2002_TAWS6

2002 WS6 32K miles
current mods are in sig. I have no suspension mods whatsoever.

Current Dyno results:
380rwhp 367 rwtq NA (cam only and bolt ons)
483rwhp 589 rwtq On spray (actual 100rwhp shot)

future mods - As far as ill ever go:
12 bolt, 3:73s (410s are too much for my daily driving), slicks, 150 shot or maybe heads as well.

Questions:

1) is a 12 bolt a MUST DO since ill probably never spray out of the hole to begin with? (3000-6200rpm window switch).

2) I see the regular 8.8 bolt sold for $1750 here http://www.extremechassis.com/ should that be more than enough for my needs? Keep in mind I want to do stuff once and once only, ill pay for upgrades if its going to save me the hassle of having me to fix broken parts in the future. But ofcourse i dont need a rearend to handle 8 sec 1/4 mile runs as I *might* never make it in the 10s, so maybe I could do it for cheaper than the expensive $2400 12 bolt stuff w/ all upgrades?

3) Will I going to need a new driveshaft? Would you recommend one as the stock driveshaft might twist or break on my current/future setup?

4) The only reason I chose to put 8.8 ford rear end VS both moser/strange is because i know the moser whines and the strange whines even more. I have heard nothing as far as the 8.8 bolt but i would assume the most whine ill ever hear would be as loud as mustangs and f150s which is perfect. Also I see a huge difference in price (ford way cheaper) and I heard there are people running consistent 8s in the 1/4 mile with those rear ends.

5) What should I go for? the ford with a couple of upgrades (if so tell me what please) or just with the regular moser 12 bolt package? Do I need a TA cover? I dont want to spend over $500 on parts ill never end up needing.

Help! Dont want to spend way to much on this rear end if I could do it for way cheaper or not even need one to begin with.

TIA

2002_TAWS6

1 more thing. Keep in mind the regular ford 8.8 is sold for $1750 vs the regular 12 bolt $1925 (ttperformance). The fully loaded 8.8 goes for $2450 while the fully loaded 12 bolt goes for $2350.

So what should i go for and what upgrades are necessary? help.

REDSS00

the 8.8 rears are pretty strong they can hold a good amount of hp and tq off the line
go with an 8.8 with bolt in axles.

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

$2450? what is "fully loaded"? i'm getting my 8.8 for $1850. of course mine is a spool which is a little cheaper. you really don't need a big billy bad *** 8.8 unless you plan on running 8's. i plan on running high 9's in my M6.

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

that exact 8.8 with some bracing has gone 8.5's in a mustang making over 1000 ft pounds of torque

2002_TAWS6

Damn the website is down at the time being . Click on www.extremechassis.com and it might be working by the time you read this (if not try it another time thats where I got $2450 from). Ofcourse, $2450 was after I added all the upgrades, hence "fully loaded". Im talking about T/A cover, strongest posi, I need abs to work and all the other *stuff* on their upgrade list basically... it added up to $2450! You should be able to find the upgrade prices on that site somewhere.

I will never even dream about running 9s in this car. Hope Ill make it in the 10s but its still far from where Im at!

What are the Cons of going with this setup? Noise? Whine? Rattle? broken parts? streetability? Cornering? Ground clearance? Please tell me what to expect. Im clueless.

How much weight am I adding to the car by swapping to a ford 8.8 rear end?

So far it looks like ill be going with a ford 8.8 very soon...

Please tell me what upgrades you think I'd need. The price difference between $1850 and $2450 is HUGE and it sounds like you agree $1850 is the most Im going to need?

2002_TAWS6

What are you reffering to exactly? im sure it must have a spool which is something ill never do.

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

since your only planning on maybe going 10's then just get the basic 8.8 ($1750) and the eaton posi ($130) all the other stuff is for extra strength.and the aluminum cover if you want it to look purtty

and why do you think you're far from 10's. i got an M2 cam, full bolt ons and a 150 wet shot and running 10.64 with my ten bolt.at 3600 lb race wheight.

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

my 8.8 is a basic 8.8 with stud kit, T/A girdle, and a spool. if you get a spool its ALOT cheaper and the posi's are what give out first in any rear, but mine never will cause i aint gonna have one. and last time i talked to craig he said the prices on posi's were going up cause he was using a better one. i think it was going up $100 bux. not sure if he's put that on his web site yet.

2002_TAWS6

thanks for the reply. He PMed me and I just recently PMed him back.
Ill wait to see what he says and call him tomorrow. Asked him a whole lot of questions though.

I have a cam only setup with bolt ons 380rwhp 363rwtq and a true 100 shot (483rwhp 588rwtq) and drive a manual (stock gears going 3:73s with new rear end). You have a 150shot cammed car (dont know much about M2s though).

Do you drive an auto? What are your 60ft times? What kind of tires did you use on the run? Did you spray out of the whole? our sig says 6.0L I assume you have heads as well?

Thanks again

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

M6, i cut a couple of 1.5's on spray but the ten bolts only last me a couple of launches, i ran 26x11.5x16 MT ET streets, launching at 5k spraying out of the hole, i have a low compression 6.0 with milled (not ported) 5.7 heads.

87_ta

I am curious about the weight difference between 10 bolt,12 bolt and 8.8, anyone know?

SUX2BU

iTrader: (14)

i think craig from Extreme chassis said that the 8.8 is the lightest being only 15 lbs heavier than a ten bolt.

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

if you want a rear end, my vote would be Extreme Chassis

they are really nice and from what ive seen, make some really nice rear ends

Hardtop00SS

iTrader: (17)

I also think the 8.8 is the way to go. I've read many posts with multiple problems with Moser rears, plus they are heavier then the 8.8. The strange 12 bolt is a nice peice, but lots of $$$. I will be purchasing an 8.8 from craig in the next few months. Good luck and let us know what you decide.

Robbie

2002_TAWS6

well I spoke to craig and his prices seemed WAY better than moser/strange . Im glad it weighs less than both of em and should not whine too.

Do you guys think Ill need a driveshaft? Should I get a better one anyways since the rear end is coming down? its for $250.

Wish I didnt have to wait 3 weeks but I have no choice really. Craig said he *might* be able to do it in 2 weeks so we'll see what happens.

I hope I made the right choice by deciding to go with a stronger rear end over a set of heads.

What "kinda" sucks for me about all of this is that I BARELY visit the 1/4 mile track. Car is really modded for street racing (not much 1/4 mile stuff). Unfortunately after the n20 install I kinda **** my pants whenever I try to spray in 1st even on the street (if it hooks 10 bolt is going bye bye ).

I guess now that Im going for a strong rear end I better get some slicks and line-lock and take this bitch to the 10s .

Because really, whats the point of getting a rear end if im sticking with nitto DRs ? Never thought Ill end up putting slicks on this car... what did I get myself into

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

ur gonna need the better rear end with even ur nitto's. i'm VERY suprised you haven't blown it already!

Hardtop00SS

iTrader: (17)

Three of my f-body buddies are running their stock 10 bolts (2 with M6, other auto) with drag radials and the other with et streets! None of them haven't blown em yet.....make me wonder if I can do it on my rear?

Robbie

chpmnsws6

iTrader: (70)

i blew my 1st rear end on KDWS tires. was rebuilt like 10k ago and haven't really launched hard since. also added a T/A girdle.

2002_TAWS6

Im spraying my car on 1st gear on nitto DRs at 4500rpms (500rwtq) and i can almost swear that the stock 10 bolt is taking no abuse. OF COURSE this is on the street with no burnouts or anything. It was done on a simple 3500rpm slipping the clutch on the launch and I dont try to spray anywhere under 4500rpms as I know im making 588rwtq on 3000rpms.

I was even thinking maybe I should just adjust my window switch pills to 4500-6200 instead of 3000-6200 and maybe never need a rearend?

When I say that the 10 bolt is not taking much abuse on the nitrous run, what I mean is that my 1st-2nd shift WITHOUT spray seems to be more stressful believe it or not.

1 thing I forgot to mention was that my rev limiter is set at 6700rpms. if I decide to race on spray in 1st gear I only shift at 6500rpms (nitrous shuts off at 6200rpms). Why? because I dont wanna break the 10 bolt trying to do a 1st-2nd shift on spray...

so far it worked perfectly fine.. and OH i drive a manual with stock 3:42s and have a spec 3 clutch.

I have seen someone spraying a huge shot also on his 10bolt. I think he dynoed 707rwhp (383LQ4SS is his name here if I recall correctly). He mentioned he had over 20 passes at the track with no problems but eventually he got a better rear end in the future. BUT i dont even think he even broke the 10 bolt?

so far im guessing that the 10 bolts will ONLY break on a hard launch or a very powerful 1st-2nd shift on good tires.

Im only thinking getting the rear end now because i want to go with 3:73s, I want to launch as hard as I can whenever I want to, and I want to shift 1st-2nd on spray without being paranoid. Also I want to buy one now before the stock rear end breaks because I know when its time to sell the car I should be able to make $1500 on the strong rearend and put my stock rear end back. Total future loss $700? not bad really.