiveinc.com/products-pa...000-fuel-pump/
Yes I'll be using the pump externally. The instructions say to use -10AN size high pressure fuel lines. I got all brand new steel braided sets, with brand new AN fittings. The pumps fittings are both -10AN I was unable to find a drop sump that was -10AN so the one I got is -08AN. I am concerned about starving the pump if I only feed the pump with one of my two available -08AN on the sump. The instructions also say to use a Y-block right before the rails and feed each one independently as the regulator I got has 2 inlet ports.
Thanks for the help
Old 10-21-2010, 08:48 PM
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It wouldve been easier to use a tank and sending unit from a 4.3 tbi Elco. But you should get the 99+ Corvette fuel filter/ regulator. You're going to need some other fittings to make it work but you'll be able to feed the pump from one of the sump fittings and then the other side of the pump will run into the Vette ffr input side which will require a reducer and compression fitting(size you'll need to figure out). Then you're going to need another reducer and compression fitting coming off the Vette ffr return side and running to the other sump fitting on the tank. Last will be yet another fitting and coupler along with the braided line coming off the Vette ffr output side that will run the fuel to the engines fuel rails. Hope this helps.
Old 10-21-2010, 09:18 PM
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I wasn't really looking forward to having to buy anymore parts. I got the ones I did because while they may be super overkill for a stock engine, the car won't remain stock for too long. Looking at forced induction eventually. I was looking to the future went I went and made my purchases. So anyway here is what I got:
Fuel Pump: Aeromotive A1000

Regulator: Aeromotive A1000 Injected Bypass Regulator

Rails: FAST LSX Billet Fuel Rails

Along with appropriate pre-pump(100 micron) and post-pump(10 micron) fuel filters and steel braided lines with AN fittings from front to back. You guys got lots of great information and I'm very greatful but I wasn't wanting to have to buy more parts.
Thanks for the help thus far
Old 10-25-2010, 10:48 AM
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I agree with others that you would be better off with a stock tank from a fuel injected El Camino. They are baffled correctly and designed for an intank pump. For the pump I would use the Bosch 044. Great pump that can go the distance down the road with forced induction up to just over 700/ wheels. The A1000 pump is no good for forced induction LS motors due to the pressure they require. The flow rate drops off drastically when the pressure gets to 70+ psi as the boosted engines will require.


just my $.02
Old 10-26-2010, 03:53 AM
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Ok found a tank from the El Camino Store for $260 + shipping, the sending unit from everything I have found is said to be discontinued I did happen to find some from oehq.com which apparently specializes in ford and gm oe direct parts....not sure how they got the pump though as other sites have said if gm discontinues it they did as well. so the sending unit goes for $330, and the bosch 044 goes for $220, i didnt even check into the walbro 255. i should have checked into the forums before i dropped all the money on parts. if i did go this route, i assume all my braided lines and beautiful AN fittings would be incompatible and I would need new ones. and then what about my rails?
thanks for the help guys i just need to get the beast running so i can see what this ls/elco combo is made of!
Old 10-26-2010, 06:46 PM
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Find a used tank from a 4.3TBI vehicle and you'll get the sending unit with it. Then just add the Bosch or Walbro and you'll be set for around $400 total.
Old 10-26-2010, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by John B
Find a used tank from a 4.3TBI vehicle and you'll get the sending unit with it. Then just add the Bosch or Walbro and you'll be set for around $400 total.
yea i'm gonna try and do that but what about my lines/fittings are they usable?
Old 10-26-2010, 08:17 PM
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You can use all of your braided lines and fuel rails....you'll just need to splice into the TBI lines at the tank! And by using the C5 fuel filter/regulator you won't need a separate regulator either!
Old 10-27-2010, 02:07 PM
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Default Aeromotive Fuel System; Okay with LS engine?

D.,

My name is Brett. I'm the Senior Tech at Aeromotive and I received your email request for help with your Aeromotive Fuel System. You asked that I post my response here on LS1 Tech forum, for the benefit of the members with similar questions and those involved in trying to help you here.

I can see where you have some frustration and confusion, there are a lot of well meaning members on the board here, all giving you workable advise, albeit each person from their own perspective.

First, let me say that what you have in the way of Aeromotive components are perfectly suitable for your intended use. There are many possible ways to setup a fuel system, some more workable than others, but there is nothing about the Aeromotive components that you have purchased that won't give you excellent results, though the tank/sump will require some attention to properly feed the pump.

There are a several posts in this thread that I'd like to address in some detail, however I'm not going to get too carried away in this first post (I don't know, this is looking pretty windy as I review... :~). I will try to flush out some details in future posts, time permitting. One thing I do have to address in brief here, and I'll substantiate this in more detail later if needed, is with respect to the A1000 not being able to support a LS engine with forced induction due to the higher pressure requirements of this engine. It was implied specifically that a Bosch 044 pump is somehow better for this application than an A1000 (i.e. do a better job for an LS1 forced induction) at these pressures. This is simply incorrect.

A current A1000 fuel pump will outflow a Bosch 044 or equivalent pump at 13.5 Volts and any pressure from 0-Bar up to 7-Bar, 101 PSI. That is not to take anything away from the Bosch 044, it's an outstanding fuel pump in its own right, however in a comparable, usable range of pressure. To put it simply, the Bosch 044 cannot compete with a current A1000, one-on-one.

The one concern I have about your proposed fuel system is the sump. You mentioned that the installation of the sump included some internal baffling in the tank, above and beyond what the sump itself creates. That will be important to retain good drivability at lower fuel tank levels, something the Aeromotive sump P/N 18650 does automatically. The biggest concern is the outlet port size, which appears to be 3/8" NPT, with a corresponding adapter to AN-08. Though you could purchase a 3/8" NPT to AN-10 adapter, it would be a choke on the port side of the fitting (i.e. too small on the ID on the side that threads into the sump).

I would suggest you have a 1/2" NPT female weld bung installed into the sump, possibly in place of one of the 3/8" NPT bungs, or in between them if room allows. From here a 1/2" NPT to AN-10 adapter will allow you to run the AN-10 line from the sump to the pump and allowing unrestricted flow.

You'll want to fit a return bung, 3/8" NPT would be fine here, in the top of the tank, or in the side near the top. You don't want to return into the sump, right next to the fuel pump pickup point, unless a baffle wall is in place to separate the two flows. Otherwise, you'll have a "toilet bowl" flow situation in the sump, which will cause problems for fuel pickup. That being said, if the tank is really internally baffled, you do want to direct the return flow into the trap or baffled pickup area. This needs to happen in a way that doesn't upset the flow into the pump but such that the return flow is able to keep the reservoir full. For those contemplating sumping your own tank, this is another aspect of the Aeromotive Baffled Sump P/N 18650 that is integral to the design.

You asked a question regarding tank vent; you want to setup a positive vent in the top of the tank. I would suggest you use AN-08 or 1/2" line for this. It's very important that the vent be in the highest part of the tank, lest you have fuel leaking out of it when the tank is full and to ensure air can enter the tank during WOT, high load engine operation.

As for the overall plumbing approach; Run AN-10 to the pump, through the proper pre-filter P/N 12304, and then out through a finer filter if possible such as P/N 12301 or 12335. Continue to the engine with AN-08 up to the Y-block. From the Y-block run AN-06 to the rails, then come out AN-06 into the regulator side ports, one line from each rail. From the bottom port of the regulator run your return back to the return port in the tank. It's that simple.

Note: I see where several suggestions have been made to incorporate the Corvette style filter/regulator into your fuel system. Though a unique piece of fuel system equipment, and popular with those transplanting EFI engines into formerly carbureted chassis, it is itself a significant compromise to creating a dynamic fuel flow to the injector/fuel rail assembly. It is not compatible with the flow rate produced by an A1000 fuel pump either.

I hope this helps clear things up, please feel free to contact me directly at Aeromotive with any questions, either via email at tech@aeromotiveinc.com or by phone at 913-647-7300, ext. 109.



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