Bones Z28

iTrader: (8)

Ok so it was a beautiful day today so I took the SS out for a spin. I have been noticing a popping noise when I down shift or round a corner quick. So my theory was until it gets more serious and reoccurring leave it be.

So today I pull a U turn on a open stretch of road gun it and boom! Big pop noise and the car started vibrating and shaking bad when I was in 4th gear. I was able to nurse the car home and every gear worked fine so I don't think there is anything wrong with the trans I PRAY (rebuilt from RPMspeed).

What I do notice is that going over bumps the car makes pop and rattle noises cause of the drive shaft I just hope nothing else is wrong.

So here's the aftermath from what I see so far...







Questions...

1) Should I go with a steel LS1 drive shaft or get another aluminum? Car isn't crazy powerful. Dynoed 391 hp with small cam and 243 heads bolt ons etc... I just don't want to go through this again.

2). I noticed the drivers rear wheel will not move when I have the car up in the air, I can spin the passenger rear wheel but not the drivers rear. Suggestions? I'm hoping its cause of the drive shaft. It's weird that it's locked up but when I was driving it obviously moved freely, wasn't dragging.

3). What are signs of a blown differential? There's no fluids on the ground, no leaks, when I nursed it home only noise I heard was the popping and vibration from the drive shaft. At lower speeds there was no noise nursing it home.

Finally, car has a Weird fn stance now like it's a 4x4, again hope that's cause of the drive shaft haha f*** me.

Any help from past experience is greatly appreciated.

Bones Z28

iTrader: (8)

Ok did some disassembling, torque arm is shredded, don't know how it was even still holding on, drive shaft is bent and my drivers rear wheel is still locked, oppose to the passenger side which moves freely. Which I have no idea why.

Damn 89 views and not one reply. I figure someone would have experienced this before haha.

EMM3H

iTrader: (1)

damn that really sucks.. how many miles u got on ur car?
sucks having ur car down... mine a lil bit ago broke some
teeth of a gear in the tranny, and it was jumping around
******* up everything else.. rebuild time! but i was able to drive it to the shop..

hope u get everything good again..

25thhawk

iTrader: (3)

If your on a 10-bolt, I would pull the cover and check for parts of the differential in the bottom of the case. Mine was similar, broke the spider gear and locked up one side, the other side wasn't connected anymore.

I wouldn't buy a driveshaft before you check the rear. If its broke and you decide to go aftermarket on the rear, the driveshaft will be a different length.
Good luck.

Ryan

Vexzer

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like the whole rear end rotated, especially judging from the witness marks on the yoke and that the torque arm was damaged. It will be interesting if you find anything unusual under the driver side brake hat. Keep us posted! Doesn't seem like the problem was caused by the driveshaft, it may be just a casualty.

ssvert99

iTrader: (26)

Definite cause from over extended pinion travel, caused by a failed torque arm. The driveshaft will need to be checked out as it may have been tweaked from the contact with the yoke. While the driveshaft is out getting checked, pull the cover and inspect the diff unit internals.

Body mounted arm works great in your application. Check out the one MWC makes here...works great on street and track and is priced very affordable. Comes in a powdercoated finish and includes a driveshaft loop at no extra cost.

http://www.midwestchassis.com/torque-arms.html