Gear Ratios
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Gear Ratios
New to the F-body scene. Got a 2000 triple black z-28. My friend was telling me that changing the gear ratio would have similar effects to that of chaning the gear ratio on a GT to 4.10s making a drastic difference. Anybody know what gear ratio he meant? He said doing that and spraying w/ a special system that turns on at WOT from 2k to 5k rpms would make a HUGE difference in 1/4 times and acceleration.
#4
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if youve got an auto, get 3.73
its not bad on the freeway like people say,
but with too much stall and too much STR you need fat *** stickies
if you've got a manual,
get 4.10's!
i would if i had TWO OVERDRIVE GEARS
its not bad on the freeway like people say,
but with too much stall and too much STR you need fat *** stickies
if you've got a manual,
get 4.10's!
i would if i had TWO OVERDRIVE GEARS
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and if you have an a4 ,automatic, i think spraying with 4.10's would be a little much and make you shift into over drive at WOT and that kills the tranny
but if an manual 6, get 4.10's and save up some major money for clutches, rear ends blabla bla , dont know to much because i just have an a4, but thats what ive heard on here!!
but if an manual 6, get 4.10's and save up some major money for clutches, rear ends blabla bla , dont know to much because i just have an a4, but thats what ive heard on here!!
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Alright thanks for the clearup joe. I have an A4, 00 z-28. What gear ratio should i switch for, to maximize performance but not need mega tranny mods and keep daily drivibility.
#10
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Originally Posted by LS1ownzYOU
Alright thanks for the clearup joe. I have an A4, 00 z-28. What gear ratio should i switch for, to maximize performance but not need mega tranny mods and keep daily drivibility.
3.73...
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O alright thanks. So you think going to a 3.73 would be an upgrade worth it? You have a part number/link to where i can get it. And tell me what exactly id need to get. Does there need to be any other work done to the tranny/engine?
#14
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if i were you,
and i had 3.23's,
i would just get the damn gears.
but if i had 2.73, (and i did)
and i wasnt an idiot (which i am)
i would just save for the 12-bolt.
going from 2.73 to 3.73,
i got the zexel-torsen to change from crappy clutch to better-than-crap gear posi,
the ratech deluxe install kit,
the damn gears,
the soild spacer,
the fluid..
all this crap came out to about $400 (or was it $500) parts
and $360 labor
(screwed up axle had to be replaced)
thats $760 for a crappy 10-bolt.
if i could do it over,
i would have saved to get the 12 bolt from the start.
btw, do you have 2.73 or 3.23?
2.73 shifts 1-2 at ~50mph and 2-3 at ~90mph
3.23 sooner.
door codes are gu2 and gu5, respectively.
and i had 3.23's,
i would just get the damn gears.
but if i had 2.73, (and i did)
and i wasnt an idiot (which i am)
i would just save for the 12-bolt.
going from 2.73 to 3.73,
i got the zexel-torsen to change from crappy clutch to better-than-crap gear posi,
the ratech deluxe install kit,
the damn gears,
the soild spacer,
the fluid..
all this crap came out to about $400 (or was it $500) parts
and $360 labor
(screwed up axle had to be replaced)
thats $760 for a crappy 10-bolt.
if i could do it over,
i would have saved to get the 12 bolt from the start.
btw, do you have 2.73 or 3.23?
2.73 shifts 1-2 at ~50mph and 2-3 at ~90mph
3.23 sooner.
door codes are gu2 and gu5, respectively.
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3.73's
I just went from 3.23's to 3.73's in an A4 (automatic) - I would not recommend going any higher. I'm already spending a lot more time at the gas station
The 3.73's (which I got from Thunder Racing - see sponsor link to right) ran about $200 and another $250 to install them. They feel pretty tight, a decent bang for the buck. However, if you really want to get a dramatic gain in 1/4 mile time and you don't mind having a less-responsive throttle while driving around town, a torque converter is definitely the preferred mod. It will cost you a little more than gears but it can cut .5-.7 off your 1/4 mile, there is no other mod other than NOS that can do that for you. If you don't know what a tq converter is, I think the best explanation is this:
Right now, you have a torque converter in your car. It is about an 1800 stall, which means when you stomp on the gas, your rpms jump to 1800 and then your car takes off. By switching to say a 3500 stall, your car will jump all the way to 3500 (in a fraction of a second) and then launch your car at a much more desirable place in the LS1 powerband. Unfortunately our cars are a little sluggish in the low RPMs, but true beasts 3,000 and above!!!
The only down side to all this is that your everyday around-town driving will suffer a little (known as streetability). I'm sure someone can jump in here as an expert and explain that a little better.....
Hope that helped
The 3.73's (which I got from Thunder Racing - see sponsor link to right) ran about $200 and another $250 to install them. They feel pretty tight, a decent bang for the buck. However, if you really want to get a dramatic gain in 1/4 mile time and you don't mind having a less-responsive throttle while driving around town, a torque converter is definitely the preferred mod. It will cost you a little more than gears but it can cut .5-.7 off your 1/4 mile, there is no other mod other than NOS that can do that for you. If you don't know what a tq converter is, I think the best explanation is this:
Right now, you have a torque converter in your car. It is about an 1800 stall, which means when you stomp on the gas, your rpms jump to 1800 and then your car takes off. By switching to say a 3500 stall, your car will jump all the way to 3500 (in a fraction of a second) and then launch your car at a much more desirable place in the LS1 powerband. Unfortunately our cars are a little sluggish in the low RPMs, but true beasts 3,000 and above!!!
The only down side to all this is that your everyday around-town driving will suffer a little (known as streetability). I'm sure someone can jump in here as an expert and explain that a little better.....
Hope that helped
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Originally Posted by mako22
I just went from 3.23's to 3.73's in an A4 (automatic) - I would not recommend going any higher. I'm already spending a lot more time at the gas station
The 3.73's (which I got from Thunder Racing - see sponsor link to right) ran about $200 and another $250 to install them. They feel pretty tight, a decent bang for the buck. However, if you really want to get a dramatic gain in 1/4 mile time and you don't mind having a less-responsive throttle while driving around town, a torque converter is definitely the preferred mod. It will cost you a little more than gears but it can cut .5-.7 off your 1/4 mile, there is no other mod other than NOS that can do that for you. If you don't know what a tq converter is, I think the best explanation is this:
Right now, you have a torque converter in your car. It is about an 1800 stall, which means when you stomp on the gas, your rpms jump to 1800 and then your car takes off. By switching to say a 3500 stall, your car will jump all the way to 3500 (in a fraction of a second) and then launch your car at a much more desirable place in the LS1 powerband. Unfortunately our cars are a little sluggish in the low RPMs, but true beasts 3,000 and above!!!
The only down side to all this is that your everyday around-town driving will suffer a little (known as streetability). I'm sure someone can jump in here as an expert and explain that a little better.....
Hope that helped
The 3.73's (which I got from Thunder Racing - see sponsor link to right) ran about $200 and another $250 to install them. They feel pretty tight, a decent bang for the buck. However, if you really want to get a dramatic gain in 1/4 mile time and you don't mind having a less-responsive throttle while driving around town, a torque converter is definitely the preferred mod. It will cost you a little more than gears but it can cut .5-.7 off your 1/4 mile, there is no other mod other than NOS that can do that for you. If you don't know what a tq converter is, I think the best explanation is this:
Right now, you have a torque converter in your car. It is about an 1800 stall, which means when you stomp on the gas, your rpms jump to 1800 and then your car takes off. By switching to say a 3500 stall, your car will jump all the way to 3500 (in a fraction of a second) and then launch your car at a much more desirable place in the LS1 powerband. Unfortunately our cars are a little sluggish in the low RPMs, but true beasts 3,000 and above!!!
The only down side to all this is that your everyday around-town driving will suffer a little (known as streetability). I'm sure someone can jump in here as an expert and explain that a little better.....
Hope that helped
What do you mean by tight, and did this increase your throttle response at all, im not looking for quicker ETs in the 1/4 specifically, but all around performance. I want to keep streetability good, and would changing the gears increase throttle response and more usable hp/tq? Im not worried about going to the gas station alot as i dont pay for my own gas hehe Sorry about the all ?'s but im trying to learn my way.
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Originally Posted by LS1ownzYOU
Im not worried about going to the gas station alot as i dont pay for my own gas hehe Sorry about the all ?'s but im trying to learn my way.