armintheman

iTrader: (31)

ok guys im trying to buy some 4:10s for my M6 and people are telling me these gear will fit these wont....so idk what rearend i have i know right now it has 3:42s in it. im not sure if thats what was factory with the car or the last owner put the 3:42s in. he told me it has 4:10s but after pulling the dif cover off and counting teeth and all found out theyre 3:42s. so he may have swaped back or found some 3:42s cheap online and slapped them in or whatever.
so questions 1: is there another way of knowing if its a 3 channel or 2 channel? (i have traction control and abs i dont know if that helps)

question 2: my rear end has alotttt of whine to it which i hear is because of a bad install job on gears. but it also "clunks" real bad on take offs! not reacing or anything just trying to take off from a light. so what do i need to fix/replace to fix that? i already replaced my u joints. so im thinking its the posi?

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

M6s' were 3.42 3 series carrier.
traction control is 4 channel.
'clunks'-you have to determine source of clunks,suspension,torque arm,rearend?

armintheman

iTrader: (31)

ok so when im looking for gears do i look for 3 series 4:10s? or 4 channel 4:10s? im not very knowledgable whenit comes to rearends...
as far as the clunk its hard to tell i know the noise is coming from the back of the car, but i know the last owner replaced the tq arm with a junk yard piece also...im thinking he broke it somehow and cheaped out on the fix. im not even sure if that tq arm is for my car...could the clunks be from worn out bushings?

2001NBMZ28

I think you might be mixed up on carriers and channels. 2 or 3 series relates to the carrier, 3 or 4 channel relates to the ABS. Traction control cars have a sensor at each rear wheel, non-traction control cars have one sensor and connector plugs into the top of the pumpkin.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

3 series 4.10s'.

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

I wouldn't put gears, let alone 4.10s in a 10 bolt. It's not a very wise decision from a monetary stand point....

armintheman

iTrader: (31)

well it wont see much track use and no slicks on there either. so im thinking im going to get a detroit locker and some 410s and use it for the streets and have fun with it. maybe a couple times at the track, but its on street tires so i wont even hook!

smokeum99ta

iTrader: (15)

Just have some money$$$$$$$$$ set aside for a 9inch once you put those 4.10's in your 10 bolt. Slicks aren't needed to break a 10 bolt but they sure make it easier.

armintheman

iTrader: (31)

so its not worth it to rebuild the 10 bolt? itll be chaper and i think it should hold up real well if its not on the track right?? i dont know this is why im asking im clueless!

crossroads

iTrader: (5)

I was going through the same issues as you... I have a M6 and when i got the car the axle was already on borrowed time so I searched on here for days as to what to do cuz my car is a DD, so rite when i was convenced to just rebuild it and have some 4 10's pu tin it i started reading all these threads of the gears breaking or the 10 bolt still whining......so as to never have to deal with the axle again i pulled a loan and called strange to have them build me a dana S60, i put it in this weekend and sofar dont regret buying it one bit. I cant wait to toss that damn 10 bolt from under my car

just save up and get another axle is my advise

crossroads

iTrader: (5)

oh and i dont even plan on going to track but maybe once to get a good time in once i do a cam and intake

adam1803

iTrader: (65)

If you aren't racing the car there is no point in buying a 9 inch/12 bolt/s60. You can rebuild the 10 bolt 5 or 6 times for the price of it and the 10 bolt is definetly sufficient for daily driving. If you want to make it last longer i'd recommend staying with 3.73 or numerically lower gearing, 4.10's break most often and its because there is less material there.

As for the detroit locker, i HIGHLY recommend staying away from it in a DD. My personal choice is a Detroit tru-trac.

smokeum99ta

iTrader: (15)

The best advise I can give anybody is that if your gonna drive your car hard or add more power to it, your gonna end up breaking the 10 bolt. It just a matter of time before it gos, you don't have to be at the track either. Some will swear that thiers is holding up fine but it just a matter of time. I've broke the 10 bolt in my car at least 5-6 times (couple of those times on the street without slicks), then went 12 bolt for awhile but it just can't handle the track, so then I put in a 9inch and haven't had a issue yet to speak of. So i've probably invested 7-8k in rears and repairs and only ended up with one . Don't make the mistake me and others have made and try to use something that just isn't gonna hold up in the end. Just run what you have now and hope it doesn't break before you afford a 9 inch.

armintheman

iTrader: (31)

ok ive heard good things about 8.8s also any thoughts there? and how much is it normaly to rebuild a 10 bolt?

smokeum99ta

iTrader: (15)

If your gonna go threw the hassle of changing rears and spending 2k and up mise well get a 9 inch and be done with it. As for rebuilding a 10 bolt, i've paid anywhere from $200-$350 in labor and $150-$500 in parts back when I was letting other people work on my car.