ZForce1

I have a pinion nut on my 10 bolt that will not stay tight. I did a gear swap which went with no problems. The first time I torqued the pinion nut to 30 in/lbs and had a whine that was barely noticeable. After a few weeks it came loose and whined like hell. I Took the nut off, put loctite all over it and torqued it t0 26 in/lbs, which made it quieter - no perceptible whine at all. Now a couple of months later the pinion nut backed out again. I used the nut that came with the gears (Motive Performance Gears). I was about to put the stock nut back on, but I must have gotten rid of it. Any ideas on how to keep this thing on? On the floor in the garage I don't thing hitting it with a hammer and punch will work. Anyone know where to get a good nut that has some run-on torque?

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

30 in.lbs. ??? 26 in.lbs. ???
It takes a very high torque(sometimes a couple hundred ft.lbs.)to 'crush' the crush sleeve and load the bearings. once you begin to load the bearings,you measure pinion rotational torque to attain about 10 in.lbs for used bearings and about 25 in. lbs. for new bearings. you keep torquing the pinion nut until those readings are attained without going past.

ZForce1

Right - I had to use an impact gut to crush the sleeve. The setup is fine - it runs quiet. I just can't keep the pinion nut from backing out.

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

I beleave you are completely confused, the 20-30 in/lb (sure an't going to work) is refering to the tork required to turn a bare pinion with no drag by the ring, the tork to tighten the nut will require 150-260 (??) FOOT lbs ( a long breaker bar with a long cheater pipe/or a good air inpack gun) just do not over crush the sleave or you must start over
I suggest you read a good install write up
http://www.keliente.com/gears.htm

These may help

http://www.vernco.com/rearaxle5/index.htm

Click on "Download a copy..." on the Jaws gear page.

http://www.jawsgear.com/tech_kits.php

http://www.greenfries.info/rear_gear.htm

good luck Johnny

ZForce1

Thanks - I've seen a couple of those write-ups, but there are a couple of good ones there that I did not know about. I'll take care of it.

pctek

Check this link out in contains some YouTube video in tightening the pinion nuts and such it looks like you have to tight the crap out of the pinion nut between 200-500 pounds of torque until there's no slop and play with the yoke, then you do the specified 20 something in pounds of rotation drag when turning the yoke in circular motion.

http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=248196

69TA

iTrader: (263)

can't you just put loctite on it?

Nemesis350

iTrader: (11)

WOW

sorry, i know that contributes nothing.. .. but i'm at a loss for words...

Nemesis350

iTrader: (11)

Sometimes, the pinion nuts provided have a spot where you can hammer and punch them to "tighten" them, or at least keep them from backing off. Of course, pinion nuts should be of a locking type that shouldn't really back off by themselves especially when torqued correctly. Loctite should help, even anti seize (doubles as a torque multiplier; just throwing it out there, not going to argue it's validity)