Wheel stud Question
01-24-2011, 10:19 AM
#21
That is horrible man, here are the pics of my aftermath. It is scary how close our stories are. I too hit a telephone pole due to losing the wheel. The pole moved the car in 14" on my drivers side.
My Wheel studs were always torqued perfect, and checked after driving. I think wheel studs are one of those things that gets overlooked at replacing periodically. ARP will be the only studs I run from now on.
My Wheel studs were always torqued perfect, and checked after driving. I think wheel studs are one of those things that gets overlooked at replacing periodically. ARP will be the only studs I run from now on.
01-24-2011, 11:23 AM
#22
That is freaking horifying! You were very lucky. The pole came in on you! God must of had your back too.
I wonder if we could get some kind of sticky on this to help get a warning out. Maybe save a life or two.
Good wheel studs are cheap compared to what it can cost.
I wonder if we could get some kind of sticky on this to help get a warning out. Maybe save a life or two.
Good wheel studs are cheap compared to what it can cost.
01-24-2011, 02:24 PM
#24
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Same thing happened to me in my 98 T/A luckily i was going slow(25mph) when my left rear ones broke off. I was very lucky I was able to stay on the road and there was no damage to the car. just the stud and lugs. I run ARP on that car and on my 01 T/a as well. I am all for a sticky!!!!. Hope you guys that got hurt are doing ok!!!!!
01-24-2011, 03:55 PM
#26
The trick IMO is after lots of torquing or a lot of hard launches, replace the wheel studs. I am sure running a spool on the street didn't help me on this either. For $26 to replace 10 studs every once and a while, sure is worth what CAN happen if you have failure. Also when installing the wheel studs be sure to press them in or get the ball bearing tool that helps if you are using impact, I would imagine this would help the life of the studs as well.
I just wish I would have been better informed about how easy wheel studs can shear off.
01-24-2011, 04:18 PM
#27
What style stud are you guys using, press in or screw in.My moser came with cheap *** china screw in type , and were a little bend after awhile.I got a set from strange 1/2-3" screw in that seemed to be made of better steel.No problems for a few years now. They are easier to check for tightness because of there thinner ,flatter head between the abs ring.
01-24-2011, 07:19 PM
#28
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Thanks for sharing your stories i'm glad you guys are okay. After reading this I have decided to have my s60 equipped with 5/8 studs just for peace of mind and will be running arp studs in the front!
05-27-2012, 09:10 AM
#29
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just want to bring this back up... didnt realize just how dangerous this was!!!!!!!!! this is on my dana 60. never once hooked it up on the track. best 60 ft was only 1.78! even spun through the shifts. im glad my transmission started whining worse or i would have continued running at the track........................... im sure these wouldnt have lasted long
Last edited by got-a-ls1; 05-27-2012 at 09:18 AM.
05-27-2012, 12:30 PM
#30
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I hate to see those pictures and am glad you guys are ok.People have posted about breaking wheel studs before but these pictures should get every ones attention who are thinking about buying a rear.If your buying a aftermarket rear why not upgrade the wheel studs-I have to think its because a lot of people have never seen studs break and simply never give it a thought.I have a A4 car and bought a 12 bolt but got 1/2" studs and yes they are a bit stronger.A 9" rear and especially a S60 with 35 spline axels even with 12mm studs is making the wheel stud the weakest link.If they bend then they are cheap to replace but as these pictures show they can be the worst and most expensive part to fail.
05-27-2012, 01:39 PM
#31
got-a-ls1- what size studs and what tires were you using? I got 1/2" in my s60, the main reason for not going to 5/8" is that you need new street wheels cause the 5/8" studs don't fit alot of wheels, 1/2" work just fine.
09-10-2012, 05:01 PM
#35
I sheared 12mm strange screw in studs on launch last year and twisted up 1 othe set of 12mm and twisted two sets of 1/2" 3"ln strange studs. Stock wheels and acorn lugs are not ur friend with a 6spd and a good bias ply street slick so it's not just the drag radial and 6spd guys. I got lucky my night at the track when the left side sheared on launch. I switched to a mag shank style wheel and so far no problems. I am by no means blaming strange for their product. It was my fault for running the wrong lug nuts.
09-10-2012, 05:46 PM
#36
Some helpful info, it is always good to make sure you retorque your wheel studs. Many people do not check them periodicly. Not saying this is the reason the OP had problems but bringing it up for those viewing the thread.
Many people have gone extremely fast with 1/2 studs, again you just have to make sure they are torqued properly.
5?8 studs are definetly the strongest stud option available but keep in mind that any stock style wheel and some after market wheels will not work with the 5/8 stud. They are bigger and there is no lug nut option for wheels designed to take acorn style wheel.
I am sorry to see your loss in you vehicle, and to the gentleman with the broken pelvis I feel your pain I have broke mine in the past as well. Not a fun experiance at all, go figure the only "bone" in the body that does not rejoin..
Many people have gone extremely fast with 1/2 studs, again you just have to make sure they are torqued properly.
5?8 studs are definetly the strongest stud option available but keep in mind that any stock style wheel and some after market wheels will not work with the 5/8 stud. They are bigger and there is no lug nut option for wheels designed to take acorn style wheel.
I am sorry to see your loss in you vehicle, and to the gentleman with the broken pelvis I feel your pain I have broke mine in the past as well. Not a fun experiance at all, go figure the only "bone" in the body that does not rejoin..
I once had a brand new 33x12.5x15 All Terrain wheel come off my 4x4 Suburban at 55 mph because it was improperly installed by a tire shop and nearly killed two policemen getting ready to arrest an illegal alien and his family in Texas! The illegal alien literally pushed the two policeman away to save their lives and took the wheel to the chest and flew about 40 feet! The police drew their guns on him as they were pushed away because they thought they were being attacked by the Illegal Alien! How that guy ever survived is a miracle to me! The police let them go on their way because they didnt have the heart to arrest them after he saved their life!
Joe
09-11-2012, 09:23 AM
#38
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Those are some pretty horrible crashes guys, glad everyone eventually recovered... On a side note, how were you all selecting and installing the wheel studs that broke? If you go to the arp website, they give guidelines for selecting the right knurl size for your application... I see alot of you who had studs break were using the 5/8" (.625") knurl studs, and some mention drilling holes for them with a 5/8" drill bit.... as per the arp website, you need a hole that is approximatly .005" smaller than the knurl for iron/steel and .007" smaller for aluminum. If you just drill it the same size, on hard launches your letting the wheel stud move inside the axle and create a weak area around the head of the stud. Also, "press in" studs should not be installed with an impact, this also creates a weak area between the knurl and the threads. arp studs are strong, but only if they are installed correctly.
