4WOFURY

iTrader: (2)

Car is a 6spd cam only car, built trans, and MWC 9". I was stupid when I ordered the rear and ordered it with stock size studs (12x1.5). I'm launching the car at 6500 off a two step, clutch dropping, with a Monster 3. Definitely makes for a fun ride lol.

I borrowed a set of wheels/tires from a friend to try out 26" tires, and his wheels used acorn style lugs. I twisted the studs, and feel it's time to upgrade to 1/2. Thankfully I got the axle dual drilled when I ordered it, so it won't require new axles. They're strange s/t, with screw in studs.

Here is what I need:

Any recommendations on studs? I need 1/2", screw in style.

Any instructions on how to change them out? It is a 3ch car, so there is not an access hole. How would I go about it? Pull the axles? How does it need to go back in?

Anyway, here are some pics of the studs, the axles, and a video of the pass with two passengers (approx 330-350lb).








( http://s15.beta.photobucket.com/user...CF5CD.mp4.html ) In case the video doesn't work

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

How long do you need the studs to be? I have some 1/2", 2" long screw in studs from Mark Williams (made by ARP), but they are stock length, not 3" like you see most of them.

4WOFURY

iTrader: (2)

I'm running Weld RT-S wheels, so it looks like I'm going to need a 2.5-3" stud to meet requirements. Sorry I didn't specify.

For the studs, looks like ARP 100-7704 is what I need? Any thoughts contrary?

Any installation instructions? Whether I'll have to pull axles, bearings, or whatever.. Or whether I can just drill an access hole? Or?

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

For installing the studs, I've read that you can drill a hole in the brake mount to get the studs removed and installed without disassembling the axle. Note that the ARP studs have smaller heads than the Strange studs, possibly you could loosen up the Strange studs a bit and cut the heads off and unscrew them out the wheel side. Then you wouldn't have to make quite as big a hole in the brake mount to install the ARP studs.
Check out this thread.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...placement.html

370ci_NBM_SS

You said you were going BIG, 1/2 ain't big.......go 5/8's and don't look back I did
Especially since you're clutch dumping and a 6 speed

93camaro_zzz

iTrader: (13)

I don't know which Weld wheels will accept 5/8" studs in factory form. I know I have 1/2" studs in my 9" and my Weld Pro-stars BAAAARELY fit over the 1/2" studs. I know they wouldn't fit on 5/8", and I would hate to drill the wheels unless I absolutely needed 5/8".

4WOFURY

iTrader: (2)

This actually has me thinking. I need to swap gears, so might as well have the axles out and do it all at once.. Seems like a viable option, though I hate to limit the wheels on which I'll be able to use on the car. Car will be getting a 100-150 shot sprayed straight out of the gate at some point in the near future, so the extra durability would be nice when most of the drivetrain is capable of supporting 1000whp/wtq, some of it even warrantied to it lol. Transmission is the weak link ATM, rated to support 600wtq.


On the other hand, I hate to limit wheel availability, since that was the whole reason I stayed with a stock length rear..

93camaro_zzz

iTrader: (13)

Yeah same here, my 9 inch is a stock width because I wanted to be able to swap on street rims if I wanted to. Now my car is mostly a track car. Karma I guess. and I don't know HOOOOW many shortened rear ends I passed up to buy this one. lol

If you HAVE to stay stock stud size, maybe try some ARP studs and that might work for ya.

jc98ss

iTrader: (13)

OP, love the vid.....this is off topic, but what did you have done to your 6spd for it to be built?....would launches like this grenade a factory T56?

4WOFURY

iTrader: (2)

Heh I ordered mine from MWC, stayed stock length with stock size studs, but got a 1000hp driveshaft, 35 spline axles, wavetrac, 3ch abs, etc. I love driving it on the rare occasions that I do take it out of the garage, as it drives just like it did with a stock rear end. On the flip side, I don't have any street wheels/tires; it usually gets driven straight to the track and back or to the local car hangout; and with the 28" slicks ABS does not work anyway. It's basically a track only car now with a bunch of unnecessary money wasted. I have driven it on 4 300+ mile trips when I did have street tires, just as it is, and for those occasions it's nice. If I did it over again, I would start with the 1/2x3 studs, if not the 5/8 on a more serious set-up.

No reason to stay stock size or 1/2" other than wheel availability, but I might throw that out the window and stop borrowing wheels from friends :-/ lol.

Tick Performance lvl 2 build ( http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...camaro-firebird/ )

I did opt for the viper 2nd gear, but other than that it's stock input/main/output shaft and stock gears. Of course it depends on how much power you're making, but so far it seems to be holding up fine for me lol. Car is definitely hurting for gear, as I made yet another poor decision and put 3.89s in it. It really needs 4.56s for motor or I'm estimating 4.11/4.30s for some gas lol

93camaro_zzz

iTrader: (13)

You and me both need a new gear. I have 3.50's in mine right now and it is KILLING my sixty foot. Looking to swap in 4.30's ASAP! That should do the trick.