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"How To" on swapping 10 bolt's

Old 12-13-2008, 02:33 PM
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Default "How To" on swapping 10 bolt's

O.k. i was hoping for a "how to" on swapping rear ends. I recently blew my gears in the rear of my Ws6 and have A 10 bolt rear sitting in my z28 @ home. So until i save for a Moser 9" i want to get it giong with my other rear end. Anyone know of a " how to" write up on this. Or that can provide me with one. Thank you..
Old 12-16-2008, 09:24 PM
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Nothing???
Old 12-16-2008, 09:58 PM
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Here's what I did:
  1. Jack up car by the differential housing. Make sure you position the jack so it's not touching the cover. Put jack stands under the frame rails, making sure they're high enough to clear the rearend when you eventually pull it out.
  2. Leave the jack supporting the rearend. You can use jackstands under the rearend if you don't trust your jack (I don't).
  3. Disengage hand brake.
  4. Remove lower shock nuts.
  5. Remove swaybar endlinks.
  6. Remove swaybar D-bushings. Don't let swaybar hit you in the head.
  7. Remove lower panhard bar nuts/bolts. Don't let panhard bar hit you in the head.
  8. Cut zip ties holding the brake lines to the axle housing.
  9. Remove nuts from torque arm mount.
  10. Remove nuts from driveshaft/U-joint. Remove U-bolts from U-joint. Gently lower driveshaft, so as not to damage the U-joint.
  11. Slowly lower rearend. Once it's about halfway down, unplug the ABS sensor (mine is a 3-channel, so if you have TCS, you'll also need to unplug the sensors at the wheels).
  12. Lower the rearend a little more and remove the springs/isolators.
  13. Push the shock bolts through their holes, disengaging them from the rearend.
  14. Lower the rearend so the tires are resting on the ground.
  15. Remove torque arm bolts, then move the torque arm off the rearend.
  16. Break lugnuts loose.
  17. Jack up rearend until the tires are off the ground.
  18. Remove wheels.
  19. Remove calipers as an assembly. Do not let them hang by the brake lines.
  20. Use needle nose pliers to push the tabs in on the hand brake cables, then pull the eye off of the hook on the hand brake (you'll see what I mean).
  21. Remove brake brackets.
  22. Remove rotors.
  23. Make sure everything is clear (brake lines, sensor lines, etc.)
  24. Remove the nuts for the lower control arms where they mount to the rearend.
  25. Lower the rearend far enough to clear when you pull it out. I pulled mine straight out the back.
  26. Remove the lower control arm bolts and disengage lower control arms.
  27. Pull rearend out. Don't hit your muffler.

I think that's it, but I'm writing this from memory, so I might have missed a step or two. It seems like a lot of steps, but it's not hard. I figured it out just by taking my time and paying attention. To install the new one, transfer whatever parts you're re-using to the new rearend and reverse the steps, hooking up the LCAs first. This helps keep everything steady and lined up.

Hope that helps!

Now, if I could just find someone in the Houston area with a 3-channel 10-bolt for my car...


-Mike
Old 12-19-2008, 10:22 AM
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Damn thanks man.. Gonna swap my 10 bolts today til i get a m9.


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