Just Ordered Midwest Fab 9 inch!!!!
03-23-2009, 02:44 PM
#1
Just Ordered Midwest Fab 9 inch!!!! Well I just got off the phone with Eric at Midwest Chassis and Performance. Just like everyone has always said Eric was a super nice guy to talk with and very informative. Here is my basic build sheet of what I went with
Midwest Fab 9 inch
Strange Aluminum Center Section
Back brace upgrade
Black Powder coating
Chromemoly Adjustable LCA and PHB
Richmond gear set 3.70 ratio
Axles drilled for stock studs and 1/2 ARP screw in studs
Tunnel Mounted Torque Arm with driveshaft safety loop
I can't wait to get it and get it in the car.
Midwest Fab 9 inch
Strange Aluminum Center Section
Back brace upgrade
Black Powder coating
Chromemoly Adjustable LCA and PHB
Richmond gear set 3.70 ratio
Axles drilled for stock studs and 1/2 ARP screw in studs
Tunnel Mounted Torque Arm with driveshaft safety loop
I can't wait to get it and get it in the car.
03-24-2009, 10:13 AM
#6
12 Second Club
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,898
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you don't have access to a shipping dock, you can have it shipped crated/complete from MWC to your house - but you will need to pay a liftgate truck fee (~$150) since they'll need a lift gate truck to deliver it to a residence.
Some small headaches are getting the studs into the housing and then getting the third member onto the studs. Rumor has it it's common to have to elongate some holes to get the third member over the studs. (I had mine shipped completely assembled but have read about this in other posts).
You will probably also have to enlarge the shock mount holes, check the bolt size, I used a Unibit to enlarge the holes for my Bilsteins... If you're using 4 channel ABS, the ABS sensors may need to be filed down a little to clear/fit. I needed to adjust my BMR adjustable panhard as short as it would go to get the rear centered... Other than that, it was pretty smooth sailing...
Rob (Bad30th)
Some small headaches are getting the studs into the housing and then getting the third member onto the studs. Rumor has it it's common to have to elongate some holes to get the third member over the studs. (I had mine shipped completely assembled but have read about this in other posts).
You will probably also have to enlarge the shock mount holes, check the bolt size, I used a Unibit to enlarge the holes for my Bilsteins... If you're using 4 channel ABS, the ABS sensors may need to be filed down a little to clear/fit. I needed to adjust my BMR adjustable panhard as short as it would go to get the rear centered... Other than that, it was pretty smooth sailing...
Rob (Bad30th)
Last edited by Bad30th; 03-24-2009 at 10:19 AM.
Trending Topics
03-24-2009, 11:54 PM
#8
I wonder if I could also pick it up from the warehouse. I have a truck to pick it up with so maybe I will call Eric and see if thats a possibility. It would be awfully nice to just get it and throw it in the car. I was a little worried about getting the bearings pressed onto the backing plates which Eric told me I would have to do if I do the assembly. Has anybody done this and was it too bad?
03-26-2009, 12:04 AM
#10
it is possible to have a complete assy delivered to the most local FedEx Freight terminal. they will notify you of its delivery and load it for you into a vehicle with a forktruck. otherwise a liftgate would be required to have it delivered residential and there are extra fees for that, but it is possible.
as for the little things, there are always a few bumps in the road when you are working on anything mechanical. probably the worst thing is the axle bearing install and the install of the center section. the bearings are actually simple to do, but you have to be sure its right the first time or you may face bigger problems if you have to remove the bearing assy after its pressed on. the center section is easy as well, but there isn't a new housing out there that all the studs are perfectly aligned. all you have to do is set the center section on the studs and make a note of which way they would need to go for alignment. either use a poly hammer or a nut on the stud and tap it the direction it needs to go. this helps alot in the initial installation of the center section and once it goes over the threads you pull it down the rest of the way with the nut.(don't forget the sealer!)
all in all its not that bad of a deal. we have done countless assemblies and it has been consistent throughout. I charge 80.00 shop labor to do a complete assembly and the freight is the same unless you are on the west coast. for what it takes, 80.00 isn't too bad of a deal considering what someone inexperienced could run into.
as for the little things, there are always a few bumps in the road when you are working on anything mechanical. probably the worst thing is the axle bearing install and the install of the center section. the bearings are actually simple to do, but you have to be sure its right the first time or you may face bigger problems if you have to remove the bearing assy after its pressed on. the center section is easy as well, but there isn't a new housing out there that all the studs are perfectly aligned. all you have to do is set the center section on the studs and make a note of which way they would need to go for alignment. either use a poly hammer or a nut on the stud and tap it the direction it needs to go. this helps alot in the initial installation of the center section and once it goes over the threads you pull it down the rest of the way with the nut.(don't forget the sealer!)
all in all its not that bad of a deal. we have done countless assemblies and it has been consistent throughout. I charge 80.00 shop labor to do a complete assembly and the freight is the same unless you are on the west coast. for what it takes, 80.00 isn't too bad of a deal considering what someone inexperienced could run into.
03-26-2009, 01:57 AM
#11
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: DE La Ware
Posts: 1,094
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ha well guess what Im doing it again.
I wasnt to sure about my seal job the first time and I had it lined up under the car and was attaching things when I got frustrated. I couldnt get the brake thing to thread onto the pumpkin. I got mad and just pulled it all out and took it all apart. Now I have to clean out the old seal and start over. I think this time Ill wait to install the axles until I get it on the car. That thing gets heavy when your working by yourself.
I wasnt to sure about my seal job the first time and I had it lined up under the car and was attaching things when I got frustrated. I couldnt get the brake thing to thread onto the pumpkin. I got mad and just pulled it all out and took it all apart. Now I have to clean out the old seal and start over. I think this time Ill wait to install the axles until I get it on the car. That thing gets heavy when your working by yourself.
03-26-2009, 09:33 AM
#12
12 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 310
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I got mine assembled last night and the 10 bolt out on the floor. I had no problems other than having to use a mallet to install the center section onto the housing, (I'm sure that will be hell to get off the car later lying on my back, oh well), The brake lines weren't too bad, but I wish they were a little better looking..... I may just make new brake lines that will fit and look better. One problem I have is the tunnel mount for the TorqueArm will not clear the exhaust right at the Y pipe, I am going to mess with it some more today, I think if I grind some material off of one of the pieces of metal holding the Saftey loop I may be able to make it fit...
