Remove 9" pinion support w/o draining?
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Remove 9" pinion support w/o draining?
I just got new gears set up in my Moser 9" AGAIN. In attempt to quiet down the gears (with only 60 miles so far), I am going to try to increase/decrease pinion depth shims in increments of .002". My question: is it possible to remove the pinion support (which is daytona) without draining all the fluid? I imagine a good bit of fluid will be lost, but shouldn't be a whole lot. It looks like it should pool in the bottom nicely before the level touches the pinion support.
My installer marked the gears with a nice pattern, and .010" backlash, so I should have a little wiggle room to adjust depth.
My installer marked the gears with a nice pattern, and .010" backlash, so I should have a little wiggle room to adjust depth.
Last edited by HoLLo; 03-01-2012 at 10:28 PM.
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You can easily remove the pinion support without having to drain it. The fluid is in the bottom of the housing, not near the PS. This is what makes the 9" supperior over all other designs IMO, the ability to quickly change and test pinion depth settings. I did this to dial in my gears and now they are silent.
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I just got new gears set up in my Moser 9" AGAIN. In attempt to quiet down the gears (with only 60 miles so far), I am going to try to increase/decrease pinion depth shims in increments of .002". My question: is it possible to remove the pinion support (which is daytona) without draining all the fluid? I imagine a good bit of fluid will be lost, but shouldn't be a whole lot. It looks like it should pool in the bottom nicely before the level touches the pinion support.
My installer marked the gears with a nice pattern, and .010" backlash, so I should have a little wiggle room to adjust depth.
My installer marked the gears with a nice pattern, and .010" backlash, so I should have a little wiggle room to adjust depth.
But, yes you can pull the pinon support and not loose much oil.
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You can easily remove the pinion support without having to drain it. The fluid is in the bottom of the housing, not near the PS. This is what makes the 9" supperior over all other designs IMO, the ability to quickly change and test pinion depth settings. I did this to dial in my gears and now they are silent.
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Oddly, the gearset I installed in September was Motive Performance 4.11 and they were DEAD silent until about 500 miles. Unfortunately, I KNEW I overshot my Ratech Smart Sleeve (crush sleeve), and backed it off, and didn't replace it, and I did not torque/preload the carrier bearings. That eventually caused the excessive whine in that set.
This set of Richmonds 4.11s made noise the second they came off the jackstands.
And I've read your threads 96lt4c4, I'm hoping I don't chase this down forever! I can deal with a little bit of noise, but at 60 miles on the gears, they are too noisy. I took them on the highway for about 1 minute tops at 70mph and they were howling like hell. Not cool. I'll take a little bit of noise, but not this.
First I'm going to remove about .002" from the shims, and then .004", and then if that doesn't work I'll try adding .002" and .004", but I probably won't go much out of that range since I'm unable to really change the backlash properly.
This set of Richmonds 4.11s made noise the second they came off the jackstands.
And I've read your threads 96lt4c4, I'm hoping I don't chase this down forever! I can deal with a little bit of noise, but at 60 miles on the gears, they are too noisy. I took them on the highway for about 1 minute tops at 70mph and they were howling like hell. Not cool. I'll take a little bit of noise, but not this.
First I'm going to remove about .002" from the shims, and then .004", and then if that doesn't work I'll try adding .002" and .004", but I probably won't go much out of that range since I'm unable to really change the backlash properly.
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You say the pattern looks "nice", how does it compare with the sketches in the Yukon Manual? This is the best reference I've seen to gear setup. If you have a good pattern and correct backlash you shouldn't have excessive whine (except in 96lt4c4's case).
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I know what gear patterns are acceptable, this is my 3rd gear setup. A shop did this center section this time, and when I got it back, the pattern was on the money. I've talked to the guy, he is willing to help me out, but I'm going to try this first. I'm not going to go straight to blaming him and insulting him like most would do, .001" of difference in these things can make a difference.
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I know what gear patterns are acceptable, this is my 3rd gear setup. A shop did this center section this time, and when I got it back, the pattern was on the money. I've talked to the guy, he is willing to help me out, but I'm going to try this first. I'm not going to go straight to blaming him and insulting him like most would do, .001" of difference in these things can make a difference.
Go over to the Hottrodders forum and search around, you will find a lot of info. I have read posts of guys with hotrods, stock Ford ring and pinions, get them changed out by some shop, then they end up fighting the rear to get it quiet. If I had a 60K hot rod with a noisy rear end I would be pissed.
I even bought one of these, so I didnt have to fight the thing on a bench
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Assemb...tial,2612.html
I should have bought one of these from the begening.
The other thing is, I am sure you know, is that if you have any gear noise at all in an f body its going to sound way worse becasue the design of the car. I have urethane LCA mounts, and the the LCA's are boxed in solid, that does not help either.
Last edited by 96lt4c4; 03-03-2012 at 07:01 AM.
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Well I took the pinion support off, and inspected the gears today @ 75 miles on the gears. The ring's coast side had a nice perfectly centered side to side and top to bottom pattern to it, but the drive side pattern was only centered heel to toe, and as if the pinion was super shallow. It was riding the top of the tooth. And the pinion teeth didn't have a whole lot of contact..
So I removed .005" worth of shims and put it back together. It's not any better.. I'm going to drive it for a few more days and check it again, and try subtracting another .002-.005" of pinion shims and see what I get.
I can deal with a little bit of noise, but I am not dealing with this, I do take 1000 mile round trips twice a year.
So I removed .005" worth of shims and put it back together. It's not any better.. I'm going to drive it for a few more days and check it again, and try subtracting another .002-.005" of pinion shims and see what I get.
I can deal with a little bit of noise, but I am not dealing with this, I do take 1000 mile round trips twice a year.
Last edited by HoLLo; 03-06-2012 at 08:52 PM.
#10
Well I took the pinion support off, and inspected the gears today @ 75 miles on the gears. The ring's coast side had a nice perfectly centered side to side and top to bottom pattern to it, but the drive side pattern was only centered heel to toe, and as if the pinion was super shallow. It was riding the top of the tooth. And the pinion teeth didn't have a whole lot of contact..
So I removed .005" worth of shims and put it back together. It's not any better.. I'm going to drive it for a few more days and check it again, and try subtracting another .002-.005" of pinion shims and see what I get.
I can deal with a little bit of noise, but I am not dealing with this, I do take 1000 mile round trips twice a year.
So I removed .005" worth of shims and put it back together. It's not any better.. I'm going to drive it for a few more days and check it again, and try subtracting another .002-.005" of pinion shims and see what I get.
I can deal with a little bit of noise, but I am not dealing with this, I do take 1000 mile round trips twice a year.
Just trying to help....
Al 95 Z28
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Well I took the pinion support off, and inspected the gears today @ 75 miles on the gears. The ring's coast side had a nice perfectly centered side to side and top to bottom pattern to it, but the drive side pattern was only centered heel to toe, and as if the pinion was super shallow. It was riding the top of the tooth. And the pinion teeth didn't have a whole lot of contact..
So I removed .005" worth of shims and put it back together. It's not any better.. I'm going to drive it for a few more days and check it again, and try subtracting another .002-.005" of pinion shims and see what I get.
I can deal with a little bit of noise, but I am not dealing with this, I do take 1000 mile round trips twice a year.
So I removed .005" worth of shims and put it back together. It's not any better.. I'm going to drive it for a few more days and check it again, and try subtracting another .002-.005" of pinion shims and see what I get.
I can deal with a little bit of noise, but I am not dealing with this, I do take 1000 mile round trips twice a year.