rio95cobra

iTrader: (3)

I have a dilema. i bought some richmond 4.10's , but im thinking seriously about sticking with my stock 3.42's.
Why?

cuz I believe i will be doing nothing but spinning with the 4.10's( along with wheelhopping like crazy) and i think the 3.42's will overall be faster.

The gears w/ the stock 3.42's stretch out so far right now, i mean i can max out 2nd gear at 70 mph before shifting, while the other guy is well into third, running out of gear quick, and i will be passing him. Especially having a bunch of mods done, i dont think the 4.10's will be needed.

Soo..... can someone tell me why i SHOULD go 4.10's?? please im all ears

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

Nobody should be telling you 'you should go 4.10s'',that's your decision.Since you've got 3.42s',get a ride in a 4.10 car and compare what you feel.If you like what you sensed in the 4.10 car,then do it,if not,stay with the 3.42s'.
you didn't say your suspension mods,if any.Relo brackets will help eliminate 'hop' and good shocks help too.
4.10s' will increase the torque to the carrier and axles by 20%(acceleration will be greatly enhanced) and so will the ability to 'spin the tires'.
Your choice,more violent acceleration or lower cruise RPM.

rio95cobra

iTrader: (3)

no suspension mods done for now, and im sure i would buy the brackets and control arms if i do put them in.

But Im trying to think of the outcome between two 6speed cars, both making 400rwhp, one with 4.10's and one with 3.42's. I just believe the 3.42 car would win? just from staying in gear longer and and taking longer to shift, while the 4.10 car keep running out of gear QUICK .

does anyone have any exerience w/ a geared car versus a car with stock 3.42's?

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

you threw a new remark into the mix,'win'.with the parameters you've stated and assuming both vehicles have traction and both have equal horsepower,the 4.10 vehicle will always beat the 3.42 vehicle to a specified distance until the 4.10 vehicle runs out of more rpm in 6th gear at which time the 3.42 vehicle will catch up and pass the 4.10 vehicle to attain a higher top speed.
let's hear some responses from 3.42s' converted to 4.10s' !

SladeX

In the 1/4 mile, if all things given are the same save for the gears, both cars should theoretically cross the line at the same speed and time. Unfortunately things are not equal. With gears, you can actually launch at a higher rpm and get LESS wheel spin if done right.

Think of it this way the traction breaking point for a tire is constant in both cars. Let's say you launch at 3000rpm and the car hooks for the 3.42, the engine will bog a bit and be put down into a lower rpm, say 2200. You are now outside the powerband of the engine. Now with 4.10 gears, you launch at 4000rpm for the exact same wheel spin, but now when it hooks, you are dropped down to 3200rpm, which is still in the power band. The result is the acceleration from 2200+ will be less than 3200+ and thus the car with the 4.10 gears will jump out to an early lead.

Until top speed becomes a factor, similarly powered cars will always have the better geared car run a better time. The 3.42 geared car can try to launch from a higher rpm, but since we've already exceeded our tire holding rpm and torque, the result will be more wheel spin.

In a scenario where we have different gears and different horsepower, the one with more horsepower will eventually overtake the geared car, as the one with more horsepower will not only stay in gear longer but will have the power to keep accelerating until its shift point.

greatskiiiier

iTrader: (10)

4.10 > 3.42 period. its all around a faster car, given the same HP... if you want top end/ acceleration for 70-120... stick with the 3.42 if you want acceleration from 0-100 do the 4.10
-if you want gas mileage stick with the 3.42
-if you want to feel like your driving a rocket do the 4.10s
-idk if you ahve a 10 or 12 bolt--- but 4.10s wont last a year in a 10 bolt before it blows up
-if you want easier DD 4.10s
-if you enjoy being lazy while DD 3.42

sn8ke eatr

your car feels like a rocket even with 3.42's!

sixpack_2_go

iTrader: (1)

STICK WITH STOCK!!!!! i made the same mistake. i put 4.10s in my stock 10bolt and it ruined my track times. i was running 12.9's with my bone stock M6 2002 camaro and it dropped to 13.8's when i added 4.10's. i was taking off like a granny and spinnin through 4th gear. i would let off in the middle of every gear and let it catch traction. then i would get back on it and it would break loose again. stick with stock on the stock rear. however, if you get a 9" i would go with 4.11s and LCA relocation brackets...they help a lot and the 9" is a lot heavier so its not as bad. 4.10 on a stock 10bolt is like trying to drive on an ice skating rink...pointless

ndfrsd6

iTrader: (5)

i had both and the 4.10's didn't do it for me so i got 4.56's and love them ! i wouldn't go less ....

sn8ke eatr

uhh.. driver mod?

sixpack_2_go

iTrader: (1)

im sorry but are you trying to say that i dont know how to drive? i ran 12.9's with a completely stock 2002 m6 z28 and stock tires. not a single performance part...not even tires or an air filter. im pretty sure handle gettin down a the track just fine. you might want to rethink what you are trying to say.

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

Id say keep it stock and get some traction first. But when you can grip with them they make a huge difference. I just installed my 9" with 4.10s and the difference is great.

sixpack_2_go

iTrader: (1)

4.10's also have a smaller ring gear and are weaker than 3.42's.

SladeX

4.10 + 10 bolt = bad idea

4.11 + 9 inch = bullet proof idea

Also, just like you learned how to launch with 3.42, you have to learn to launch with 4.10 gears. If you still can't get it, traction is the problem. Everything needs the proper supporting mod else its useless.

w3s1c0a5t

iTrader: (3)

Were you running street tires and 4.10's? And did you only run them at the track the one time? Something as simple as track prep and you not being use to the gears could result in the horrible time.

sn8ke eatr

am i calling you a bad driver in general, no. if you really clicked off a 12 sec pass on a bone stock f body then nice job.

unless there was an outside factor ( track prep, different elevation, temp), which is very possible, you need to learn how to drive on 4:10s, because its not the same as stock gears.

if it means you have to feather the gas until 3rd gear ( very likely) so be it, youll still make up the time on the top end. theres absolutely no reason to add a full second because you put steeper gears in.

so what im saying is no.. gears did not make you slower. either you made you slower by not driving to the cars potential or track conditions caused the shitty pass.

gears, in general, WILL make you go faster at the track.

MY99TAWS6

iTrader: (3)

actually think seen some tests in one of the car mags that showed almost no actual difference at the track. Now a stall converter can really take off time at the track if you can hook.

Personally I love 4.10 on an NA m6 and 3.73 on an FI m6. Auto like 3.42 or 3.73 . Again personal taste. Going 3.54 in my current car but that is lowest offered ratio on the dana 60.

sixpack_2_go

iTrader: (1)

it is common knowledge that gears i will make you faster, but gears can only make you faster if you have the tires to hold the road. supporting mods! the reason rio95cobra started this thread was to get advice putting gears in a STOCK 10BOLT. its a simple fact that stock 10bolts wont hold with sticky tires. as i said earlier "if you have a stock rear keep the stock gears, but if you are going to get a 9" or 12bolt then i recommend getting the 4.11's or 4.10's"

and yes i did try feathering it...it didnt work.

4.10's + stock rear + stock tires=big smoke show

4.10's + stock rear + sticky tires=riding home in a tow truck

95maroz28

iTrader: (21)

recently switched gears in my 10 bolt. i picked up .3 and about 4 mph spinning more on my 285/35/18s

sn8ke eatr

no..

what you are suggesting is that 4:10s slow down the car because it causes the car to loose traction.

when you apply X amount of force to the contact patch of the tire and ground there is a point where the tire loses momentum efficiency because of spinning.

that amount of force does not change no matter what gears are in the car. in both cases you accelerate to the point of breaking traction. with larger gears, you may be at a lower throttle level but your still at the breaking point of traction.

its all about learning to drive man.. instead of feathering, ease into the throttle and dont put your foot to the floor until 3rd gear if thats what it takes but theres no reason your 60 foot should be any slower then before because you should be at the breaking point of traction the whole time. from the 250' mark and up traction shouldnt be an issue regardless and thats where the gears shine because you have higher torque multiplication with no negative side affects like traction issues,