Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

I was told that it wasnt possible by one of the guys at Denny's driveshaft and Im hoping its not true. The guy said that they build them with a 1350 something and it doesnt fit in the rearend housing. He also said that no one sell the part that goes in the 10 that will allow the 1350 to fit. He said my only option was to buy a 12 bolt or 9"! Is this true?! Is there anyone out there running one with a 10 bolt?

The Big Show

iTrader: (2)

I am running one in my 10 bolt...not sure why they said that.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Are you running the Nitrous Ready shaft? Did you have to modify anything in the rear end for the shaft to fit? Do you have an older version of the 10 bolt or the 10 bolt that came equipped with the car?

NOBR8KSS

iTrader: (12)

If the driveshaft comes with a 1350 u-joint, then it will not fit into the 98-02 10-bolt yoke. The stock 10-bolt requires a 1310 u-joint.
You could install a conversion u-joint that will fit in the 1350 u-joint holes on the driveshaft, and the 1310 u-joint saddle on the 10-bolt yoke, but it would probably void the warranty on the driveshaft. I think the sponsors carry those.
I have the Denny's HD 3" steel driveshaft in my car...it is a very nice piece.

The Big Show

iTrader: (2)

Exactly what he said

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

If I was to search through the sponsors, which sponsors would I find the kit at? Also, what exactly would I be looking for? What would make it void the warranty? Would the shaft be built any shorter or longer? Could I later on take that kit off so that I could use the shaft for the 12 bolt that I plan on getting down the road? Would using that kit make the set up weaker or more likely to break? Sorry for all the questions. I just want to see if I can get around this or not. I sure hate to buy the HD steel one now and have to buy the nitrous ready one when I upgrade to the 12 bolt. I know that I dont have to, but Id rather have the nitrous ready. Thanks.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

So I take it that you had to convert or use the kit on your rear to use the nitrous ready shaft? If so, how hard was it to convert or install the kit? Was it worth it? Where did you buy the kit from? Thanks

NOBR8KSS

iTrader: (12)

Well, you need a conversion u-joint. The driveshaft takes a 1350 u-joint, but the rear-end yoke takes a 1310.
I doubt the sponsors will list them on their sites...but you can call any of the sponsors who deal in Moser or Strange 12-bolts because they require the conversion u-joint to work the the stock driveshaft. They can most likely hook you up with one. I think Napa carries them also.
It may void the warranty because you are replacing a part that Denny's installed with a part that you are installing. The driveshaft is guaranteed to perform with the 1350 u-joint, not the conversion u-joint.
You would want to save the 1350 u-joint to use later when you are ready to install a 12-bolt or 9" rear-end. You can swap between the two pretty easily. All you need is a pair of snap-ring pliers and some patience.

1fastWS6

iTrader: (3)

Do you *need* to have a new DS now? If not, just wait until you get the 12 bolt / 9". Doubtful that you'll break the stock DS before you break the rear end. When I put my 12 bolt in, the DS needed to be about 1/2" - 3/4" shorter to fit so I had one custom made.

If you get the Denny's now, you'll have to mess with converting to the smaller, weaker 1310 U-joint AND probably need to have it shortened later anyway.

Not a good idea IMO.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Regardless, I need a driveshaft now because without it my car will not move. I just did a complete conversion from an M6 to a 200-4R and my stock driveshaft it too short. My intentions were to hold onto the 10 bolt until it broke and then upgrade to the 12 bolt. I was going to get the Nitrous Ready built for my 10 bolt now and then I can have it shortened later for the 12 bolt. I wouldnt have to change anything on the driveshaft but the length. They will not make them with the 1310 u-joints. I was told by Denny himself that I can go buy a 1350 yolk from a Astro Van/Safari and install it in my 10 bolt and it will work with the Nitrous Ready shafts. Then when I order my 12 bolt, I order it with the 1350 yolk so that nothing has to be swapped on the shaft, just shortened. If I wasnt able to convert the rear end, then I was going to buy the HD steel one now, and then when the 10 bolt blew, buy the 12 bolt and a Nitrous Ready shaft. Thats how I wanted to do it if I had no choice, but now that I have an option, it can save me lots of time, money, and hassle. Thanks.