Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

I have a Moser 9" with the 12mm studs Moser sent with it. I sheared all five studs off the drivers side this Friday and lot control took out the front end of my car. I am in the process of moving things over to a different car now.

So now I want to upgrade to the strongest wheel studs, ARP. My question is can I drill out the Moser axle flange holes to 5/8" or do I have to get different axles?

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

Anything is possible but your best bet would to sell the axles you currently have and buying new. That would be the easiest route with less hassle.

Sorry to hear about your accident also.

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

How much for a set of 31 splined 5/8" studded axles? Who's is the best?

BlkBird2000

iTrader: (10)

Would the same size apr studs work? I bent the 12mm stock studs that moser put on the axles as well with only 400hp. I wonder how much power or torque can the 1/2" can hold.
'

Awake455

Hmm. I wound up pulling most of my rear studs apart torquing them back down one day. Watched the torque reading go up to the 50-70 range then go soft as they pulled apart. They were 12mm ARP studs, IIRC a bit longer than OEM. Pulled the "head" off of every one of them (the ones that failed). Baffled me and I might think about sending them back to ARP for an autopsy. Not that I expect them to replace them, just curious as to why they failed.

To avoid having the car down for days I went on a 125 mile tour of every auto parts store around to get 10 Dorman studs to get me back on the road. Get it back out of storage after my time in the 'stan and I will be very thoroughly investigating this. Gotta be a good explanation. I doubt I have the power to break them.

Glad I didn't lose them on the road.

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

1/2" arp or even 12mm arp would be better. but if you saw what happend to my car you might just do like me and go with 5/8" arp. My car was destroyed! I have to find another car to put my stuff in. And it was two feet away from a fatality!

Awake455

Yeah...like I said I had 12 mm ARP studs. If it were cheap studs I could believe they were stressed due to power levels. The "heads" pulled off of every one of these which confuses me. You sheared them off which is a different failure.

fitz98ta

iTrader: (29)

Man the same thing happened to me last year, except total loss to the car and broke my back and pelvis in the process. I sheared the driver side studs as well. Sorry to hear about this.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Moser axle studs must suck. I saw ALL 10 on a 9 inch rear end twist on a 12 second car launching at the track

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

Dude! I hope you have recovered well. Maybe we should all ban together and confront Moser about this.

fitz98ta

iTrader: (29)

Yeah, took some time, but I recovered. I should have definitely replaced my wheel studs long before this happened, but still sucks. I will only be running ARP on my next project. I called Moser after it happened and they wouldn't even offer me a discount on another rear end!!!!

You can send your axles off to moser and have them drilled in another location for 5/8's studs too. That way you have dual pattern in case you ever want to go back to stock diameter wheel studs.

SWeiser31

iTrader: (9)

You can have them re-drilled. You'll have to send them out to Moser or someone that can do it because I seriously doubt you have a drill bit good enough. Those flanges are HARD!!

Oldsmobility85

iTrader: (1)

Wow!! Glad you guys are posting this and even more glad that you are still around to tell the story. I wonder whats happening? My car has been 6.90 on the stock rear end and stock studs. Have never broken a stud in it. I think im going to go with half inch screw in studs in my new axles for my 9".

SWeiser31

iTrader: (9)

If you're buying everything new, then I highly recommend going with 5/8. Usually the upgrade isn't very expensive and you get peace of mind. Plus you won't have to deal with those shank style lug nuts.

Oldsmobility85

iTrader: (1)

I have a rather low budget wheel on my car and it only accepts the 60° seat style lugnuts. It would take some heavy machining to get them to accept that big lug spacer and nut.

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

These are the results of me running 12mm wheel stud. Thanks Moser.

Oldsmobility85

iTrader: (1)

Damn dude how fast were you going when that happened? What did you hit?

1lejohn

iTrader: (9)

Arp 12mm press in studs for me. No problems yet, but you have me worried. Glad everyone is alright after some horrific accidents. Where these studs press in or bolted?

Texas_WS6

iTrader: (9)

We were running with traffic. About 45 or 50 when the wheel came off. They are press in studs.

It was a tellephone pole. The car slid sideways and the pole hit right in front of the tire and pealed the car apart..

I think the studs broke while I was at the track last. I just did not see any missing do to the rim design. Then the last ones gave it up.

MidwestChassis

iTrader: (5)

Some helpful info, it is always good to make sure you retorque your wheel studs. Many people do not check them periodicly. Not saying this is the reason the OP had problems but bringing it up for those viewing the thread.

Many people have gone extremely fast with 1/2 studs, again you just have to make sure they are torqued properly.

5?8 studs are definetly the strongest stud option available but keep in mind that any stock style wheel and some after market wheels will not work with the 5/8 stud. They are bigger and there is no lug nut option for wheels designed to take acorn style wheel.

I am sorry to see your loss in you vehicle, and to the gentleman with the broken pelvis I feel your pain I have broke mine in the past as well. Not a fun experiance at all, go figure the only "bone" in the body that does not rejoin..