4.10's and gear whine?
#1
Staging Lane
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4.10's and gear whine?
I just bought this car so I am getting used to it. Stock rear end with I'm not sure the brand of 4.10's.
First the circumstances of what I am hearing. In 5th and 6th gear only, obviously upper speeds 60+, under the slightest of throttle, there is a pretty noticeable whine from the rear. Nothing when coasting at these speeds though, and nothing in lower gears.
Now I understand this is fairly common from what I have already read. But is this just an accepted consequence of aftermarket gears? Can a real good, experienced guy make these things stock quiet? Could this be a potential problem in my future indicating these are not set up correctly?
More importantly, to handle the power of this car, a new rear is in my future. Those of you with an aftermarket rear, are they quiet? Say a Moser 12 bolt or 9" with 4.10's? What about those with the reputable Midwest Fabrication 9"? I understand there are trade offs to high horsepower, but I think I would shoot myself going on a road trip in this thing. I want to make it stock quiet. Is this a reasonably possible expectation?
First the circumstances of what I am hearing. In 5th and 6th gear only, obviously upper speeds 60+, under the slightest of throttle, there is a pretty noticeable whine from the rear. Nothing when coasting at these speeds though, and nothing in lower gears.
Now I understand this is fairly common from what I have already read. But is this just an accepted consequence of aftermarket gears? Can a real good, experienced guy make these things stock quiet? Could this be a potential problem in my future indicating these are not set up correctly?
More importantly, to handle the power of this car, a new rear is in my future. Those of you with an aftermarket rear, are they quiet? Say a Moser 12 bolt or 9" with 4.10's? What about those with the reputable Midwest Fabrication 9"? I understand there are trade offs to high horsepower, but I think I would shoot myself going on a road trip in this thing. I want to make it stock quiet. Is this a reasonably possible expectation?
Last edited by mfb_birdman; 02-14-2010 at 08:45 AM.
#3
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Mine whine like a bitch but they were used when i bought them and for what i've heard its hard to not have used gears whine. As far as failure i think you'll be ok. Most guys rear end whine and they take tons of abuse
#4
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any stock 10 bolt will whine if u do anything other than normal driving. i have had 2 sets of 410's n my car and they all start out fine but after a day at the track or a few street races they start making noise. i now have a 12 bolt with a spool and it isnt as bad
#6
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If they are not set up correctly and then ran, you cannot fix it. Time for another gears set and have them done properly. Someone who does it for a living. Not just a repair shop. If set up properly, they shouldn't whine no matter how many miles or how hard you drive it.
#7
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used gears only whine when they arent setup right. if they arent set up with the same pattern and backlash they were broke in at new, they will whine. plain and simple. not saying its totally your fault, but when buying used gears, if the seller does not provide you with a pattern and backlash specs, they are worthless (IMO). they will wear faster and arent as strong because now only a small portion of the pinion tooth is contacting the ring gear.
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#8
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Dont know why, but 4.10's in a 10 bolt just do not run dead silent. I set up several and they all had a tad bit of whine and showed good patterns. Sumpin about the 10 bolt.
My 9" 4.11's have a teeny tiny amount of whine but quieter than the 10 bolt. The M6 tranny whine will mostly drown out the rear end. The 9" by a long shot is the easiest gear setup because you can take the gear case off and set it on the bench. You can run the pattern and make very fast adjustments without having to take a 12" or Dana in and out. In and out.
My 9" 4.11's have a teeny tiny amount of whine but quieter than the 10 bolt. The M6 tranny whine will mostly drown out the rear end. The 9" by a long shot is the easiest gear setup because you can take the gear case off and set it on the bench. You can run the pattern and make very fast adjustments without having to take a 12" or Dana in and out. In and out.
#9
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the hardest part about the 9 inch is getting the pinion preload right. i imagine its a little easier with a crush sleeve, but crush sleeves are worthless in the high performance world.
changing shims, press it together, press it apart, change shims, press it together, press it apart change shims....finally its right. then press it apart one more time just to check pinion depth. this is especially hard when your press it half way across the shop from your work bench.
changing shims, press it together, press it apart, change shims, press it together, press it apart change shims....finally its right. then press it apart one more time just to check pinion depth. this is especially hard when your press it half way across the shop from your work bench.
#11
I don't know how you guys even hear a whine! After I got my gears setup I can barely hear anything over my exhaust But maybe mine are just that quiet... I've heard of guys draining their rear end fluids and putting extra(more than one bottle) of limited slip additive in with a really high quality gear oil ( I recommend Amzoil ) and having their whine go away or at least reduce greatly. Idk it might be worth a try.
#12
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I don't know how you guys even hear a whine! After I got my gears setup I can barely hear anything over my exhaust But maybe mine are just that quiet... I've heard of guys draining their rear end fluids and putting extra(more than one bottle) of limited slip additive in with a really high quality gear oil ( I recommend Amzoil ) and having their whine go away or at least reduce greatly. Idk it might be worth a try.
#13
Limited slip additive quiets the operation of your clutches in the carrier housing. It also allows them to keep from burning up in 200 miles I have a torsen diff. which doesn't require it but after I put it in it was quieter. Basically better fluids=better cushion between the gears and more efficient clutch operation
#15
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Limited slip additive quiets the operation of your clutches in the carrier housing. It also allows them to keep from burning up in 200 miles I have a torsen diff. which doesn't require it but after I put it in it was quieter. Basically better fluids=better cushion between the gears and more efficient clutch operation
first off, all LSD additive is is a friction modifier. all it does is make the clutches slip. one bottle with the rest gear lube, and its done.
your torsen doesnt have clutches, so the LSD additive did nothing. the new gear lube probably quieted it down.
again, all the additive does is make the clutches slip so it goes around a corner like its supposed to. not quiet anything down or make the gear lube "better"
#16
well you started out right....
first off, all LSD additive is is a friction modifier. all it does is make the clutches slip. one bottle with the rest gear lube, and its done.
your torsen doesnt have clutches, so the LSD additive did nothing. the new gear lube probably quieted it down.
again, all the additive does is make the clutches slip so it goes around a corner like its supposed to. not quiet anything down or make the gear lube "better"
first off, all LSD additive is is a friction modifier. all it does is make the clutches slip. one bottle with the rest gear lube, and its done.
your torsen doesnt have clutches, so the LSD additive did nothing. the new gear lube probably quieted it down.
again, all the additive does is make the clutches slip so it goes around a corner like its supposed to. not quiet anything down or make the gear lube "better"
I had new fluid in it but no additive at i had a noise
i drained at and put a bottle of it in cuz several techs recommended it to me along with some fresh amzoil there was no more noise
it did its job exactly as described. It modified the friction between the worm gears to have them mesh more quietly i had 129000 on that diff when i changed gears so they were a little worn out and didn't mesh the same once disturbed so they needed a little extra help to get back into the grove. but yes i am aware that it is not needed for torsen but it doesn't hurt anything if ya do.
#17
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my grammer not so good lol i know what does
I had new fluid in it but no additive at i had a noise
i drained at and put a bottle of it in cuz several techs recommended it to me along with some fresh amzoil there was no more noise
it did its job exactly as described. It modified the friction between the worm gears to have them mesh more quietly i had 129000 on that diff when i changed gears so they were a little worn out and didn't mesh the same once disturbed so they needed a little extra help to get back into the grove. but yes i am aware that it is not needed for torsen but it doesn't hurt anything if ya do.
I had new fluid in it but no additive at i had a noise
i drained at and put a bottle of it in cuz several techs recommended it to me along with some fresh amzoil there was no more noise
it did its job exactly as described. It modified the friction between the worm gears to have them mesh more quietly i had 129000 on that diff when i changed gears so they were a little worn out and didn't mesh the same once disturbed so they needed a little extra help to get back into the grove. but yes i am aware that it is not needed for torsen but it doesn't hurt anything if ya do.
#18
Gears when set up properly do NOT WINE. I run a set of 513 HIGH IMPACT gears on the street and they are QUIET. If a set of gears WINE they are telling you something. The reason POSI SUPPLIMENTS are needed is because of the international treaty that bans WHALING. The sperm oils from a whale used to be an additive for the posi fluid. This would keep clutch packs from chattering on turns. I normally use one bottle per axle but if the chatter continues a second bottle is necessary. If your posi slips with additives its SHOT. If the clutches are setup properly the extra bottle of suppliment wont and should not cause posi slip. 90% of gear change problems for a whine condition is wrong pinion depth. All Ring and pinion gears are set on a GLEASON pattern machine for the correct pinion depth. On the 9" fords i have a set of honed out pinion bearings to make that setting a BREEZE. Some rear axles use shims behind the race to set pinion depth. All i do is eliminate the shims behind the race and shim the pinion behind the pinion poarch like a normal setup. Gear changes are not brain surgery its all about the SETTINGS and they have to be DEAD NUTS. I also never use a crush sleeve. When you have a contract to service local POLICE cars you better know how to build a final DRIVE. Hope this helps.
Last edited by tom falco; 02-22-2010 at 05:15 AM.
#19
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i agree with this, except one thing...which seems to be a common problem here.
a lot of ppl buy used gears, set them up CORRECTLY and wonder why they whine still. they dont understand, if the gears were setup incorrectly when new, they will whine no matter what you do when you set them up correctly the second time. when buying used gears, you have to set them up exactly the way they were broke in when new, weather it is right or wrong.
a lot of ppl buy used gears, set them up CORRECTLY and wonder why they whine still. they dont understand, if the gears were setup incorrectly when new, they will whine no matter what you do when you set them up correctly the second time. when buying used gears, you have to set them up exactly the way they were broke in when new, weather it is right or wrong.
#20
i agree with this, except one thing...which seems to be a common problem here.
a lot of ppl buy used gears, set them up CORRECTLY and wonder why they whine still. they dont understand, if the gears were setup incorrectly when new, they will whine no matter what you do when you set them up correctly the second time. when buying used gears, you have to set them up exactly the way they were broke in when new, weather it is right or wrong.
a lot of ppl buy used gears, set them up CORRECTLY and wonder why they whine still. they dont understand, if the gears were setup incorrectly when new, they will whine no matter what you do when you set them up correctly the second time. when buying used gears, you have to set them up exactly the way they were broke in when new, weather it is right or wrong.