F Body 10 bolt is it worth it
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F Body 10 bolt is it worth it
Can you build a bullet proof 10 bolt with axles, posi unit and gears or is it just not worth it ???? The 10 bolt is way lighter than any thing else out there right....and do all of the 10 bolts out there sing when your going down the road because that will just kill it for me I just dont want to here the noise..
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Buy a fabricated Moser 9 inch or a midwest chassis fab rear end. Both are good choices and both come with a custom torque arm. They also weigh about the same, or closest to a 10 bolt than any other rear end.
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any sort of gear, especially in a 10 bolt will whine a bit, yuoll get over it, just get the exhaust louder or turn the radio up. Its one of those things where you pay to play. My 4.56s whine as loud as my 10 bolt did when it was on the way out but everytime i hit the loud pedal it reminds my why i love them
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I didnt think any company came up with anything really worth putting in the 10bolt.. i just thought i ask.. when mine goes I just put in a 12 bolt and I think that will be about 2 hours after the cars running and tuned ...because I know how I am to stupid to lift
#10
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10-bolt to ?
Yes the 10-bolt leaves a lot to be desired.
The 12-bolt is not to be sneered at though, it is capable of taking a car deep in the 10 sec et's and quicker!
A 9" is capable of geez who knows how quick, is it necessary? Only if You are planning on going very fast. Is it desirable? Yes? But more for bragging rights and re-sale value than necessity.
A 12-bolt has the pinion 1.50" below the center line of the ring gear compared to 2.25" on the 9", which is why the 12-bolt is rated by Strange Eng. as 3% more efficient than a 9".
Hope this helps.
Carl
The 12-bolt is not to be sneered at though, it is capable of taking a car deep in the 10 sec et's and quicker!
A 9" is capable of geez who knows how quick, is it necessary? Only if You are planning on going very fast. Is it desirable? Yes? But more for bragging rights and re-sale value than necessity.
A 12-bolt has the pinion 1.50" below the center line of the ring gear compared to 2.25" on the 9", which is why the 12-bolt is rated by Strange Eng. as 3% more efficient than a 9".
Hope this helps.
Carl
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these 10 bolts will never be bullet proof. if you are capable to doing work yourself and have the parts then why not just build it just for kicks. thats what im doing. i have a locker, moser axles and a housing with welded axle tubes. all of that i got for free. now im gonna get a ta cover for it and put braces on it and of course the braces and rebuild kit with shims, bearings, seals, and crush sleeve will be the most expensive part and still cheaper but it should hold up for some dr launches lol
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https://www.brutespeed.com/rear_end_information.htm Bob
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#13
my 3.73's in the 10 bolt sound stock. PERFECTLY quiet. not saying its normal at all, but its not a given that gears will always whine. I did have mine professionsally installed by a shop around here, so i paid to have it like that, but for me it was worth it.
Yes the 10-bolt leaves a lot to be desired.
The 12-bolt is not to be sneered at though, it is capable of taking a car deep in the 10 sec et's and quicker!
A 9" is capable of geez who knows how quick, is it necessary? Only if You are planning on going very fast. Is it desirable? Yes? But more for bragging rights and re-sale value than necessity.
A 12-bolt has the pinion 1.50" below the center line of the ring gear compared to 2.25" on the 9", which is why the 12-bolt is rated by Strange Eng. as 3% more efficient than a 9".
Hope this helps.
Carl
The 12-bolt is not to be sneered at though, it is capable of taking a car deep in the 10 sec et's and quicker!
A 9" is capable of geez who knows how quick, is it necessary? Only if You are planning on going very fast. Is it desirable? Yes? But more for bragging rights and re-sale value than necessity.
A 12-bolt has the pinion 1.50" below the center line of the ring gear compared to 2.25" on the 9", which is why the 12-bolt is rated by Strange Eng. as 3% more efficient than a 9".
Hope this helps.
Carl
I'm in the mind set of the OP tho. It would be nice to have a built 10 bolt that can handle a 10 second car if it can keep the efficiency.
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10 bolts are crap for an M6 PERIOD. You must purchase a rear end to make a 6 speed car quick.
Absolutely it can be done.....in an auto. I have seen 100k rear ends take awful beatings in autos, even raising the front tires by being sprayed out of the hole. By beatings though I did not mean wheel hop or things of that nature.
Absolutely it can be done.....in an auto. I have seen 100k rear ends take awful beatings in autos, even raising the front tires by being sprayed out of the hole. By beatings though I did not mean wheel hop or things of that nature.
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[QUOTE=01ssreda4;14060782]10 bolts are crap for an M6 PERIOD. You must purchase a rear end to make a 6 speed car quick.
I have a friend running a m6. His car launches at 5600 rpms slipping the clutch on billet street lites, hooiser slicks on a stock 10 bolt with a TA cover, pinion spacer and shim kit on stock axles and with just a cam swap it ran a 7.6 in the 1/8th. I wouldnt say its impossible. Yes I realize a cam swap car and cut outs isn't a huge power maker but as we all know the stock 10 bolts can bust with just a stock Ls1. So I am highly impressed with how his built 10 bolt is holding up. Im not saying a 9" is not worth the money but if you are on a budget, a 10 bolt imo can be built up right to last some hard launches. I will be doing the same thing to my 10 bolt. For $600 price includes axles is WAY cheaper then $2500+ for a 9". If you are able to pay the price for a 9" then I would say go for it. I have nothing bad to say about the 9" but I am simply saying for a cheaper route you can skate by on a built 10 bolt for awhile. Ws6Store.com is a perfect place to buy the build kit and set of gears. I will be running a perfect launch ta cover, arp bolts, 4.11 gears, pinion spacer and shim kit with Moser axles. My z28 is roughly 400-420 rwhp H/C/I launching off Nitto NT05R drag radials M6 car with Monster Stage 2 LSX clutch and tick master cylinder. Hopefully the 10 bolt holds up as well as my buddies has.
I have a friend running a m6. His car launches at 5600 rpms slipping the clutch on billet street lites, hooiser slicks on a stock 10 bolt with a TA cover, pinion spacer and shim kit on stock axles and with just a cam swap it ran a 7.6 in the 1/8th. I wouldnt say its impossible. Yes I realize a cam swap car and cut outs isn't a huge power maker but as we all know the stock 10 bolts can bust with just a stock Ls1. So I am highly impressed with how his built 10 bolt is holding up. Im not saying a 9" is not worth the money but if you are on a budget, a 10 bolt imo can be built up right to last some hard launches. I will be doing the same thing to my 10 bolt. For $600 price includes axles is WAY cheaper then $2500+ for a 9". If you are able to pay the price for a 9" then I would say go for it. I have nothing bad to say about the 9" but I am simply saying for a cheaper route you can skate by on a built 10 bolt for awhile. Ws6Store.com is a perfect place to buy the build kit and set of gears. I will be running a perfect launch ta cover, arp bolts, 4.11 gears, pinion spacer and shim kit with Moser axles. My z28 is roughly 400-420 rwhp H/C/I launching off Nitto NT05R drag radials M6 car with Monster Stage 2 LSX clutch and tick master cylinder. Hopefully the 10 bolt holds up as well as my buddies has.
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For the sticky rear tire/hard launching/< 1.7 second 60'/450+ to the wheels use that it seems is all EVERYONE on here gives a damn about, yes, it IS WORTHLESS.
But, it is plenty strong enough to handle sane street driving on street compound tires, or road course/autocross use with power < 450 to the wheels, regardless of how sticky the (road racing) compound
In fact, there are road racing classes which require the use of the stock 10 bolt axle housing, whether you want to or not.
I want to go to a built, lightweight, 9" NOT for the launch handling capabilities, but so that I can get a diff worth a damn (bias ratio wise) for open tracking (Wavetrac, or Gold Trac).
So far, I believe these can ONLY be had for a 9" app.
But, it is plenty strong enough to handle sane street driving on street compound tires, or road course/autocross use with power < 450 to the wheels, regardless of how sticky the (road racing) compound
In fact, there are road racing classes which require the use of the stock 10 bolt axle housing, whether you want to or not.
I want to go to a built, lightweight, 9" NOT for the launch handling capabilities, but so that I can get a diff worth a damn (bias ratio wise) for open tracking (Wavetrac, or Gold Trac).
So far, I believe these can ONLY be had for a 9" app.
Last edited by dailydriver; 06-12-2013 at 04:08 PM.