trax

iTrader: (2)

My 9-inch has been working OK on my LT1 car for the past season, but I've got a few quirks that I'm trying to iron out.

For one, I've got 4-channel ABS, and I've installed the reluctor wheels and sensors, but my ABS INOP light comes on as soon as I start driving.

Now that I'm thinking about it... I'm wondering if I installed my ABS reluctor gears backwards...



Can anyone confirm if this is the cause of the problem? I have no problem popping off the bearings with my press and re-assembling it the right way, but it *is* kind of a PITA to pull everything apart.

Thanks!

roy

Pete
It looks like you pressed the ABS reluctor ring on way too far.
Here is a pict of mine.

trax

iTrader: (2)

Roy,

If you compare your picture to mine, I think my ABS gear is on backwards. The gear itself is contoured on one side, a bit like a frisbee. The dished side of the gear faces inboard on your axle, but it faces outboard on my axle. So I think that's something I'll need to change.

Thanks!

roy

I see what you are talking about Pete. That looks like it would cause the magnetic pickup to too far away from the reluctor ring to produce a signal.

trax

iTrader: (2)

Bump -- what's the safe way to disassemble the axle?

I've got a Harbor Freight press with the standard steel plates, as well as a bearing disassembly kit.

Here's what's sandwiched together, going from outside to inside:

Axle flange
ABS reluctor gear
Brake backing plate
Shim ring for LT1 brakes
Axle bearing
"Retention ring" or whatever it's called

I have a press and a bearing separator like this one, but I'm not sure how to separate this stack of stuff

My initial reaction is to try to separate each component one at a time, starting at the retention ring and moving my way inward. Is that the right approach?

ALSO are any of the components non-reusable? For example, is the retention ring a one-time-use piece, and I'll have to buy a new one when I go to reassemble the axle? Or can I put everything back together as-is without issues?

Thanks guys!

roy

Pete
Get two new bearings before you start. Judging from the bearing you have, you are not using a separate oil seal.

You will want to press off the bearing and press ring together.

Once that is off , the rest of disassembly will be straight forward.

trax

iTrader: (2)

Roy, can you clarify?

It's not pictured in my original post but I'm using a separate oil seal just like this thread.

roy

Pete if your able to use the oil seal without it touching the pressring then your okay. I could not get it to work with the thicker pressring that you are using. The pictI posted was the original bearing when Ibought the Moser axle.
I ended up going with Moser's bearing recommendation # 9508M, or you can purchase from your local parts store using the SKF # 88128RB. This bearing takes sideloading better, but must use an oil seal. It also has a thinner pressring just incase there is oil seal to press ring interference.

trax

iTrader: (2)

I'm having trouble figuring out how to remove the bearings.

First, I've found several links that mention that the retainer ring shouldn't be pressed off, but instead it should be grinded and chiseled, then the bearing should be pressed off. (See here for further discussion).

Can you guys confirm whether or not I need to grind or use a press to remove the retention ring?

Also, does anyone have pictures of how to situate the axle in the press in order to get the bearing out? It seems easy to set up the axle to press parts on, but not easy at all to arrange it to pull things apart.

Thanks!

roy

Pete
This pict should explain what you need.
A lot of people notch the pressring at 180 deg and hit with a cold chisel . Probably because the press doesn't have enough *** to remove both at the same time. My press has enough *** to remove the bearing and press ring at the same time. Word of caution though , when removing the bearing, the outer race may explode from the press. A scatter shield is nice in those situations.

trax

iTrader: (2)

Roy,

That's exactly the setup that I use when I work on pinion gears. The problem that I'm running into is supporting the axle in a way that it can push downward when I pump the jack. In the pic above, the bearing splitter sits on the arbor plates and that holds the pinion in the air. However when I do this on an axle, the axle flange is almost the size of the splitter and I can't find a way to support it.

roy

Sounds like your splitter is too small. I use a 12 inch splitter. Works like a charm.

trax

iTrader: (2)

Bearings are off.

Now for another issue... getting a wrench into the backing plate in order to tighten the backing plate bolts. This is an LT1 car with LT1 backing plates. It looks like the ABS reluctor rings are a bit different in size than an LS1 car, and the backing plate looks a bit thicker as well.

First, let's have a look at how the ABS exciter ring / reluctor gear looks when it's mounted facing in the correct direction. Notice that there's a bit of a gap now between the ARP studs and the back of the gear. Also, you can see the small ridge in the axle where the gear bottoms out. Can someone verify that this looks normal?


Next, I did some test-fitting to make sure that I'd be able to reach the axle bearings. In the following pics, you can see the LT1-specific backing plate spacer ring, and how I placed the backing plate to be within 1/8" of flush to the ring...


But here's where I run into a problem--I'm not sure if I'll be able to get a wrench in between the backing plate and the gear! I haven't tried this with the bearing in place, but just this rough measurement seems to indicate that it's gonna be REALLY tight. Compare that to the clearance that I had when the gear was installed facing backwards...


Anybody have any feedback about this issue? It sounds like some LT1 guys have had to grind the backing plates in order to make room for their wrenches. But either way, I'd like to make sure that I didn't muck anything up before I put the axle bearings on.

roy

Pete
I have no experience with LT1 style backing plates.

trax

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like some other guys have had the same problem:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...rear-swap.html