Grim Crow

Any latenighters out there who could help me out would be great: stock 10bolt on a 98 z28 (auburn limited slip). Trying to replace the spider gears, and end up going with an open diff for now. We pulled a 10bolt out of a 94 which is open diff, and the pinion shaft slides right out after removing the pinion bolt, but on the auburn limited slip, we been banging on the pinion shaft for a while (after removing bolt of course) and it won't budge. Is there any special way of getting it out? I'm assuming the springs from the limited slip mechanism are what's keeping it from sliding out like it did on the open diff. The factory manual doesn't say anything about how to remove the pinion shaft except just to remove it. Anyone who could shed some light on this for me would be great, even if that just means i need to bang the **** out of it till it's out. thanx in advance. btw gm calls it the pinion shaft, i'm talking about the shaft that is inside the diff between the spider gears.

Grim Crow

based on what i have read it seems it is warped. if anyone else has a possible solution would be great.. really don't want to take a torch to it.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

You need to tap it in about half an inch, then roll the center posi/carrier around till you're looking at the side that is now sticking out and grab it with some channel locks or something.

Grim Crow

thanx for the reply. we were working with it under the car since we were just gonna change the center section, but alas we removed the whole rear end now and it's sitting on jack stands. we tried heating the diff housing and seeing if the pinion shaft would be easier out that way but still no luck. It does move a little in either direction but then just stops. There isn't enough sticking out to grab with some channel locks or vice grips either. Also with the whole rear end out, we were able to try to punch it out with a considerably larger amount of force, and still it defeats me.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

normally it'll just slide/push out.



could be the spring retainer plates wore grooves into the shaft and the plates are sitting in the grooves,try wiggling the plates.

Z28LOVER

iTrader: (8)

I was under the assumption these posi units were not rebuildable? If I might need to do mine.

Z28LOVER

iTrader: (8)

Is there rebuild kits for these ? If so can someone let me know where to get one.

Z28LOVER

iTrader: (8)

I was under the assumption these posi units were not rebuildable? If so i might need to do mine.

FirstYrLS1Z

iTrader: (4)

they are not rebuildable,but broken/wore 'spiders' can be replaced,if you can find/acquire some. The cone clutch aspect is not rebuildable.

Big Al

iTrader: (1)

Back to the original question. One thing that worked for me was to drive the pin out as far as it will go. Then grind down the end that sticks out with an angle grinder. You want to make the end smaller in diameter. When you hit it the shaft wants to mushroom out. Then drive it back through from the smaller end. Lots of people mushroom the hell out of these shafts beating them with the wrong drift. On some, when you remove the cover you find the retaining bolt broken off in the pin. And what broke it is the side gear galling and welding itself to the pin. I've spent a lot of time trying to get these apart and have resorted to cutting the pin with a torch which about guarantees a fire, and lots of slag everywhere. On some you can split the stuck gear but it's a bear.

Al 95 Z28

Grim Crow

@firstyr, i thought something like that was the original issue, but there seems to be no visible damage from the spring mechanism. which is why i thought it was just pressure holding it in. i honestly think my problem now has to do with pinion shaft being f-ed.

@z28 lover, not rebuildable completely, the orginal plan was just to replace the broken spider gears. Then we saw a little too much wear and tear on the rest of it so we were gonna switch out the whole thing to an open diff we had lying around as a temp replacement.

@Big Al, thanx for the reply, I did make sure to inspect the retaining bold because it was bent, but after comparing it with pictures to an intact one, it is complete. I will definately try your technique before cutting it out though. If we end up having to torch out, how did you go about it? Heh, i'm just curious about collateral damage from the oil lighting on fire. Was anything ruined that had to be replaced after torching? (other than the diff, since it's being replaced i don't care if it is ruined). Thanx in advance.