10 Bolt Failures - What Actually Happens?
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10 Bolt Failures - What Actually Happens?
Like the title says, what actually happens/breaks when you blow the stock 10-bolt running 4.10's? Is it just the gears that need to be replaced or is the damage usually more extensive?
I'm thinking about putting a set of 4.10's in my stock rear end. I just run street tires and go to the track about once every other year so I don't expect I'm likely to kill it. I do a lot of "spirited driving" on the street on a daily basis though
Any advice would be much appreciated.
I'm thinking about putting a set of 4.10's in my stock rear end. I just run street tires and go to the track about once every other year so I don't expect I'm likely to kill it. I do a lot of "spirited driving" on the street on a daily basis though
Any advice would be much appreciated.
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I've seen teeth sheared off the gears and exploded differentials, which will usually take the gears with them. Street tires help, but there have been plenty of 10-bolt failures where the people were only running street tires.
Some live forever, but those are usually the ones behind an automatic transmission. If you beat on it hard, be prepared for the potential of having to replace it, and that is not a cheap proposition.
Some live forever, but those are usually the ones behind an automatic transmission. If you beat on it hard, be prepared for the potential of having to replace it, and that is not a cheap proposition.
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I am getting ready to rebuild one that has really loose pinion bearings and is making a lot of noise. The crush sleeve starts to crush more from the shock of the 6 speed and makes the pinion bearings loose.
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I just bought a rear to rebuild. It was behind a stock 6 speed car and a it has a broken tooth on one of the posi unit gears.
The rear in my car was whining louder and louder at 90 thousand, turned out to be a right rear axle got cooked at the bearing. I replaced the axle and bearings, and put in new lube, and it is working fine. The rear is a little loud and I suspect it should get new carrier bearings and pinion bearings.
The rear in my car was whining louder and louder at 90 thousand, turned out to be a right rear axle got cooked at the bearing. I replaced the axle and bearings, and put in new lube, and it is working fine. The rear is a little loud and I suspect it should get new carrier bearings and pinion bearings.
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Anybody have theirs break on the street? Or at the track with street tires, not drag radials?
Also, looking into installation kits... which would you guys recommend? My car has 105,000 miles. I was looking at the Ratech kits and trying to decide between these two:
Complete Kit: Includes pinion shims, carrier shims, crush sleeve, pinion seal, pinion nut, ring gear bolts, cover gasket, and pinion & carrier bearings
Deluxe Kit: Includes pinion shims, carrier shims, crush sleeve, pinion seal, pinion nut, ring gear bolts, cover gasket, pinion & carrier bearings, PLUS wheel bearings and seals. (All of the small parts and pieces necessary to RESTORE an axle to like new condition!)
Also, looking into installation kits... which would you guys recommend? My car has 105,000 miles. I was looking at the Ratech kits and trying to decide between these two:
Complete Kit: Includes pinion shims, carrier shims, crush sleeve, pinion seal, pinion nut, ring gear bolts, cover gasket, and pinion & carrier bearings
Deluxe Kit: Includes pinion shims, carrier shims, crush sleeve, pinion seal, pinion nut, ring gear bolts, cover gasket, pinion & carrier bearings, PLUS wheel bearings and seals. (All of the small parts and pieces necessary to RESTORE an axle to like new condition!)
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Basically on a hard sticky launch the axel tubes walk forward while the driveshaft drives the center section back, add to that the small ring gear only allows 2 teeth from the ring gear to contact the pinion at any time this is why the ring gear teeth usally break off. Get a girdle, have your axel tubes welded on, no slicks and I would not go any deeper than a 3.73 gear.
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Figured I'd ask in here instead of making a new topic...I'm going to the track saturday and I'm borrowing my friends drag radials in an attempt to break into the 12's. Currently have not been able to get past a 13.4 with street tires and I KNOW my car is capable of at least 12.8's. I've beat on my car pretty hard and the rear end seems to be holding up very strong and I know it's a hit and miss with these cars, but would I be safe launching from say 2k rpm on drag radials? Power numbers are in the sig
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I can grab the yoke and move it up and down, in and out. The Yoke is also mushroomed out on the end. Slop had to start somewhere, the weakest link in there is the crush sleeve. Unless someone tried to change the pinion seal at some point and did not do it right. This thing had the bottom of the car completly coverd in gear oil.
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Every one I ever took apart had the teeth on the pinon gear gone and a few broken on the ring gear. Don't know what let go but in the midst of all the carnage it casing of the carrier got a piece broke off. Two of them were in my friends 86 camaro, 350, M6. He likes to stop every 150 feet and peel out. He was only running like a 215 tire though.
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Figured I'd ask in here instead of making a new topic...I'm going to the track saturday and I'm borrowing my friends drag radials in an attempt to break into the 12's. Currently have not been able to get past a 13.4 with street tires and I KNOW my car is capable of at least 12.8's. I've beat on my car pretty hard and the rear end seems to be holding up very strong and I know it's a hit and miss with these cars, but would I be safe launching from say 2k rpm on drag radials? Power numbers are in the sig
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Ive broke mine on the street with street tires roll racing...ripped a tooth out of the pinion. Knowing what I've learned over the years, I wouldn't waste a dime on 10 bolt unless the car was stock and I just drove the car, maybe playing around here or there. 3 10 bolts and a t56 far out weighted the cost of a 9"
Just my shitty experience with that pile of junk
Ps...when we pulled the 10 bolt out, the entire housing was bent, killed rear tires on wear
Just my shitty experience with that pile of junk
Ps...when we pulled the 10 bolt out, the entire housing was bent, killed rear tires on wear
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Common failures I have seen on street tires have been the teeth in the torsen diff breaking, the diff itself breaking, the bolts holding the diff together breaking, bearings getting beat out of it (usually pinion bearings), and/or ring & pinion teeth shearing off.