97 Trans Am ws6

i have a 97 trans am with a stock diff with a 3.73 in there. My diff is starting to leak little drips every where and its not coming for the cover its coming from the pinion seal. Is there a way to unbolt the driveshaft and replace the seal without taking the diff apart. And if so is it pretty simple to do and what exactly is the best way to do it.
thanks guys

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Yes it is possible, you need to mark the relationship to everything as it comes apart and try like hell to get it back together lined back up the same with the pinion nut in the exact same place. Pinion nut tightness determines pinion bearing preload so its important to get it just right.

Randy WS6

iTrader: (69)

You will need a new crush sleeve and pinion nut, To install the sleeve ,Remove the pinion nut and yoke, remove the seal then remove the outer bearing and there is a ring (crush sleeve) remove it . That's what put the preload to the inner & outer pinion bearings. install the new crush sleeve and old pinion bearing if still in good shape, then the new seal and yoke and the new nut, This is were it gets a little tuff, You will most likely need a breakerbar or 1/2" drive impact gun, just watch what your doing with the impact, if you over tighten the pinion nut or over crush the crush sleeve you will haft to install a new one, Its best to use a breakerbar to crush the sleeve slowly, Then tighten it down till you start to fill a little drag on the yoke, Take a
in-lbs torque wrench and check the drag till you get 15 in-lbs. then you will have proper preload on the pinion bearings and your ready to go.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

^^^ can you explain how do you get the outer pinion bearing out without tearing it up? all the while the center chunk is completely assembled. It has a very light press fit and no attachment points to pull on it with. I have never attempted that and dont see how it could be done without tearing the bearing up.

Randy WS6

iTrader: (69)

The bearing will slide out, Its a tapered caged bearing, The bearing outer race is pressed in the housing dont remove it unless it bad, The bearing it self just slide on the pinion, it will slide right off.You can use two small screw drivers and reach in the housing and slide the bearing out. you will not hurt the bearing Ive changed mine a few times while its was still in the car. ,very simple.

eseibel67

iTrader: (10)

Thanks, RandyWS6.

Nice clear writeup.

97 Trans Am ws6

about what is all that gunna cost me? im out of a job right now so moneys a little tight

Randy WS6

iTrader: (69)

For the cost, If the outer pinion bearing is not bad, probably around $20.00 for the seal & crush sleeve and new nut. The Bearing would be around $10 to $20.00. Just remember when you get to the point were you start tightening up the crush sleeve. You will think what the hell, It extremely hard to crush by hand ,so use a long breaker bar for leverage. and just don't over tighten with a impact gun.

angel71rs

While doing the new crush sleeve is the correct way, doing it with the marking method works for plenty of guys. Or you could do what I did, read here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...nion-seal.html

Make sure seal itself is the issue, don't waste time/effort replacing seal if it's coming up thru splines. In my case, area in front of seal was dry, ujoint side of flange was wet.

angel71rs

To properly install a new crush sleeve, you have to disassemble the rear end so only the pinion gear is installed when you check the preload.

Otherwise the reading is invalid because you would also be seeing the drag caused by the installed carrier/bearings (they also take a preload), axle bearings/seals, and the brakes.

97 Trans Am ws6

thanks guys because everyone keeps telling me i have to completely take apart the diff to do it

cambirdracing

iTrader: (4)

I was fixin ta say this.

BlacKBirD25

ya actually i gotta do all this myself.. only i gotta new my motor mounts too and i alrdy put long tubes on it >.< only i think mine backed off a lil bit at the diff, it will get a bad vibration almost grind feeling if u give it to much gas from a stop

BlueStreak362

iTrader: (8)

In addition to reassembly, i always add some kind of sealant to the splines on the pinion splines where the yoke slides on, RTV black is usually what i use, that way no fluid can come through the splines and leak, it will also help the yoke to slide onto the pinion splines. We were taught in class to never use a impact as it is extremely easy to over tighten the nut, crushing the sleeve to much and not having proper installed preload. I always use a breaker bar. Then check with in lb torque wrench as specified above. Also never stick a screwdriver in the housing to pry a seal out, you can score up inside and cause a leak or improper fitment, I usually try to take an old common screwdriver, get it along one side of the pinion seal, tap with a hammer till you raise the lip then pop it right out. Just a few tricks ive picked up. Hope this helps