DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

'98 T/A... 222/228 cam, *mild* 241's, LS6 intake, headers, 3.73's, 3200 converter..

Lowered on Eibachs, UMI poly/rod LCAs, BMR adj. TA, aluminum rear cover.

Right now the car has a stock steel driveshaft, but I've also got a stock aluminum one out of my 6-speed Z28 laying here that I have no use for.

I know the steel shafts are stronger, but I also understand they have vibration issues up top (last year, stock with only 3.73s, car only went 105mph...this year...115ish?), especially with shorter gears.

The car won't be on anything better than a 275/40R17 Nitto this year.

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

stick with the steel one ive never had any high speed vibrations in my car

Elliott's94Z

iTrader: (12)

Put the aluminum on and keep the steel one on hand for back up

nemss1

^^^agreed. id throw the aluminum on there first

jsteele90

iTrader: (13)

ive seen stock aluminum ones break under stock power with sticky tires. ive seen two break at the same event. but when it breaks, which it will you can throw that steel one on there and not worry about it again

DuronClocker

iTrader: (25)

I never had a problem in my Z with a H/C setup making a bit more power, but I never could get myself out of the hole well either, and lately I've been hearing quite a few people say they have seen aluminum ones twist with stock stuff.

I suppose I'll just leave the steel one in and see if we have any vibration issues. Didn't have any issues last year, but the car will obviously be quite a bit quicker this year. Seeing as the fiance will be doing most of the driving (as it IS her car), I'd rather not have to worry about the driveshaft much.

If we don't have any vibration issues, I could always make a few bucks selling my aluminum one this summer

Elliott's94Z

iTrader: (12)

Like I said before, run the aluminum and keep the steel on hand just in case you should need it.