installed Fullthrottle kit
08-12-2007, 09:02 PM
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installed Fullthrottle kit i just got done installing my fullthrottle PnP fuel pump. install was pretty straight forward and easy. i accidently had the + and - wires backward so when i went to start the car nothing happened. but i knew what the problem was right away so it wasnt a big deal.
what i wanted to ask was, after the install i started the car and it instantly idles perfect apposed to a jumpy, finding idle before, and i used to have a slight hesitation when taking off at low RPM's and now that's gone. also when i used to turn the A/C on in my car at idle, the RPM's would dip drastically and the car would want to die. now the RPM's dont even flutter. i mean all this is great, but i always attributed the little quarks my car had to a unfinished tune. could the added fuel pressure really be all it needed this whole time or is this all just a coincidence? i hope not, b/c the car is running great!
i didnt install the hotwire kit b/c i ran out of daylight, and this might sound stupid but can i route that through the cabin or does it have to go under the car? I've been under that car so much lately, I'm not looking forward to more time under it. I need at least a week break! but seriously, only reason i ask is b/c i cant see how i am going to route that cable with the tank in place. i cut a access panel. anyone have a method of routing it with tank in place? give me a idea.
Jon
what i wanted to ask was, after the install i started the car and it instantly idles perfect apposed to a jumpy, finding idle before, and i used to have a slight hesitation when taking off at low RPM's and now that's gone. also when i used to turn the A/C on in my car at idle, the RPM's would dip drastically and the car would want to die. now the RPM's dont even flutter. i mean all this is great, but i always attributed the little quarks my car had to a unfinished tune. could the added fuel pressure really be all it needed this whole time or is this all just a coincidence? i hope not, b/c the car is running great!
i didnt install the hotwire kit b/c i ran out of daylight, and this might sound stupid but can i route that through the cabin or does it have to go under the car? I've been under that car so much lately, I'm not looking forward to more time under it. I need at least a week break! but seriously, only reason i ask is b/c i cant see how i am going to route that cable with the tank in place. i cut a access panel. anyone have a method of routing it with tank in place? give me a idea.
Jon
Last edited by ProjecT 9; 08-12-2007 at 10:24 PM.
08-14-2007, 03:31 AM
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i accidently had the + and - wires backward
Wire upgrade should be run under the car from tank to front. To run thru the interior cabin would just be even more trouble as you would have to drill a hole to get into the interior at the rear, and another to exit back out the front - all just to have the wires inside the car for 4 ft.
The short wiring harness from the kit will need to plug onto your fuel bucket on top of tank, the stock wires will then plug into the new short wiring harness on one end, and the new long harness will plug onto the other end of the new short harness (short harness acts like a jumper).
Good that you cut the access panel as you will need to get back in there again to attach all the wiring. No access panel would mean you would have had to drop the tank again
It is possible to run the long wiring harness up between the car body and the fuel tank at the rear of the tank by using a coat hanger to pull the wires up thru. Be careful as you pull the wires over the top edge of the tank as space is very limited and the connectors on the end of the new long harness barely fit thru the space available. I then attached the new relay and new Ground under an existing bolt that holds the brake line bracket onto car behind rear DS wheel - to the left of the body electrical connector. Be sure to grind paint off car under bolting area, clean up both sides of the bracket, and underneath the bolt head in order to get good contact for ground wire. Then you'll run the rest of the long harness up to the front of the car to the alternator.
Good to hear your car runs better now
I have the FullThrottle pump in one of my TA's and the Racetronix setup in the other. Pretty much same setup except Racetronix includes the anodized pump sleeve on their kit's Walbro - allows the new pump to fit tight into the fuel bucket as the stocker did and not jump around. If you notice, the Walbro is significantly a smaller ID than stock pump. The FT kit includes a foam ring to go around the pump for this purpose. I personally didn't like the looks of it as I figured it would deteriorate soon due to being submerged in gas and then the pump would be free to move around. So I had our machinist make me up a custom aluminum sleeve for the pump just as the one supplied by Racetronix. Wasn't bad for me as the part/material was free.-Jay-
08-15-2007, 06:09 PM
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i ended up routing the hotwire kit through the cabin. it actually wasn't as bad as you might think. i didnt feel like laying on my back so this is how i routed it:
installing the pump i cut the access hole.
here was a bolt i felt was perfect for the ground, so i sanded down the area:
followed the factory wiring harness behind the panels:
goes under the carpet between the door trim and seat. cant even tell its there:
went through the firewall at the grommet behind the PCM:
hooked up to + lead on battery:
pretty easy install and it only took about a hour. most of the time i was unscrewing trim inside and routing the harness. i think the hardest part was getting the harness through the grommet, but that wasnt even really hard. I'd recommend this way to anyone not wanting to go under the car for whatever reason, but you'd have to have the access hole cut. i plan on putting a door over the fuel pump, but will leave a small open hole for the harness to come out. will probably try to find a grommet to fit the harness and when the door's mounted i'll try to make it look as factory as possible. I'll come back and put some arrows in pointing out the harness to those that arent familiar with whats factory and whats not. make the pictures easier to follow basically. so what kinda pressure does the factory pump push out? i want to get a gauge and compare it to see how much PSI i actually picked up from the install.
Jon
installing the pump i cut the access hole.
here was a bolt i felt was perfect for the ground, so i sanded down the area:
followed the factory wiring harness behind the panels:
goes under the carpet between the door trim and seat. cant even tell its there:
went through the firewall at the grommet behind the PCM:
hooked up to + lead on battery:
pretty easy install and it only took about a hour. most of the time i was unscrewing trim inside and routing the harness. i think the hardest part was getting the harness through the grommet, but that wasnt even really hard. I'd recommend this way to anyone not wanting to go under the car for whatever reason, but you'd have to have the access hole cut. i plan on putting a door over the fuel pump, but will leave a small open hole for the harness to come out. will probably try to find a grommet to fit the harness and when the door's mounted i'll try to make it look as factory as possible. I'll come back and put some arrows in pointing out the harness to those that arent familiar with whats factory and whats not. make the pictures easier to follow basically. so what kinda pressure does the factory pump push out? i want to get a gauge and compare it to see how much PSI i actually picked up from the install.
Jon
08-15-2007, 06:16 PM
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Nice job! For me, going thru the interior would be almost impossible as I have a 6-point roll cage - almost no way of getting the rear interior panels off now. Would be much easier to go under the car the way I did.
One question though; the main harness is usually hooked up directly to post on alternator for best/highest voltage. When coming off the battery, isn't your FP gonna have to share the voltage from the battery with everything else that is using it instead of getting voltage first hand before anything else when coming off alternator?
As a check, you might want to turn all accessories on (lights, DL, hi beams, both fans, ac, etc) and see what kind of voltage you're getting when coming off the battery.
-Jay-
One question though; the main harness is usually hooked up directly to post on alternator for best/highest voltage. When coming off the battery, isn't your FP gonna have to share the voltage from the battery with everything else that is using it instead of getting voltage first hand before anything else when coming off alternator?
As a check, you might want to turn all accessories on (lights, DL, hi beams, both fans, ac, etc) and see what kind of voltage you're getting when coming off the battery.
-Jay-
08-15-2007, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 1QUIKWS6
Nice job! For me, going thru the interior would be almost impossible as I have a 6-point roll cage - almost no way of getting the rear interior panels off now. Would be much easier to go under the car the way I did.
One question though; the main harness is usually hooked up directly to post on alternator for best/highest voltage. When coming off the battery, isn't your FP gonna have to share the voltage from the battery with everything else that is using it instead of getting voltage first hand before anything else when coming off alternator?
As a check, you might want to turn all accessories on (lights, DL, hi beams, both fans, ac, etc) and see what kind of voltage you're getting when coming off the battery.
-Jay-
One question though; the main harness is usually hooked up directly to post on alternator for best/highest voltage. When coming off the battery, isn't your FP gonna have to share the voltage from the battery with everything else that is using it instead of getting voltage first hand before anything else when coming off alternator?
As a check, you might want to turn all accessories on (lights, DL, hi beams, both fans, ac, etc) and see what kind of voltage you're getting when coming off the battery.
-Jay-
08-16-2007, 04:28 AM
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No grommet on DS that I know of. I actually drilled my own hole some time back on both DS and PS and installed grometted fittings for wire pass thru's.
Having to rip out the PCM every time, which in my case I had to disconnect the connectors, which in turn cut off power to PCM, which then meant it needed to relearn tuning settings and optimize all over again every time - was a PITA because I don't drive the car that much so it was almost always in relearn mode
Having to rip out the PCM every time, which in my case I had to disconnect the connectors, which in turn cut off power to PCM, which then meant it needed to relearn tuning settings and optimize all over again every time - was a PITA because I don't drive the car that much so it was almost always in relearn mode
08-16-2007, 08:25 AM
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how much voltage should be supplied for the walbro 255 to operate properly?
where does the factory fuel pump get its power? battery/alternator?
before i go around changing stuff i want to see how much its getting compared to how much it could get from the alternator. if its fine at the battery then I'll keep it there. thanks
*edit* i talked with Full Throttle and they said hooking the harness to the alternator would pick up a volt or two, and thats a 20% gain. so I'll hook it up that way, just need some time now to change it over.
Jon
where does the factory fuel pump get its power? battery/alternator?
before i go around changing stuff i want to see how much its getting compared to how much it could get from the alternator. if its fine at the battery then I'll keep it there. thanks
*edit* i talked with Full Throttle and they said hooking the harness to the alternator would pick up a volt or two, and thats a 20% gain. so I'll hook it up that way, just need some time now to change it over.
Jon
Last edited by ProjecT 9; 08-16-2007 at 08:35 AM.
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08-16-2007, 08:31 AM
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Well, the whole reason behind the wiring harness is that it's a heavier gage wire to carry more current, and the instructions state to hook it up to the alternator (where more current/steadier voltage is available) - otherwise all you would need is to keep the stock wiring in the first place.
I'm quite sure the alternator puts out more than battery - so more voltage/current to pump is better - hence hook up to alternator.
I'm quite sure the alternator puts out more than battery - so more voltage/current to pump is better - hence hook up to alternator.
08-16-2007, 03:43 PM
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alright i re-routed it from the passenger side grommet, behind the PCM, through the engine bay to the alternator. should be good to go now. thank you for the help Jay.
Jon
Jon
