ericwilloughby

I searched. None were complete with measurements so...

Stop by Harbor Freight and get one of these. It's worth $30



Remove the rear speaker plastics and the cargo hold down brackets. Pull the carpet back.



All of these shots are taken from the t-top hole...The best landmark is this valley. Measure from 1.5-2" from the end of it. You are avoiding the tank vent because it touches the metal and will get cut if you go further.



Cut, you have about 1" clearance under the metal except where you will be crossing that valley. The wires touch it. Don't go anywhere near it until you cut the other 3 sides and lift it up to inspect.



Finish cutting.

ericwilloughby

Disconnect wiring. Removing the hoses is easy. Remember, you don't want fuel pressure on these. All you have to do is pinch the clear plastic pieces and twist and pull the hose. The center one, just pinch and pull.



wd-40 the bucket locking device and tap around it with a punch. Pull the bucket out. Be careful with the level sender float.

Mine looked like this.

ericwilloughby

I'll be putting one of the Walbro turbine pumps in this bucket without chopping it up this weekend. Will post that also.

ss performance

iTrader: (17)

Nice write up.

Is that really a bare wire?

ericwilloughby

Yeah. Melted all the way to the bulkhead plug. I ordered all new upgraded wiring all the way back to the alternator...relay...plugs...from racetronix. Harness was as much as the pump.

they say this is a common problem.

spydog

How do you re seal after you cut the access panel?

spydog

I looked I have a plastic tank. I do not have access to a cnc laser so what should a guy like me do also anyone have good measurements of the location to be cut out I am a newbie to this but I figure if my friend and I was able to install a monster cluch in my car I should be able to do this pump access hole

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Thread cleaned up...keep it civil and on track please.

ericwilloughby

Thank you sir. I sealed my trap door up today. Used simple metal type duct tape. The door was resting on the excess wire from the hotwire kit so it didn't need any support under it. Easy, simple.

I fired it up without a regulator in the return line today and to my amazment it runs and is driveable with 20 psi of fuel pressure and a quick retune of the injector flow rate. Damn. That evap return has a rather restrictive 5/16ths hose barb. I may need to open that up so my regulator, that won't be here til next week, will meter properly. Will see.

Cthornsmax92

Know this is an old post, but getting ready to do my 00 SS and want to "Finish" the door off nicely, can you tell me the dimensions of the hole? Basically wanting to know if this would work size wise.


https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Fuel-...oor,60735.html

klinznilk

iTrader: (8)

Here is what I used for mine. It turned out great imo. A little tight getting it out however it works.


Allstar Performance ALL18541 Access Panel Kit

OrgnDonr

iTrader: (5)

I was thinking of going this route as well. do you happen to have the dimensions you cut?

G Atsma

Who are you asking? This thread is 8 years old.

ls1z01

iTrader: (2)

Just did the trap door and took some measurements for people who wants reference.

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

Summit Racing sells a nice looking trap door plate kit.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

Did a hinged door with a little loop handle on mine and it's nice having the extra room to get at the connections.