PRAY HRD

iTrader: (119)

hey guys, my tank is full and i've never had to drop one before (and would rather not right now) so i'm wondering if there's a way to cheat a -8 line over the top of it somewhere? I'm guessing i can probably loosen the strap bolts to give it a little room to work with temporarily.

any help and especially a pic would be Awesome!!

Thanks!

here's what i'm working with currently.........



It's also fine to keep the factory filter in place vs deleting it, getting a coupler to the factory line and a braided line to another coupler to the bucket. if it aint broke, dont fix it! lol
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=h95d4eaiQ34

Bobsmyuncle

iTrader: (32)

I plan on doing a -10 without dropping it. The way I see it, if it will fit after u shove the tank back up In, it should fit without dropping it

O1ws6

iTrader: (7)

i fit a -10 without doing anything. (plastic tank) ran it down on the right hand side of some box looking thing. i can snap a pic when i get home.

PRAY HRD

iTrader: (119)

good to hear and that would be great 01ws6! i think that's about the direction my fitting is facing iirc where that evap box piece is located, as shown in the pic direction wise.

ss1

iTrader: (32)

I can't really tell from the pics in this thread, but did you end up moving the vapor pressure sensor to get the -8an fitting to screw over your bulkhead fitting? I saw you mentioned it in your build up thread. The more I look at it, did you raise up the bulkhead fitting a bit for more clearance?

I also noticed you still have the three oem lines attached. Can you explain what you did with these?

PRAY HRD

iTrader: (119)

sure, they're still attached....the 1 is for evap iirc, 1 is return (no longer being used but in place) and the last is the feed which is now the new return line.

i only had to back the 90* bulkhead fitting out 1 turn to clear over the vapor sensor but that's made me have to slightly dimple the patch panel, no biggie, just gonna use a slightly larger panel piece which i was going to do anyway because the 1 on there already barely overlapped the hole at all.

like i said in the thread though...if i had to do it again, i'd have the new wires coming out of the vapor sensor hole and drill a new one for it. but dimpling a patch panel that will never be seen is easier than taking it all out to do that at this point.

hope that helps ya man.

MaxxMitchell

iTrader: (15)

-10 will fit, but I usually have to bend up the floor where it goes over the tank. -8 should fit pretty easily.

ss1

iTrader: (32)

So you ran both the factory feed and return back to the tank for returns, makes sense. What did you do with the original fuel filter?

PRAY HRD

iTrader: (119)

no the old return isn't being used but is still just there in place and will have a cap on it. the feed is now the return.

i honestly didn't know there was a filter aside from the socks! lol where is it located? i haven't been under there yet to reverse the factory regulator which is what i think i read needs to be done. i'll have to go back to the sticky made by mightymouse before i tackle the rest. i haven't done much with the car as i've had unexpected expenses and trying to save up for a parts order.

ss1

iTrader: (32)

The factory fuel filter is on the inside of the drivers side rear frame rail, just ahead of the tire. Itconnects to the steel line coming from the T where the feed and return meet, and the other end of the filter converts it to the factory plastic feed line that attaches to the sending unit. I'd be afraid that if it isn't removed you may push a bunch of **** back into your tank if you use it as the return.

http://www.installuniversity.com/ls1...ement-one.html

PRAY HRD

iTrader: (119)

i will find out. thanks for the heads up!

PRAY HRD

iTrader: (119)

As stated, it fits and does so very well! there is a nice channel that extends to the front edge of the tank from the direction my line is facing. can't miss it! you will need to lower the tank down about 1/2" if you have a fitting on your line already and to do that, you'll also have to remove the 3 bolts holding the upper phb in place on the drivers sice. it's all 13mm iirc. as always, hope it helps someone!



Dilemma regarding the factory fuel filter when using the feed as the new return line....also posted in the other thread you were referring to ss1.....
well i got some time and yanked the filter and what a nice surprise, it flows just as well in reverse! made a quick vid of me rinsing it out after i cleaned it out with brake cleaner a few times. it was pretty nasty alright after 60k miles!! lol but it flows like new now. didn't have to cap anything off on the T either since i already removed the factory regulator in the fuel bucket. hope this helps someone.

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

lol that flows awesome still

PRAY HRD

iTrader: (119)

exactly so no need to delete the filter, just clean it out and throw it back on. 1 less thing to spend money on.

SPOOLED UP

iTrader: (2)

so how is the rest of the build coming along?

also what did you do for your hobbs switch?

PRAY HRD

iTrader: (119)

it's getting close finally. if all goes as planned its going to have the welding, electrical and vac lines all taken care of and then tuned at the same place in 3 weeks.

i'm tossing around the idea of the hobbs switch yet. i'd like to run it but several have said it's not needed for as little time as the car is out of boost so both pumps will be running almost all the time anyway.

TX RED

iTrader: (19)

I did the same thing with my filter....