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00 Dual pump install with upgraded fuel lines.

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Old 06-30-2004, 04:49 PM   #1
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Default 00 Dual pump install with upgraded fuel lines.

Currently I have a single Walbro 340 running through the stock lines out of the tank and into a -6AN line, through a small fuel filter, and then up to the rails, and then back to an Aeromotive boost reference FPR. My fuel pressure is never addiquate. So I want to redo the fueling system.

I've already installed LS1Speed two pump hot wire kit. So I'm thinking about upgrading my BR-FPR, fuel filter, supply line, and adding a second fuel pump with hobbs switch. Here are my questions.

1) I now want to use a bulkhead fitting to take the new fuel line strainght into the tank. As we all know, it's a tight space in there. What kind of block or junction are you guys using to split the single fuel line into two smaller fuel lines? If you have part numbers and/or sizes that would be helpful.

2) I think the small fuel filter may be cause cavitation in my fuel line. I've already switched pumps once, which "helped" but did not cure my problem. I think maybe the -6AN line is too small and this filter has become the bottle neck. The one I have is actually smaller looking than stock. What filter do you all suggest I use? -8 or -10AN would be preferrable.

3) The logical choice would be to upgrade my fuel line to -8AN. But if my eventual goal is to eclipse 700 rwhp, then would -10AN be a better choice? If you've run -10AN supply line, have you run into any problems? Will my dual walbros be able to support such a large fuel line at WOT? What about the single pump at partial throttle?

4) Where do I get a hobbs switch and does anyone have any advice on hooking one up? I have a progressive alky injection system and was considering having them both kick in at 5 psi. Anyone see a problem with this?

5) I've heard the Aeromotive BR-FPR I have has a weak blatter and might be responcible for some of my issues. Any thoughts one a good quality replacement?

Any advice or suggestion you can make would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike
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Old 06-30-2004, 07:59 PM   #2
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TTT for you as I'd like to know as well

-Sly
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Old 06-30-2004, 09:24 PM   #3
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Mike,

Im not sure how much HP -8an will do but thats what i have. You can do what i was going to do before i decided to sump my stock tank.

Do a dual intank 340 setup..... use these pics i borrowed from Mighty Mouse.... since you can link pics from where his is hosted.
Run a -8an from the tank to the front as your new feed line.... for the stock tank.....
Click the image to open in full size.
Then wire and plumb up the dual tanks like this.....
Click the image to open in full size.
connect the -8an to that and use your stock feed as your return.... and block of the other ports from the tank.... i had to because i got rid of all that other stuff...
Then use a Tube, nut , sleeve.
Click the image to open in full size.
And connect it to your stock feed wich is now your return.....
Click the image to open in full size.
Then buy a set of aftermarket rails and all the fittings like these....
Click the image to open in full size.
and seat the reg on the return line (old stock feed) and you should be fine..... heres a pic of the other parts..... dont forget a fuel filter......
Click the image to open in full size.

When your done it will look like this..... this is my car.... now
Click the image to open in full size.

Hope i didnt confuse you.... im sure others will chime in......
Fewwwwww that took a while.....
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Old 06-30-2004, 09:41 PM   #4
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dude that was sweet! Great info!!

-Sly
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Old 06-30-2004, 10:22 PM   #5
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Your welcome..........
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Old 07-01-2004, 12:31 AM   #6
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Mike! You know you should call me in these situations as you know what we've done with my car... You are the braided-line man. lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by buschman
1) I now want to use a bulkhead fitting to take the new fuel line strainght into the tank. As we all know, it's a tight space in there. What kind of block or junction are you guys using to split the single fuel line into two smaller fuel lines? If you have part numbers and/or sizes that would be helpful.
As those pictures show, you can get the t-fittings from your local hardware store... I have no idea how all that **** will fit in the tank... I went with earls/aeroquip adapters to take the 8an bulkhead down to a 6an hose barb to rubber hose clamped to the single walbro... I would do something similar to those pictures but everything will have to sit outside the plastic housing of the pump assembly. Should be interesting shoehorning that crap back into the tank.

Quote:
Originally Posted by buschman
2) I think the small fuel filter may be cause cavitation in my fuel line. I've already switched pumps once, which "helped" but did not cure my problem. I think maybe the -6AN line is too small and this filter has become the bottle neck. The one I have is actually smaller looking than stock. What filter do you all suggest I use? -8 or -10AN would be preferrable.
Depending on how much power you wanna make, 8AN is a good size... 10AN is huge... Although raymer did make 700+ on stock fuel lines... Also note boost referencing your regulator will starve that single walbro... Raymer took mine off boost reference because of this... car runs fine... I use the Aeromotive filter with 3/8 NPT ends... then got 8AN to 3/8 adapters...put it near-by where the stock filter used to be.

Quote:
Originally Posted by buschman
3) The logical choice would be to upgrade my fuel line to -8AN. But if my eventual goal is to eclipse 700 rwhp, then would -10AN be a better choice? If you've run -10AN supply line, have you run into any problems? Will my dual walbros be able to support such a large fuel line at WOT? What about the single pump at partial throttle?
8AN should be fine for that power level.

Quote:
Originally Posted by buschman
4) Where do I get a hobbs switch and does anyone have any advice on hooking one up? I have a progressive alky injection system and was considering having them both kick in at 5 psi. Anyone see a problem with this?
Ls1 speed sells them, Aeromotive and MSD I believe sell boxes that are more $$$, basically regulate voltage to pump #2 via boost reference.

Quote:
Originally Posted by buschman
5) I've heard the Aeromotive BR-FPR I have has a weak blatter and might be responcible for some of my issues. Any thoughts one a good quality replacement?
Never heard that...mine worked fine before the re-build..now as stated, I don't reference boost so it's always 60psi.

I do have that extra Aeromotive Pro Series regulator for sale if you want to go to 10AN

Let me know if you want help finding part numbers for hose ends and fittings... that was probably the most time consuming of everything...besides making the hoses...

Oh and expect to spend a **** load on fittings if you go braided line... Alternative is the reinforced rubber hose but it's expensive too... I spent a crap load... some fittings are like 20 a piece! Lookout if you want a y-block -- $80... lol.. nuts.. That's why a lot of guys go to the hardware store and buy brass stuff...

-Rob-
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Old 07-01-2004, 06:53 AM   #7
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Excellent info guys!!! Pictures are really worth a thousand words.
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Old 07-01-2004, 07:25 AM   #8
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kyle WOW you went over my install better than i did

only thing i would have ever done different is the T inside the tank to a Y but the $$$ ugg.

i'm glad i could help, your engine bay looks sweet.
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Old 07-01-2004, 07:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MIGHTYMOUSE
kyle WOW you went over my install better than i did

only thing i would have ever done different is the T inside the tank to a Y but the $$$ ugg.

i'm glad i could help, your engine bay looks sweet.

Thanks MM i got the idea of doing a tube, nut , sleeve from your pics..... then i did mine. All i did was get my summit catalog and draw out how i wanted my fuel system..... im a diagram and visual person...... i priced out each part and made my order. So you know Mike i spent $220 on fittings alone.... thats not including the $120 for the 20' of -8an. Filter was $75 i believe and the Reg. was $135 or so. I think the Rails were about $140 from Nate@ Na$ty Performance....... Ill be doing more to mine soon.... ill be adding -6an return all the way back to the tank......
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Old 07-01-2004, 09:21 PM   #10
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Most of this stuff I think I already know the answer to. I just wanted to get others opinions. The one question mark I have is whether to go -10AN or -8AN. I mean is there a disadvantage to running a 10? Cause the price difference between an 8 and 10 setup is nominal compared to the overall cost of the lines and fittings themselves. I wish I had had the foresight to do 8 when I did 6 initially. So thats why I'm looking for more input now.

Rob, Do you keep your car in a garage? If so notice any fuel smell after it's been in there a while? An overnight stay for mine will stink the place up. I've head that Earl's lines do that, but Aeroquip does not. Anyone have any experience with this?

Kyle and/or Dave, I notice you two have steel braided line inside the tank. Any issues with that? I would think rubber lines in the tank would be better. How is the outer shell of that line holding up? Any worry about a braid breaking off and getting sucked into the pump?

Thanks for all the info guys.

Mike
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Old 07-02-2004, 12:26 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buschman
Most of this stuff I think I already know the answer to. I just wanted to get others opinions. The one question mark I have is whether to go -10AN or -8AN. I mean is there a disadvantage to running a 10?
Other than you have a crap load of fuel sitting in the lines when not in use... Maybe too big for normal driving? I still think you'll be ok with 8an.

Quote:
Originally Posted by buschman
Rob, Do you keep your car in a garage? If so notice any fuel smell after it's been in there a while? An overnight stay for mine will stink the place up. I've head that Earl's lines do that, but Aeroquip does not. Anyone have any experience with this?
Yes, but I assumed it was because I removed the EVAP lines... which I want to somehow put back in... PITA when trying to fill gas... Also may be the bulkhead seal... Dunno.. But I smell it in the car mostly as well...still have that access hole in the back.

Quote:
Originally Posted by buschman
Kyle and/or Dave, I notice you two have steel braided line inside the tank. Any issues with that? I would think rubber lines in the tank would be better. How is the outer shell of that line holding up? Any worry about a braid breaking off and getting sucked into the pump?
I was thinking similar thoughts in my setup thus went with rubber only inside... plus braided is less flexible and thus harder to fit inside the tank for us plastic tanks.
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Old 07-05-2004, 10:55 AM   #12
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TTT hopin to get some more input on this one.

Thanks guys and special thanks to those that have already given insite.

Mike
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Old 07-05-2004, 03:05 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buschman
Kyle and/or Dave, I notice you two have steel braided line inside the tank. Any issues with that? I would think rubber lines in the tank would be better. How is the outer shell of that line holding up? Any worry about a braid breaking off and getting sucked into the pump?

Thanks for all the info guys.

Mike
MIke my pump is a external pump so there for there is no braided line in my tank..... my stock tank is sumped..... gravity fed.....
Click the image to open in full size.

Kyle
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Virginia Speed LS3 Heads/Cam/Converter/Tune.
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Old 07-27-2004, 10:26 AM   #14
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I just installed a Nasty N8 performance fuel system in my car, it is exactly the same to this set-up in the picture. I have a TNT wet kit on the car already and I was wonder if anyone else has any ideas of where I can hook up the fuel line for the TNT kit since I no longer have the stock factory rails? I was also wondering how I would go about hooking up a fuel pressure gauge to this set-up, any ideas?

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 07-27-2004, 02:16 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBake
I was also wondering how I would go about hooking up a fuel pressure gauge to this set-up, any ideas?
I can't comment on the TNT kit setup but you can see where the sending unit for the fuel pressure gauge is mounted in that picture. Look at the back of the driver's side fuel rail. That gold cylinder is the sending unit for the gauge. You need a special fitting to mount that. Summit or Jegs should sell it.

Mike
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Old 08-02-2004, 10:22 AM   #16
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here you go
99+ plastic tank dual pump set up
http://www.cofba.org/users/smokinhaw...-pics/fuel.htm
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Old 08-02-2004, 10:22 AM
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