gpr

iTrader: (6)

I’m debating between buying a quick performance 9” or an s60. The 9” is attractive as it is cheaper and I don’t use car that much, I just need a rear end to hold up. My question would be for those that have them. I have read about people having clearance issues with their TA on some cars, is this the case with a stock ride height car? Also do the bigger rear ends cause the rear of the car to sit taller?

Also with both these rear ends I assume I need a different length drive shaft?

Is there anything else I need to watch out for when installing?

My car is a 4 channel setup as I have abs and traction control. Is there a way to retain abs and not traction control? And if removing traction control how do you remove the lights which I assume there would be? Cause I’m pretty sure I can’t tune it out with efi live.

javier1730

iTrader: (16)

as far as the rear-end between the QP 9" and the s60 i would pick the s60, now between the s60 and lets say a moser 9", MWC 9", M9...i would go with the 9".......QP 9" are known to have a few imperfections, do a search...there's a few people running them but is definitely not a bolt in rear, a few unusual modifications need to be done...if you have the skill to do it...its a good choice for the money...also the 9" is as strong as the s60 and is lighter, so that means less parasitic loss and it has a trillion of rations to chose from..

regarding the ride height...i think, with the 9" your car will sit higher, you can also have the rear end with the ABS and eliminated the TC control.

For the drive shaft, im not sure on the s60, but for the 9" you will need a new drive shaft or at least upgrade your joke.....

ps. if you finally go with a 9" and need a new DS i have a new PST aluminum 3.5" with a forge joke for sale.

t/a98

iTrader: (6)

The s60 needs a shorter driveshaft and the 9 Needs a longer. The 9 can get away with stock driveshaft although not ideal. As for parasitic loss the 9 has more drivetrain loss but moser claims the fab 9 is better...

The only way I know to go to abs only would be get a 3 channel set up and all the other parts. If I were you I would keep 4 channel it's just easier...

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

For the ABS light, when I get a new rear without abs, I was going to research the wiring diagram and find the wire that powers the abs light. If this wire does nothing else, I'll probably just snip it and crimp a closed end cap on the ends.

Whiteaw57

iTrader: (2)

I have a QP nine inch in mine and as the above posts are correct there are a few little things that have to be addressed, I had no problem with those as it saved me about as much as I have in the whole setup. If you want bolt in go MWC, if you wanna save some coin and do some customizing go QP. QP was perfect for me, came with moser axles, and I DD mine. TA did need clearancing (honestly it clearanced itself, Oops) and the mount had to be ground off a tad. If it were me the numerous ratios and strength of the 9 inch is what I would go with. S60s are huge and heavy

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

You will have clearance issues even at stock ride height with any other 9" rearend than the MWC fabricated 9 inch or the Moser M9. The MWC rearend is the most true bolt-in you can buy and a great value for the cost. MWC is a direct dealer for Strange, Moser, and Yukon and can get you the best deal guaranteed. Feel free to ask any questions.

gpr

iTrader: (6)

what exactly is needing "clearanced" on the 9" rear ends for them to fit? what are these little issues that need addressed on the QP 9"? I really don't have a problem doing it. The only issues i have read about was the torque arm doesn't bolt up to the rear end some times, and also the bearings leak so most put seals in them. That is all pretty easy to fix, is there anything else?

Also it seems i have read where a few have problems with the TA hitting the floor boards, is that the case?

I've never messed with a 9" rear end but it seems straight forward and super easy to assemble if the center section is already put together. With everything i want in the rear the qp 9" is gonna be easily $500 cheaper compared to the rest.

thanks for the help and advice.

coolmanvette75

iTrader: (2)

Also curious about the "little things" with the qp 9" because I am looking to get one soon...

javier1730

iTrader: (16)

for what i've read on here usual problems with the QP are bolt hole not lining up, on the LCA's, bolts on the axle tube need be ground down like in this threat here https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...ket-bolts.html also a while back someone said something about welds braking, of course not everyone running a QP rear have this problems this is some of the stuff that had happen to some people running QP rears

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

I assembled a Moser 9" myself using a center section I assembled with parts from all over, Moser housing and axles, so its essentially going to fit just like any Moser 9 rear. I have had ZERO xlearance issues, even being lowered on Hotchkis springs. I did not have to beat any panels or clearance anything. I also saved a good bit of money assembling the center section myself because I was watching clearances and sales for each part.

gpr

iTrader: (6)

I am still leaning towards the QP 9" as it is a great value and these slight modifications are very simple to make. i read about the grinding on the bolt heads and making the TA fit, wasn't sure if there was anything else needed to be done....

Oh wait i think i read were people had problems with axle bearings leaking, so they put seals in to fix it. other than this is there anything i should be aware of?

I'd like to assemble my own center section to save more but i've never done a 9" only 12 bolts so i think i'll let them handle it. thanks for the help and advice.

Whiteaw57

iTrader: (2)

inner axle seals and silicone on the outside of the bearing have me covered. Not a drop to be found.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

If you can assemble a 12 bolt, a 9" should be fairly easy for you. A 9" is probably the easiest rear end to set up..

For the axle bearing/seals, you need to RTV the inner lip before you insert the seal, and then RTV around the outer edge of the seal where it meets the housing. I forgot to add RTV under the seal on one side only when I first put it together, and when I took out the center section a few months back, that side was leaking, and the side where I put RTV under the seal was not. So I fixed it with a new seal and proper RTV placement.

Mike08ss/tc

My question is. I am looking at getting a complete 12bolt for very cheap and wondering how much abuse can these rear ends take.

zracer323

iTrader: (12)

If built right all these rear ends can hold a ton of power. It comes down to using the right parts. A big part of selecting who to go with IMO is quality and fit. That's why I chose MWC.