8.8 Torqe Arm Mount Help
07-20-2012, 12:22 AM
#1
8.8 Torqe Arm Mount Help I'm about 90 percent done completing my 8.8 build aside from fabricating a torque arm provision. I had seen several different styles of mounts and I was curious if anyone had an extra one laying around I could weld to my rear end. Or if someone could give me the specs on one that they built. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I have a 95 mustang 8.8 housing with 10 bolt tubes. Any help or direction would be appreciated.Thanks
07-21-2012, 06:11 PM
#3
Pocket: Your right. I will just go buy some plates and assorted stuff from Lowes and see what I can come up with. Everything else as far as the tubes came out mint. We machined them down and turned them on a lathe to the exact specs. I guess if we did that much the torque arm cant be that hard. I was mainly wondering if anyone had any do's or donts before I do this. I know the welding issues on the housing but I have that base covered already.
08-02-2012, 08:12 PM
#4
Pretty simple on the welding cast... dont do it. Weld supports from the mild steel axle tubes up to your mount and build plates that sandwich the cast iron "wings" with bolts for a solid mount
You can build it any way you like but here's mine for an idea. Basically, the two tubes prevent any up/down rotation and the plates bolted to the center section prevent side to side movement
You can build it any way you like but here's mine for an idea. Basically, the two tubes prevent any up/down rotation and the plates bolted to the center section prevent side to side movement
08-02-2012, 10:49 PM
#5
@pocket: Your idea is probably what I will end up doing. How critical is the exact placement of the mount? How did you determine how far towards the front of the pinion and how far off to the side to go? Did you just center it vertically and butt it up against the driver side wing? Sorry for all the questions.
08-03-2012, 02:48 PM
#6
I did the conversion on a jig built around a 10 bolt to maintain all the stock mount locations, angles etc
Just from measuring, the angle from yoke to TA mount was exactly 90*. After the install I found this was not the best for driveline angle and have plans to switch to an adjustable TA. Im not sure if this was overlooked by GM when the 10 bolt was designed or if it was my error as I never measured the original DL angle. The 8.8 diff is larger than the 10 bolt so my attempt to put the TA mount in the stock location was impossible. I mounted it as close as possible, even grinding a bit from the drivers side "wing" to push the bolt sleeves closer. Just about every swap Ive seen uses an aftermarket TA, and those always hit the trans tunnel requiring a bit of clearancing from a BFH. The stock TA clears just barely. Mine is 1.125" towards the drivers side from stock
Just from measuring, the angle from yoke to TA mount was exactly 90*. After the install I found this was not the best for driveline angle and have plans to switch to an adjustable TA. Im not sure if this was overlooked by GM when the 10 bolt was designed or if it was my error as I never measured the original DL angle. The 8.8 diff is larger than the 10 bolt so my attempt to put the TA mount in the stock location was impossible. I mounted it as close as possible, even grinding a bit from the drivers side "wing" to push the bolt sleeves closer. Just about every swap Ive seen uses an aftermarket TA, and those always hit the trans tunnel requiring a bit of clearancing from a BFH. The stock TA clears just barely. Mine is 1.125" towards the drivers side from stock
08-04-2012, 09:32 PM
#7
I can figure out all of the other measurements and be fine. I'm going to be working on it tomorrow. I'm just curious how you determined how far towards the front of the rear end to mount the TA bolt holes so the torque arm holes would line up and everything would be the right length?
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04-07-2014, 05:38 PM
#9
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What type of pipe did you use Pocket? I got (had) this exact rear under my car. My car is only bolt ons and first pass I ripped the pipe in half and broke all the welds on the front and completely destroyed the mount. Also twisted an axle. Looking to get it beefed up a little
04-07-2014, 06:45 PM
#10
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the mount you made looks cool. I've used hiltsy's mount one the one I built and was very pleased. the cars went 7.02 in the 1/8th on spray. I meet a guy who's a welder and paid him $50.00 to weld it correctly by heating it to the correct temperature and control the cool down. so far it is working great but I admire you building your own.
04-08-2014, 01:13 PM
#12
What type of pipe did you use Pocket? I got (had) this exact rear under my car. My car is only bolt ons and first pass I ripped the pipe in half and broke all the welds on the front and completely destroyed the mount. Also twisted an axle. Looking to get it beefed up a little
I've never heard of failure from a hiltys mount and see no reason you couldn't replace mine with his to get yours back into service
04-08-2014, 08:28 PM
#13
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At least its not the black pipe I thought it was! I'm planning on the hiltsy mount and picked up a 31 spline carrier, ford 9' axle ends, ford racing 4:10's, rear girdle, and put new bearings through it. Should have about 1600 in it by the time its all finished up. I never had a problem with it till I took it to the track 
