Stock driveshaft + 12 bolt = bad idea?
11-09-2010, 03:45 PM
#1
Stock driveshaft + 12 bolt = bad idea? Okay so I just had a Moser 12 bolt installed this past Friday with my stock driveshaft. Question is, should I be investing in the 3.5" driveshaft (alum/chrom) now or can it survive a little bit? (still on stock ta, lcas, phb)
11-10-2010, 08:35 AM
#4
Can you drive it? Yes
Should you race/beat on it? No
If I do, what should I worry about? Making sure your AAA membership is paid up.
11-10-2010, 09:45 AM
#5
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ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
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ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
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11-10-2010, 10:12 AM
#8
Mine's 375HP with your rearend & stock driveshaft. Best time at the track 12.94 @ 113mph. Been to the track about 3 times on this setup. Gotta admit that my 60' times are slow by about .2 and no slicks or drag radials [easier on drive train]. Initially had a wheel hop issue that bent left side wheel studs. Drive shaft OK so far.
A dyno pull breaking a drive shaft? [no shock loads] Wow! Maybe already weakened?
A dyno pull breaking a drive shaft? [no shock loads] Wow! Maybe already weakened?
11-10-2010, 11:01 AM
#10
Mine's 375HP with your rearend & stock driveshaft. Best time at the track 12.94 @ 113mph. Been to the track about 3 times on this setup. Gotta admit that my 60' times are slow by about .2 and no slicks or drag radials [easier on drive train]. Initially had a wheel hop issue that bent left side wheel studs. Drive shaft OK so far.
A dyno pull breaking a drive shaft? [no shock loads] Wow! Maybe already weakened?
A dyno pull breaking a drive shaft? [no shock loads] Wow! Maybe already weakened?
LOL pm'd so I don't clutter the thread
11-16-2010, 11:43 PM
#15
I broke my factory aluminum shaft 5 yrs after everything in my sig went in in 2002...while doing 10 mph through a parking lot under no throttle...........then I put a steel one in........it lasted till I broke it about 2 months ago at about 80mph while cruising. Sheared clean like it was cut with a saw.
They'll all break when they're ready....even that 3.5" PST shaft..........
Most important thing to get is a front and rear drive shaft loop. You need one that craddles the shaft about 8 inches from the rear yoke to support any remaining shaft back there and one about 1 foot back from the front yoke. Thats the only way to keep a remaining piece of shaft in the rear from beating the hell out of things and possibly trashing your rear-end gear box.....not to mention hitting the pavement and launching the car into the air and killing your ***.
Those single DS loops that come on some torque arms.......they do nothing to keep the car from launching into the air.
.
They'll all break when they're ready....even that 3.5" PST shaft..........
Most important thing to get is a front and rear drive shaft loop. You need one that craddles the shaft about 8 inches from the rear yoke to support any remaining shaft back there and one about 1 foot back from the front yoke. Thats the only way to keep a remaining piece of shaft in the rear from beating the hell out of things and possibly trashing your rear-end gear box.....not to mention hitting the pavement and launching the car into the air and killing your ***.
Those single DS loops that come on some torque arms.......they do nothing to keep the car from launching into the air.
.
11-17-2010, 11:20 AM
#16
I broke my factory aluminum shaft 5 yrs after everything in my sig went in in 2002...while doing 10 mph through a parking lot under no throttle...........then I put a steel one in........it lasted till I broke it about 2 months ago at about 80mph while cruising. Sheared clean like it was cut with a saw.
They'll all break when they're ready....even that 3.5" PST shaft..........
Most important thing to get is a front and rear drive shaft loop. You need one that craddles the shaft about 8 inches from the rear yoke to support any remaining shaft back there and one about 1 foot back from the front yoke. Thats the only way to keep a remaining piece of shaft in the rear from beating the hell out of things and possibly trashing your rear-end gear box.....not to mention hitting the pavement and launching the car into the air and killing your ***.
Those single DS loops that come on some torque arms.......they do nothing to keep the car from launching into the air.
.
They'll all break when they're ready....even that 3.5" PST shaft..........
Most important thing to get is a front and rear drive shaft loop. You need one that craddles the shaft about 8 inches from the rear yoke to support any remaining shaft back there and one about 1 foot back from the front yoke. Thats the only way to keep a remaining piece of shaft in the rear from beating the hell out of things and possibly trashing your rear-end gear box.....not to mention hitting the pavement and launching the car into the air and killing your ***.
Those single DS loops that come on some torque arms.......they do nothing to keep the car from launching into the air.
.
^^^ what he said ^^
11-17-2010, 11:42 AM
#17
And if I at least had a front DS loop.........The remaining piece of the shaft that stayed in the tranny housing and spun for a little bit before it fell off would not have destroyed my tail housing. The loop would have just craddled it while it spun, but it would have stayed horizontal-to-the-ground......and I wouldn't have had to repair the tranny tail housing.
The other pics are the ~18" piece that remained attached to my rear-end gear box. It beat the **** out of the tunnel and my exhaust pipe. I'm lucky it didn't hit the ground and launch my car at 80mph.
****Dual loops....a must for race cars or street cars...IMO. I'm getting two installed.****
.
The other pics are the ~18" piece that remained attached to my rear-end gear box. It beat the **** out of the tunnel and my exhaust pipe. I'm lucky it didn't hit the ground and launch my car at 80mph.
****Dual loops....a must for race cars or street cars...IMO. I'm getting two installed.****
.
11-17-2010, 11:45 AM
#18
Alum DS on the top, steel on the bottom. Car is forged LS1 with 5.3 heads, MS4 cam, twin disk, stock T56 9" with 4.10s and a wide crappy nitto tire. The car just got done a week before. On the 4th launch it did that. Car went 8.0 at 93 the pass before it broke.
Car got out of the water box, then went to launch. 4k launch but no go. Twisted it like silly putty.
It is now circumsized.
Car got out of the water box, then went to launch. 4k launch but no go. Twisted it like silly putty.
It is now circumsized.
11-17-2010, 12:41 PM
#19
Thanks for the responses guys. I am now scared to **** to drive my car at 80mph lmfao
I'm only making 415whp 399wtq right now. I figured the 3.5" PST ds would be fine for me until I started adding more power or putting a different engine in. When I do start with more power a better/stronger drive shaft will be installed along with all the necessary safety equipment.
I'm only making 415whp 399wtq right now. I figured the 3.5" PST ds would be fine for me until I started adding more power or putting a different engine in. When I do start with more power a better/stronger drive shaft will be installed along with all the necessary safety equipment.
11-17-2010, 01:31 PM
#20
stock 4th gen driveshafts are ****, my buddy has twisted 2 on street tires in a bolt on 6 speed car with stock rear
I had a chromoly unit made in OKC for $220. But not before my old driveshaft took out a brand new transmission, knocked a hole in the floor, ruined the pinion yoke, and destroyed my duals on the dyno.
Cheap insurance.
I had a chromoly unit made in OKC for $220. But not before my old driveshaft took out a brand new transmission, knocked a hole in the floor, ruined the pinion yoke, and destroyed my duals on the dyno.
Cheap insurance.