Questions on strange s60 options
10-01-2009, 07:53 AM
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Questions on strange s60 options My budget is very tight at the moment and I'm trying too see what I do and don't need on the s60 to save cost. But, I don't want to sacrifice durability in the long run. Maximum power goal is 500rwhp on the car and 5k clutch dumps when it becomes a drag car.
1. The chrome-moly yolk on diff ($52), is it worth it? Will the standard 1350 yolk hold for my application?
2. Driveshaft- TIG vs MIG ($80 cheaper)?
3. Cover- I already know all the chrome covers leak and this will be upgraded. I see there is a non-support cover ($46) vs LPW support cover ($120). Also have read the non-support hits the gas tank??
4. I don't really care about the 3 channel ABS stuff- best way to eliminate the ABS light on the dash?
Thanks in advance,
James
1. The chrome-moly yolk on diff ($52), is it worth it? Will the standard 1350 yolk hold for my application?
2. Driveshaft- TIG vs MIG ($80 cheaper)?
3. Cover- I already know all the chrome covers leak and this will be upgraded. I see there is a non-support cover ($46) vs LPW support cover ($120). Also have read the non-support hits the gas tank??
4. I don't really care about the 3 channel ABS stuff- best way to eliminate the ABS light on the dash?
Thanks in advance,
James
10-01-2009, 10:14 PM
#4
Hey James
Figure this bro, will spending an extra $250 be worth bullit-proofing the rear that much more be worth it? Yes in my opinion. I had mine set for overkill just in case for up to 1000whp about. That way the 500hp I am throwing at it won't even come close to effecting it. Will you be sure that you will be content with 500whp? If you think you may cracking that number, I wouldn't skimp on the rear. Get it now if you think you will go with more just in case. When I got mine I was on a budget also, but figured all the extras would be worth it in the long run.
As for the brake delete. Disable it and pull the dash out and take the bulb out for the light. As for disabling it safely... That I don't know bro. I would like to see what there is too it also.
Mike
Figure this bro, will spending an extra $250 be worth bullit-proofing the rear that much more be worth it? Yes in my opinion. I had mine set for overkill just in case for up to 1000whp about. That way the 500hp I am throwing at it won't even come close to effecting it. Will you be sure that you will be content with 500whp? If you think you may cracking that number, I wouldn't skimp on the rear. Get it now if you think you will go with more just in case. When I got mine I was on a budget also, but figured all the extras would be worth it in the long run.
As for the brake delete. Disable it and pull the dash out and take the bulb out for the light. As for disabling it safely... That I don't know bro. I would like to see what there is too it also.
Mike
10-01-2009, 10:45 PM
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I talked to a buddy at work and he said i need a "weak link" in the driveline so I don't break the trans. I'm thinking the 1350 should be fine, but I would like the stronger TIG shaft. If the LPW cover has a drain/fill bolt then I want that... I'm very **** about changing fluids very often and don't want to break the cover open every 5k just to RnR the diff fluid.
Thanks for the input guys, can't wait to ditch this 10bolt. Noise is getting worse and Im trying my hardest to go no more than 1/4 throttle until I get this new rear end.
Thanks for the input guys, can't wait to ditch this 10bolt. Noise is getting worse and Im trying my hardest to go no more than 1/4 throttle until I get this new rear end.
And show that 10 bolt what is supposed to be able to do lol. 