Noise after pinion bearings
03-20-2010, 09:01 AM
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Noise after pinion bearings I had a grinding noise from the rear so I pulled the pinion seal and found the front bearing and race were damaged. I took the whole rear apart and found everything else looked good. I replaced the inner and outer pinion bearings and races, and use a new crush sleeve and pinion nut. When tightening the pinion nut, it got a little too tight so I backed it off and got it around 20-25" lbs of rotational drag. Everything went back together with the same washers/shims and everything seemed fine. I also put new U joints in the drive shaft. After a few miles it started a noticeable noise from the rear. Did overtightening the pinion nut mess me up, even though I loosened it back up?
03-20-2010, 09:34 AM
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You cant go back and uncrush the crush sleeve. Thats where your problem lies I believe. During mock-ups with no crush sleeve, I have gotten the bearings too tight and they have been fine, as long as the final install is done correctly. Good luck 
03-20-2010, 09:50 AM
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when the car is lifted off the ground and running the noise is not present. on the road however it can be heard. I would think it would make noise even when on the lift.
03-20-2010, 12:21 PM
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You said you got it to around 20-25 inch/pounds. Well what was it exactly?? With a correctly set-up rear end, you should know the exact amount. I always set mine to 25, thats with NO posi/diff installed.
03-20-2010, 06:10 PM
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ah i see. I recommend the more correct wrench for the next time you do it.
This is the one I have:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TORQU...motiveQ5fTools
This is the one I have:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TORQU...motiveQ5fTools
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03-30-2010, 05:52 AM
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I took the whole rearend apart again. the bearings and races all looked to be fine. I replaced the crush sleeve (like I should have done immediately after over tightening it) and put the whole thing back together. This time it seems to be completely silent. I was only able to drive it a few miles and today its raining so it stayed in the garage. Real nice weather is on the way so I'll be able to test it and get some more miles on it.
This has been said before, and I had even read it myself - DO NOT TRY TO BACK OFF THE PINION NUT AFTER OVER TIGHTENING IT. TAKE IT ALL APART AND THROW AWAY THE CRUSH SLEEVE AND REPLACE IT WITH A NEW ONE. Being dumb (like me) and not following the correct procedures will have you doing it over again.
This has been said before, and I had even read it myself - DO NOT TRY TO BACK OFF THE PINION NUT AFTER OVER TIGHTENING IT. TAKE IT ALL APART AND THROW AWAY THE CRUSH SLEEVE AND REPLACE IT WITH A NEW ONE. Being dumb (like me) and not following the correct procedures will have you doing it over again.
12-01-2010, 08:50 PM
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Bringing back this thread to life, I've had to back them off already and had no trouble at all. I had a Camaro that a shop replaced the pinion seal and the IDIOT used a impact gun to tighten the nut. I was too sick at the time to fight over it and just took the car home. Next day i had a friend jack it up and pull the drive shaft. The pinion was way too tight, you could barely turn the yoke by hand. I had no choice but to back off the nut OVER a 1/4 a turn and it was still on the tight side. So what we did was pull the nut off and put blue lock tight on the threads, then tightened down the pinion nut until all the play was out of the bearings. Then just a little more to preload the bearings. I didn't bother to measure it because the crush sleeve was done so I just went with feel that it turned nice and free.
That was 100k miles ago and rear is still fine, The crush sleeve keeps the nut tight but you can do without it AS LONG AS YOU LOCK THE NUT WITH LOCKTITE OR TACK WELD<some guys don't even bother putting a crush sleeve in and tack weld the nut. You see that in drag racing alot.
That was 100k miles ago and rear is still fine, The crush sleeve keeps the nut tight but you can do without it AS LONG AS YOU LOCK THE NUT WITH LOCKTITE OR TACK WELD<some guys don't even bother putting a crush sleeve in and tack weld the nut. You see that in drag racing alot.
