BlackBirds

iTrader: (24)

I'm looking into getting a PST carbon fiber driveshaft and am curious about what they can hold. From what I've heard the carbon fiber driveshafts are stronger than aluminums, but weaker than steals. I've got 402whp now with a MWC 9", T56 tranny, and M/T drag radials. In the future I plan to be making 500whp or maybe even 600whp on nitrous. Think a carbon fiber shaft would hold up?

96onele

Carbon fiber driveshafts are strong and light. However, if you get a nick in the carbon fiber, the structural integrity can be adversely affected. A 3.5" aluminum should hold up to your power levels.

ElkySS

iTrader: (6)

ur gonna pay 750+ for a driveshaft? why? just get the pst aluminum. its warrantied to 1200 hp and cost 450

69TA

iTrader: (263)

I have an acpt cf driveshaft and it's strong as hell.
they use them for military and heavy commercial use

CF is also very light = more power

CF driveshafts do not need a driveshaft loops, those things would bottoms out over every speed bump or
low driveway

only down side is the price

CTrickle1

First of all I'd like to say that for the most part, in a street car which is built moderately (400-600 HP) the drive shaft is going to have very little impact on the overall performance. Secondly, CF drive shafts are not better for every application. CF shafts are lighter but lighter doesn't mean more power. It means quicker power as in quicker rev'ing due to less rotating mass . However, quicker rev'ing also means quicker deceleration so your walking a fine line there. I know some of you may argue this but at the end of the day were dealing with very small HP numbers of variation if theres any at all. For what application is the car used? Any knowledgeable drag racer will tell you that more rotating mass or inertia is better and for road racing light weight and quick rev'ing is more ideal. Bottom line is, do your research throughly before you blow your money on something that isn't necessary for you application. LS1tech is an awesome source for info but I would also make some phone calls to different businesses who are involved with selling different types of drive shafts.

69TA

iTrader: (263)

with that said then why is everyone
on here looking to buy an aluminum driveshaft?

my heavy steel driveshaft that's sitting the corner of my garage should be a hot commodity
for drag racers.

BlackBirds

iTrader: (24)

Thanks to everyone that chimed in! My car is primarily a street car that sees the track about twice a year. The reason I am considering a carbon fiber driveshaft is faster revving due to less rotational mass and the fact that they wont snap in half and destroy your under body, they'll just unravel if they fail.

How easy is it for a carbon fiber driveshaft to take a hit strong enough to damage it?

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Here we go again with the carbon fiber driveshaft theories

When I talked to PST years ago, they told me straight up that in my application (bolt-ons only LS1) it was WAY overkill. I remember the guy saying something to the effect of "guys go with carbon fiber driveshafts when they can't find anything else that will hold the power." They actually said the 1350 joints would probably be the weak point.

Carbon fiber shafts are very strong. Yes, they are supposedly succeptible to brooming if they get nicked, but I have yet to have any problems. I bought the driveshaft in the spring of 2006, installed it, and drove it daily until August 2006 in Florida, and continued to drive it daily here in Dayton, OH throughout the winter until the following May (2007). Once I bought my truck, the car became a garage queen, so it only sees 3-4k miles per year at most, and only in good weather. Not a true test of durability since it is no longer a daily driver, but it is still holding up just fine under there. It isn't like it is in the direct line of fire from tires flinging **** up at it constantly...

I'm not sure how much power my car makes, but I can assure you that it is a heavy *** SOB - 3,850-3,900 pounds with me behind the wheel (it has a 12-bolt, all aftermarket stereo equipment, heavy-*** SLP subframe connectors, sound deadening, and the list goes on). I don't live my life a quarter mile at a time, but I can assure you that this thing gets beat on every time it is on the road. I'm sure it will continue to hold up when I get around to having an engine built within the next couple of years.

The only downside? The cost. I think mine was $900-ish delivered, but it is a 3.75" diameter shaft with 1350 joints front and rear that weighs the same as the stock aluminum driveshaft.

dtroike

iTrader: (4)

the biggest advantage of these driveshafts is the vibration dampening ability. The critical speed of an aluminum driveline is higher than steel and a carbon fiber one is significantly higher than that. If you drive at extremely high speeds them it might be worth it. If not, I would save the money and go with an aluminum driveshaft instead.

Mike Morris

iTrader: (55)

I have one in my car and beat it pretty well at the track(17.-1.64 sixtys). I noticed right away how smooth it was on the highway at 65 MPH and up. Overkill? Maybe. But I wanted it and it would help on my quest to go faster and get lighter without gutting or destroying the looks of the car

Have had one on my 11 sec Supra since 02-countless beatings(its a stick) blah blah. No problems

I really like them.

Black02SLPSS

iTrader: (5)

Just so everyone knows i dont own a carbon fiber driveshaft, yet. With that said i work with this type material damned near everyday building aircraft and i will say that you would really hafta hit it quite hard in order to damage it to a point to risk having a failure. When people get to talking about "getting a nick in it" or whatever they make it sound like the stuff has the impact resistance of paper mache. With where it is located its pretty well protected from getting stuff thrown at it, and to be honest you would probably end up damaging it from running over something. But if you were to run over something that was enough to damage the shaft (regardless of what material its made out of) your probably damaging other things besides that component. Anyway just my .02

BlackBirds

iTrader: (24)

thanks for the input! I'm pretty sure I've decided to go with the carbon fiber. I just don't want to have to worry about it breaking. Black02SLPSS, what you said makes a lot of sense...people do make it sound like if a rock pops up and hits it the thing will just disentigrate. Sure it doesn't have the impact resistance of steal, but I'm sure its still pretty tough stuff.

yooperLS6

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

Considering I drove mine daily for an entire winter with all of the salt, rocks, and other random **** that was put down on the roads, I'm just not that concerned with **** flying up and doing any significant damage. The last time I had it out a few months ago, it still looked like it did when I pulled it out of the box years ago.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Sorry to bump this up, but I am researching drive shaft options and came across this not-to-old thread.

One point I didn't see analyzed is the torsional spring rate of the various materials. What would be more ideal...?

boosted4life

iTrader: (4)

Don't go carbon fiber. F-body drive shafts have a bad habit of hitting the e-brake cable bracket, exhaust, or torque arm. If it even comes in contact once it will blow out that carbon fiber shaft.

Big_Bird_WS6

iTrader: (7)

i just got a PST 4" alumi. they told me it will halde 1200 plus. the carbon is even more for that.

only thing about CF is the glue they use. you have to keep the exhuast away from that

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Is this from personal experience? I am not trying to be sarcastic, I am really asking.

I am not worrying about holding power as much as torsional spring rate. I want the DS to be able to twist. This will help with overloading the tires, stock transmission mainshaft, and snap failure. Also, with carbon fiber I could reduce the diameter as the radius has more bearing on MOI than weight does. Also, as stated above, if it does fail, there will be minimal damage to other components.

Just kicking around ideas for now. The standard 3.5" carbon fiber unit goes for around $850 I believe.

Big_Bird_WS6

iTrader: (7)

more closer to 1050. lol.

1SLwLS1

iTrader: (6)

Is PST's website leaving something out?