Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Also, what does this kit consist of? I was also told that I could use the yolk off of a Astro Van or Safari and it would work with the 1350 u-joints. Obviously the vans came with a heavier duty rear, or at least the yolk. Is that true? If so, whats different about that and the kit that whichever sponsor carries it?

2ndly, do you think its worth changing out so that I could run a Denny's Nitrous Ready shaft? I hate to go with a steel one now, then upgrade later to the Nitrous Ready when I break the 10 bolt and upgrade to the 12 bolt. I rather just change out a fairly cheap part in my stock 10 bolt now to accept a Nitrous Ready shaft, and not have to buy another one when I do get the 12 bolt. All I would have to do is get it shortened. What do you think that I should do? Thanks a lot.

kp

iTrader: (34)

Juat use the 447 conversion joint (the one to use a stock shaft with a 1350 rear yoke) in the denny's shaft, when you get a rear with a 1350 yoke just use a regular 1350 joint - no use complicating things

If the length is correct for the 10 bolt a 9" or 12 bolt will work, at least it did for me..

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Denny's Nitrous shaft is built with a 1350 u-joint for both the shaft and the rear yolk. I asked if he could make it with the yoke that I needed, but he said no that he couldnt do that. He said my only option was to change out the yolk in the rear with a 1350 from the Astro Van/Safari. As I was thinking about it, the reason why he probably wont build it with the universal u-joint is because then they cant warranty it like they do. Makes sense to me.

kp

iTrader: (34)

Well I ran a denny's shaft with a 1350 yoke on my stock rear for a while. The driveshaft doesnt know what kind of yoke the rear has - thats the u-joints job..

As far as warranty if you break a u-joint and tear up the end of the driveshaft I doubt they will warranty it with any u-joint since the warranty is on the driveshaft failing, not the u-joint. So you are saying they will only warranty their driveshaft with the u-joints they install? Doesnt make sense to me

Just buy the driveshaft with the 1350 u-joint, swap the 447 in when you get it, put the 1350 joint back in when you put in your 12 bolt..

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Well...I took the original yolk off and put the one with that accepts the 1350 u-joint. It was really simple...just take the big nut off, and use a puller to get it off and voila! Put a little oil on the teeth of the new one, and slip it on. It didnt go on as easy as the old one, so I got it started, then pressed it on the rest of the way with the big nut. Took about 10 mins. or so. Now I can install the Nitrous Ready shaft and not have to worry about anything else, and when I get a 12 bolt, I will just have to shorten it! I got the yolk from a junk yard for $14! I cleaned it up real nice and it look good as new! I sure am glad I got this out of the way, it was easier than I thought.

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

And now the preload on your pinion bearings is f**ked up.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Why do you say that?

kp

iTrader: (34)

yup, they use a crush sleeve to set pinion bearing preload so if you tightened it too much it will chew up the pinion bearings, not enough and it will just make some noise on decel and leak. Since you are swapping the rear soon its probably is good enough for a while.

You dont have to shorten the driveshaft for a 12 bolt, if it fits the 10 bolt it will fit the 12 bolt 99% of the time..

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Is there a certain torque spec that the bolt should be tightened to so that its not too tight or too loose? Thanks.

AL SS590 M6

iTrader: (1)

Exactly what vehicle did you get the yoke from? Year make and model please. I've been checking all over and they all say that all Astros come with the 1310 u-joint the same as our cars.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

I dont remember exactly what year it was because I got it out of a junk yard. Took it home, put a wire wheel on a drill and made it look like new. I believe from 90-2000 is the years that you need, but dont quote me on that. If you check out a junk yard, you can definately tell one from a 1310. Either from an AstroVan or a Safari will work.

LT1Charlie

http://www.arizonadrivelines.com/conversion_joints.htm

AL SS590 M6

iTrader: (1)

After some long research I found that ANY Astro/Safari yoke will fit our 10 bolt and ALL use the 1350 u-joint.
$25 at the junkyard.

1BADAIR

iTrader: (1)

Our cars don't use a Spicer 1310, they use a saginaw 3r which is bigger.
A 447 is correct, but if you ask for a coversionX from 1350 to 1310 it will be wrong.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axles/130212-1350-driveshaft-stock-rearend-help.html