sspower23

01 camaro SS, 6 speed, 10 bolt rearend, 74k miles. Switching from 3.42s to 4.10s. Do I need to change or upgrade axles too? Or is there anything else thats needs to be changed at this time when changing the gears?
Thanks

Anthony Williams

iTrader: (3)

I would go ahead and get a rebuild kit and change out all of the bearings and seals, it cost me $600 to have mine done including the gears. I had alredy installed axles, much less than the $2300 for a 12 bolt or 9" so yes I would go ahead and change out the axles. Aftermarket axles such as Moser, Strange are about 30% stronger than stock and only about $250 from *ummit or Je*s, have your axle tubes welded completly on and buy a rear girdle, all together it cost about a grand to build up the 10 bolt. and you might also want to have your drive shaft serviced (new U joints and re balanced) nows a good time to replace the trans mount too, and with 4.10 and a 10 bolt I would install a driveshft safety hoop because if you loose the driveshft powershifting a Fbody you will usally set off the airbags (the sensor is under the armrest on the tunnel) and you will need to have your PCM updated to correct your speedometer to the gear swap. good luck

Daryn

iTrader: (19)

u will break your gear's way before you break one of your axles. i wouldn't touch em,

u can do whatever you want to your 7.5'' 10 bolt.. but remember. its still a 10 bolt...

i would start lookin into possible a used 12 bolt or 9'' on here or if someone in your area has one for sale at a good price to scoop it up. once you start making mad powerz your car is going to spit that rear out




as for gears it would be smart to get a master install kit with all the new bearings and replace everything with your new gears!

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

leave the axles stock you will be fine

Anthony Williams

iTrader: (3)

True axel breakage even in a 10 bolt is rare so let me make myself more clear, my comment to replace the axles is not exclusively based on the strength of the axles, but primarily on the wear at the bearing surfaces of the current axle which @ 74k mi. is substantial.
Those "fix it bearings" that will suppossidly run in an area on the axle that is not worn always leak. So, If I had the cash I would do (as I did) the axles and run a quality synthetic gear lube like Redline shockproof gearlube. remember the bearing race for the axle on a 10 bolt, is the axle.

Oh and replace those c clips they are cheap and the only thing holding the axles in!

wooddaniel

iTrader: (28)

Make sure you get the rear end girdle. Otherwise 4.10s are like throwing a hand grenade in there. Synthetic fluid is a must too. Mine has lasted me years with no problems so unless you are going for a radical H/C setup or FI you should be fine. No need to change out the axles

sspower23

Thanks guys.

I bought the 4.10 gears as well as a complete install kit (seals, bearings etc). Wheres the best place to buy the rearend girdle and what brand? Is the Redline shockproof synthetic gear lube the best? Thanks

Anthony Williams

iTrader: (3)

I got mine here about 6 yaers ago http://www.taperformance.com/products.asp?cat=48
as far as I know they were the first to market the diff girdle. But most of the sponsers carry them.
The Redline shock proof gear lube was recommended by the tech who rebuilt mine at Hoopers rear end exchange, Mobile tends to thin out and sling off easily, I have to say pumping this stuff in it definently looks and flows differently from Mobile 1, break your new gears in (200 mi. not at one time but with plenty of heat cycles before you get on them) on regular petroleum based gearlube though.

Some good info here! http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...ild/index.html

and here! http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...olt/index.html