Couldn't find a straight answer on rear end whining.
06-30-2010, 10:39 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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Couldn't find a straight answer on rear end whining. So I thought I would make my own thread. I just recently bought a 2000 Hurst T/A with 29,767 on the clock at time of delivery 6/28/10. Right off the bat you could tell it had been sitting since the OEM rotors are DOA and the fluids (except engine oil) were from St Therese. Not to mention dust and grime pretty much ground into almost all the surfaces. Clean carfax, though.
However, once I had an independent inspection on it a problem was noticed: There was a whine coming from either the trans or the rear end. Now, hard shifting and dropping the clutch does result in a clunk but that's normal due to.. well driving a stick wrong (I'm out 4 years of practice so sue me). The odd thing was that through all 6 gears under acceleration there was a whining noise almost like a supercharger whine coming from the mid to rear end.
My Trans/Driveline guy thinks it could be a bearing thing. Does this at all sound like a common thing from just sitting and the fluids just not lubricating the bearings anymore?
However, once I had an independent inspection on it a problem was noticed: There was a whine coming from either the trans or the rear end. Now, hard shifting and dropping the clutch does result in a clunk but that's normal due to.. well driving a stick wrong (I'm out 4 years of practice so sue me). The odd thing was that through all 6 gears under acceleration there was a whining noise almost like a supercharger whine coming from the mid to rear end.
My Trans/Driveline guy thinks it could be a bearing thing. Does this at all sound like a common thing from just sitting and the fluids just not lubricating the bearings anymore?
06-30-2010, 11:31 PM
#2
Hey:
Sitting, without proper stowage prep being done is one of the hardest things a car can go through. That being said the stock 10 bolts whine even with a little abuse behind a 6spd. That car is low mileage, but sitting a little rust could have formed, and it does not take much if anything for those rears to make noise. Also, its worse if the fluids have been changed and the GM LSD specialty additive is not used. Before you go spending a ton of money on a weak rear end. You may want to give the rear end fluid, a quick change use a good gear oil about 2qts plus the additive and see how it goes. Last time I changed mine I used 75-140 synthetic, with the GM additive and it quieted down a little bit for the next 25,000 miles, but have since changed out that rear and went to something a little stronger, and thats even noisier, but its the gear set I chose, so I will live with it.
You may want to consider another stronger rear (Strange 12 bolt or S60, 8.8, or 9")sometime soon instead of at a later date, especially if you like banging gears, as they don't tend to last a long time behind a 6 spd. Good Luck.........
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
Sitting, without proper stowage prep being done is one of the hardest things a car can go through. That being said the stock 10 bolts whine even with a little abuse behind a 6spd. That car is low mileage, but sitting a little rust could have formed, and it does not take much if anything for those rears to make noise. Also, its worse if the fluids have been changed and the GM LSD specialty additive is not used. Before you go spending a ton of money on a weak rear end. You may want to give the rear end fluid, a quick change use a good gear oil about 2qts plus the additive and see how it goes. Last time I changed mine I used 75-140 synthetic, with the GM additive and it quieted down a little bit for the next 25,000 miles, but have since changed out that rear and went to something a little stronger, and thats even noisier, but its the gear set I chose, so I will live with it.
You may want to consider another stronger rear (Strange 12 bolt or S60, 8.8, or 9")sometime soon instead of at a later date, especially if you like banging gears, as they don't tend to last a long time behind a 6 spd. Good Luck.........
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
Last edited by 1993 z28 f1; 06-30-2010 at 11:39 PM.
06-30-2010, 11:35 PM
#3
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Change all fluids. I agree with Dub; an unproperly prepared stored car can have a lot of problems when it is used again. This is why when you buy a car it is always a good idea to ask how long its been sitting, how long they've had it and how often it was used. Seals go bad, leaks develop, rust forms, and things break.
06-30-2010, 11:46 PM
#4
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I purchased this car from a dealership who in turn didn't ask much of the previous owner but "sign on the dotted line for your new 5.0".
For all I know it could have been traded by the owners son or something.
I've seen it on a lift and the only rust is just some oxidation on the headers, shocks/struts, and various places on the pipes.
Having put 150 miles on it now it's smoothed out quite a bit but I'm still going to check the trans oil and rear end oil. All I'm getting is just a whine; no grinding or anything. If that's just the gears being the way they are I can live with it (Added to the stock LS1 note on heavy acceleration it actually sounds kinda nice). I just don't want to start making metal and turning a job that could have cost $70 bucks into a $1K+ job.
As for upgrading to a stronger rear; that's going to be a while off. So for now I'm going to make due with the stock rear and put some more miles on it before I start tinkering.
For all I know it could have been traded by the owners son or something.
I've seen it on a lift and the only rust is just some oxidation on the headers, shocks/struts, and various places on the pipes.
Having put 150 miles on it now it's smoothed out quite a bit but I'm still going to check the trans oil and rear end oil. All I'm getting is just a whine; no grinding or anything. If that's just the gears being the way they are I can live with it (Added to the stock LS1 note on heavy acceleration it actually sounds kinda nice). I just don't want to start making metal and turning a job that could have cost $70 bucks into a $1K+ job.
As for upgrading to a stronger rear; that's going to be a while off. So for now I'm going to make due with the stock rear and put some more miles on it before I start tinkering.
06-30-2010, 11:52 PM
#5
Hey:
Good point on changing all fluids, rear end, trans, engine, power steering, coolant, and brake. And grease every grease point you can find. I was hoping he had already done most of this before he drove it much, but then you never really know do ya. Most people just tend to forget about the rear end as they have such a long change interval. Thats why I didn't mention it, but glad you did. Thanks, Good Catch, maybe the OP can chime in and let us know he had already done this, or not.
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
Good point on changing all fluids, rear end, trans, engine, power steering, coolant, and brake. And grease every grease point you can find. I was hoping he had already done most of this before he drove it much, but then you never really know do ya. Most people just tend to forget about the rear end as they have such a long change interval. Thats why I didn't mention it, but glad you did. Thanks, Good Catch, maybe the OP can chime in and let us know he had already done this, or not.
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
06-30-2010, 11:59 PM
#6
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Fluid change is numero uno on the agenda. Engine Oil just was changed 3 days ago but the rest I have no clue. Rear and trans are next. I may as well have the brakes drained and reoiled when I change out the rotors.
As far as grease points, I had called that into my mechanic to inspect them during pre-buy and he gave an all clear on the car for the most part except for 3 areas: Trans, Rear, and Brakes. And that's why I'm here scratching my head at the whine. Lack of lube due to old oil or something else? Again, it's my first real performance car so I've never experienced half this stuff on my previous vehicles.
As far as grease points, I had called that into my mechanic to inspect them during pre-buy and he gave an all clear on the car for the most part except for 3 areas: Trans, Rear, and Brakes. And that's why I'm here scratching my head at the whine. Lack of lube due to old oil or something else? Again, it's my first real performance car so I've never experienced half this stuff on my previous vehicles.
07-01-2010, 12:28 AM
#7
Hey:
Do a quick Oil filter only change, within the first few hundred miles to help get rid of any unwanted residue, and then change it all again with the oil & filter you plan on using the 1st sign of getting any darken color change. Use good filters at min Wix or NAPA gold, oil any dino or synth you like, just change often dino(2-3000 miles) less often synth (3-5000 miles) and use the same interval and keep it clean. You can get a Used Engine Oil Anaylses (UOA) done to see, if your change interval is adequet or not. Check out www.bobistheoilguy.com for more info and reading on this topic. Good Luck with the car and hope you enjoy yours as much as I do mine.
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
Do a quick Oil filter only change, within the first few hundred miles to help get rid of any unwanted residue, and then change it all again with the oil & filter you plan on using the 1st sign of getting any darken color change. Use good filters at min Wix or NAPA gold, oil any dino or synth you like, just change often dino(2-3000 miles) less often synth (3-5000 miles) and use the same interval and keep it clean. You can get a Used Engine Oil Anaylses (UOA) done to see, if your change interval is adequet or not. Check out www.bobistheoilguy.com for more info and reading on this topic. Good Luck with the car and hope you enjoy yours as much as I do mine.
Dub
When In Doubt Do Without
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07-01-2010, 07:52 PM
#11
Staging Lane
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It's neither. It's actually on acceleration only. Currently having the trans flushed and the rear end re-oiled so they'll have it opened up anyhow. Also asked one of the techs (a former T/A owner himself) to take it around the block a few times before and after the changes to see if anything can be isolated beyond old oil/lack of lube.
As for the trans mount it's specifically felt at the rear so I think it's more a 'dump the clutch and the rear grabs the shaft' kinda thing. Motor spinning to slow/fast in relation to the diff is how I'm seeing it.
As for the trans mount it's specifically felt at the rear so I think it's more a 'dump the clutch and the rear grabs the shaft' kinda thing. Motor spinning to slow/fast in relation to the diff is how I'm seeing it.
07-01-2010, 09:53 PM
#12
It's neither. It's actually on acceleration only. Currently having the trans flushed and the rear end re-oiled so they'll have it opened up anyhow. Also asked one of the techs (a former T/A owner himself) to take it around the block a few times before and after the changes to see if anything can be isolated beyond old oil/lack of lube.
As for the trans mount it's specifically felt at the rear so I think it's more a 'dump the clutch and the rear grabs the shaft' kinda thing. Motor spinning to slow/fast in relation to the diff is how I'm seeing it.
As for the trans mount it's specifically felt at the rear so I think it's more a 'dump the clutch and the rear grabs the shaft' kinda thing. Motor spinning to slow/fast in relation to the diff is how I'm seeing it.
Then you prolly don't have a problem you are just not used to these noisy rearends......
As for the second part of your post make sure the torque arm is not banging......
07-02-2010, 06:29 AM
#13
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Yeah, the more I look into it the more I think it's all worrying about nothing. I mean this is my first extended drive in an F-body and my first time owning one. I'll know later today anyway once I get the word from the shop.
07-02-2010, 11:36 AM
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If the noise is bothering you too much and the rear end is fine you can get some noise dampering material and do the whole trunk area up to the rear seats, including the wheel wells. That help mine quiet down a bit.
07-02-2010, 04:00 PM
#16
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No, it really isn't. I honestly like it (seriously). Got the car back and the news was no damage whatsoever from sitting. It's a relief and a lesson in F-Body 101 too. Thanks for the info guys and hopefully someone who stumbles on this thread can get some use out of it in the future.
07-03-2010, 12:39 AM
#17
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Check and see if its a stock stamped torque arm or was swapped to an aftermarket one. i broke my stock one and swapped for a body mounted t/a from umi. being that it is mounted directly beneath the seats alot more noise/"clunk" is transfered to the passenger compartment. hope this helps good luck!
07-09-2010, 03:14 AM
#19
Not sure if this has already been covered but my car had a similar problem. Didn't matter if it was in gear or out of gear...the car had a whine coming from the mid to rear of the car. Also got louder with speed. Turned out it was the carrier bearings.
07-18-2010, 07:18 AM
#20
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im in the same boat i have motive performance 390 gears and over the past 2 days they have gotten so loud should i just get new bearings for the 3rd time and which brand if i do so. also only makes noise on decel and feels weird when in 3rd at a little under 2 grand like something is about to break. also what fluid should i use cause im using redline atm
