metalmechanic

Tell me if im on the right track, My dshaft is -3 , my tq arm plate is 1.5, which gives me an angle of -1.5. If i move the tq arm up it should get me into the positive . Im shooting for 2 deg.
Thanks

EPP

iTrader: (22)

We usually shoot for a -2 degrees, as when the rear is under a load it rotates up. Bob

2001z

iTrader: (32)

I know i tried seting mine up like the bmr video and kinda the way your setting yours up and boy was that a mistake that was the worst ride(vibrating like a ****) i have ever been in. You also really need to take the angle off the pinion and not the plate it can be off some.

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

I am with Bob on the - I think the + would be a no-no
Johnny

metalmechanic

i adjusted it before i read this, seems as if i was already there, 1 st gear seems to engage a little better, perhaps i was just really hoping to see a diff and it didnt do anything, i going to measure again from a more level position, the car i mean, i will try to get it off the pinion also

silverLSWON

iTrader: (16)

according to the sticky, your supposed to subtract the rear end angle from the DS so your angle would be 4.5

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...ion-angle.html

metalmechanic

the instr that came with BMR Tq arm says driveshaft angle, -3 subtracting tq arm mount + 1.5 = -1.5 if my math is correct. Ive been out of school for awile, the negs and pos are kind of confusing

BMR Tech

iTrader: (9)

The best way to do it is not thinking of the whole negative positive thing and just look at them as numbers. Here is our video explaining the process
on our front page of our website BMR WEBSITE

silverLSWON

iTrader: (16)

(-3)-(+1.5)=(-4.5)

just type your formula's into a calculator. it's alot easier and less confusing. i know it seems wrong but thats how it comes out

2001z

iTrader: (32)

Thats exactly what i got but you will DEF get diffrent answers to this some will say that it is -1.5 which if he went even further to get the -3 that car would shake like its riding on bare rims .

metalmechanic

your correct on the math, but the car drives fine, i have moved up one adjustment since that measurement, there are only two that i can actually line up with, top where i am now and one below where i was with the-4.5, any lower than that my tq arm will be touching y pipe, i havnt measured yet to see what is is now, been working

metalmechanic

my tq arm is non adjustable also, there are only two sets of holes that will line up anyway, the top or right below, any lower , my arm will be touching my y pipe, i forget to mention that i have BMR TRANS crossmbr
thanks for the input

metalmechanic

ok, just measured again, am at -3, there are no more adj, i can make, there are only 2 that i can actually get to work with the components i have so this is why a fully adj. tq arm would be better, im guessing why mine is slightly off from factory is cause i have solid eng. mounts which seemed to have raised the front of engine a little. is it just me or does it just suck *** anytime you have to get you head under these cars.

C Murda

iTrader: (24)

i hate getting under mine...cause every time i have to go under its cause something is wrong