PRAY HRD

iTrader: (119)

just wondering if the socks are all that's needed or if it's recommended that i run an inline filter along with it.

thanks

Mr. Fuel Pump

YES! you must run an external inline filter in addition to the pre-pump socks. The filter socks are high micron (30-100) filters, you need lower micron after the pump to protect the injectors/engine fully

PRAY HRD

iTrader: (119)

i was thinking that too but when i look in the jegs magazines, i see all their filters that are capable of 1000hp have 100 micron filters, thus implying the 10 micron would be a restriction?

please correct me if i'm wrong about this.

stevieturbo

Ive been using a single Aeromotive 100mic filter on my car for years, that's mounted before the pumps.

Ive never had an issue.

And most quality filters will be fine for 1k even with their 10/40mic elements especially when they are on the pressure side.

PRAY HRD

iTrader: (119)

yea i picked up a shell of one and plan on running the 100 micron stainless one. better to be safe.

Mr. Fuel Pump

Lots of contamination can get past a 100micron pre-pump filter, not the biggest deal-just the pump to worry about, however you need a post pump filter, 10-30micron, to protect the engine. Additionally, an electric fuel pump is constantly shedding carbon and/or copper particles, not good if you don't have a post pump filter to catch it....

PRAY HRD

iTrader: (119)

do you believe a 10 micron filter element can still allow enough fuel flow to support 800-1000 rwhp? line is a -8 and the filter will be as well.

Lonnies Performance

iTrader: (16)

Yes a good 10 micron filter will easily support in excess of 1000rwhp.

A 100 micron is a glorified strainer, which is intended to protect the pump, not a set of fuel injectors.

A good rule of thumb is:
A 100 micron pre-filter for pump protection & minimal restriction.
A 10 micron for fuel injected cars.
A 40 micron for carbureted applications.
A 1-2 micron for diesel applications.

PRAY HRD

iTrader: (119)

thanks a bunch for chiming in!!