Strange s60, 4.10 installed purchased from Carl @ CRP
03-18-2013, 10:40 PM
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Strange s60, 4.10 installed purchased from Carl @ CRP So I finally blew my crappy 10 bolt a little over a month ago and finally had a reason to get the Strange s60. Gave Carl @ CRP a call and he set me up with the s60 with the 4.10s and BMR LCA relocation brackets and driveshaft at a good price. Very easy guy to deal with and he will help you out in anyway.
While waiting on the rear, ordered in Founders double adjustable rod LCAs and PHB, Koni single adjustables, BMR sway bar and brakemotive drilled/slotted rotors. I decided to paint the calipers and brackets (along with rebuilding calipers) while out of the car along with the stock coil springs while im still using them.
When the rear got in I coated it with POR 15 and top coated it with some left over caliper paint i had. As for the driveshaft, just a few coats of primer and some black topcoat.
A few days later it was time to install. About half a Saturdays worth of installing the rearend, all rear suspension, driveshaft, all four corners worth of brakes and bleeding and it was back down on the ground. I am so happy with the way it looks and how it performs. A combination of the 408 up front with the new rear with 4.10s just feels so much better than how it was bought completely stock.
While waiting on the rear, ordered in Founders double adjustable rod LCAs and PHB, Koni single adjustables, BMR sway bar and brakemotive drilled/slotted rotors. I decided to paint the calipers and brackets (along with rebuilding calipers) while out of the car along with the stock coil springs while im still using them.
When the rear got in I coated it with POR 15 and top coated it with some left over caliper paint i had. As for the driveshaft, just a few coats of primer and some black topcoat.
A few days later it was time to install. About half a Saturdays worth of installing the rearend, all rear suspension, driveshaft, all four corners worth of brakes and bleeding and it was back down on the ground. I am so happy with the way it looks and how it performs. A combination of the 408 up front with the new rear with 4.10s just feels so much better than how it was bought completely stock.
03-18-2013, 11:50 PM
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Thanks I appreciate it. It's really a simple straight forward install. First save yourself some money and take the backing plates and TCS reluctors (if you have TCS) off your stock rear and send them to strange to have them installed.
When installing it, basically a helping hand is the biggest thing to have as one the rear is quite stout, and two its better to have someone working the jack while tweeking the rear and suspension together, otherwise you will be doing a lot of up and down from under the car. Depending on your exhaust the driveshaft may be a little difficult to get in. I have custom true duals and the x pipe runs right under the shaft. Originally I had the rear just held up by suspension and couldnt get shaft at right angle without hitting rear. So I just had to compress rear suspension and the shaft went right in. I had to file the shock mounts on the rear for my new Konis but i think that was mostly due to the POR15. When installing sway bar, also had to compress the suspension to get the angle it right to the bolts on the body, otherwise the bushings will be at too much an angle.
When installing it, basically a helping hand is the biggest thing to have as one the rear is quite stout, and two its better to have someone working the jack while tweeking the rear and suspension together, otherwise you will be doing a lot of up and down from under the car. Depending on your exhaust the driveshaft may be a little difficult to get in. I have custom true duals and the x pipe runs right under the shaft. Originally I had the rear just held up by suspension and couldnt get shaft at right angle without hitting rear. So I just had to compress rear suspension and the shaft went right in. I had to file the shock mounts on the rear for my new Konis but i think that was mostly due to the POR15. When installing sway bar, also had to compress the suspension to get the angle it right to the bolts on the body, otherwise the bushings will be at too much an angle.
03-20-2013, 12:16 PM
#6
questions for you, on you bmr lca relocation brackets, do you have any gap between the lower control arm and the bmr bracket when you fit it in?
on mine which i haven't fully installed yet only test fit, my oem lca's and my umi adjustable lca's when mounting into the bmr brackets are not snug, have maybe 1/4" or lateral movement. i guess i can fit some washers in as shims between the lca and bracket to take up the slack. which holes did you use on the bmr brackets for the lower control arms? Also, did you do anything special with brake lines or just re-use and bend the oem lines from the 10-bolt ? and how was mounting the oem brackets for the brake line/parking brake at the axle ends? I haven't figured out what i'm doing yet because they don't fit since the bmr brackets are welded on.
on mine which i haven't fully installed yet only test fit, my oem lca's and my umi adjustable lca's when mounting into the bmr brackets are not snug, have maybe 1/4" or lateral movement. i guess i can fit some washers in as shims between the lca and bracket to take up the slack. which holes did you use on the bmr brackets for the lower control arms? Also, did you do anything special with brake lines or just re-use and bend the oem lines from the 10-bolt ? and how was mounting the oem brackets for the brake line/parking brake at the axle ends? I haven't figured out what i'm doing yet because they don't fit since the bmr brackets are welded on.
03-20-2013, 03:59 PM
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I had no gap whatsoever. It was good and snug in there, but not too snug to where i had to beat it into place. Did your LCAs come with any hardware/bushings? I purchased the new hardware with my new Founders LCAs and that kit came with metal bushings that fit perfectly in there.
I installed my LCAs into the bottom holes of the bracket, read quite abit and found thats what everyone suggests, and it seems to work really good with my setup so far.
As far as the brake lines i just made them go into the same configuration as stock. My s60 came in with welded tabs to secure the hard lines. As far as the ebrake "U" shape bracket to fit the BMR bracket, I cut one of the ends off to look more like a "L" and fit it up on the BMR bracket at the very top. If installed correctly, it should almost look like it was made to fit the bracket. I can get pictures of what i did if you would like. Also their were round metal bent brackets that held the ebrake cable and TCS harness that i just mounted into differential cover mounting bolts. Also can get pictures of this as well.
I installed my LCAs into the bottom holes of the bracket, read quite abit and found thats what everyone suggests, and it seems to work really good with my setup so far.
As far as the brake lines i just made them go into the same configuration as stock. My s60 came in with welded tabs to secure the hard lines. As far as the ebrake "U" shape bracket to fit the BMR bracket, I cut one of the ends off to look more like a "L" and fit it up on the BMR bracket at the very top. If installed correctly, it should almost look like it was made to fit the bracket. I can get pictures of what i did if you would like. Also their were round metal bent brackets that held the ebrake cable and TCS harness that i just mounted into differential cover mounting bolts. Also can get pictures of this as well.
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03-20-2013, 06:17 PM
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I only have about 75 miles on it right now and still going easy on it, just trying to break it in. If it does though I can't hear it over the true duals.
03-20-2013, 10:01 PM
#11
pics would be cool.
i have about 0.060" play between the lca and the bracket, plenty to rattle around. you don't have this?
and i ended cutting my parking brake brackets apart where they had been welded together, figure i can always tack them back together if need be. so my plan was to mount the bracket using the existing bolt hole, whether its the same bolt for the lca or a second bolt through the top hole i haven't decided yet. not sure if one bolt worth of clamp will keep the bracket from rotating, i was thinking of putting a smaller 1/4" bolt through it and tapping the hole in the bracket to secure it.
i have about 0.060" play between the lca and the bracket, plenty to rattle around. you don't have this?
and i ended cutting my parking brake brackets apart where they had been welded together, figure i can always tack them back together if need be. so my plan was to mount the bracket using the existing bolt hole, whether its the same bolt for the lca or a second bolt through the top hole i haven't decided yet. not sure if one bolt worth of clamp will keep the bracket from rotating, i was thinking of putting a smaller 1/4" bolt through it and tapping the hole in the bracket to secure it.
Last edited by 1 FMF; 03-20-2013 at 10:38 PM. Reason: pics
03-20-2013, 10:27 PM
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This is the passenger side cut e brake cable bracket to fit the BMR LCA relocation bracket. It's too dark to get a good pic of how I braced the cable/TCS wires up at the carrier.
03-20-2013, 11:19 PM
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1 FMF no I didn't have that play in my LCAs but my metal bushings also looked different than yours, they took a little bit to get in the BMR bracket because the fit was pretty much right on. Did you buy a hardware kit with your LCAs?
As far as the ebrake bracket, if you just cut the inside ear off and leave the back side, they bolt right in to the furthest top hole, which if i remember correctly, their are two sets of holes on the bottom side of the BMR bracket and another set up higher, almost right at the axle tube. Thats where the ebrake bracket fit. I didn't drill the back side for a second bolt for the bracket because with the one bolt going all the way through it seemed good and tight to where it cant rotate. For a little insurance it might be good to go ahead and do this.
As far as the ebrake bracket, if you just cut the inside ear off and leave the back side, they bolt right in to the furthest top hole, which if i remember correctly, their are two sets of holes on the bottom side of the BMR bracket and another set up higher, almost right at the axle tube. Thats where the ebrake bracket fit. I didn't drill the back side for a second bolt for the bracket because with the one bolt going all the way through it seemed good and tight to where it cant rotate. For a little insurance it might be good to go ahead and do this.
03-21-2013, 11:37 AM
#14
my UMI LCA's didn't come with a hardware kit, as far as i know there isn't one and when I had them on the car with the oem 10-bolt there was no problem, fit was fine and snug.
my oem LCA's also rattle around on the S60 whether it's on the bmr bracket part or in the original location on the s60 such as if i didn't opt for the bmr brackets when ordering.
my oem LCA's also rattle around on the S60 whether it's on the bmr bracket part or in the original location on the s60 such as if i didn't opt for the bmr brackets when ordering.
03-21-2013, 12:48 PM
#15
my UMI LCA's didn't come with a hardware kit, as far as i know there isn't one and when I had them on the car with the oem 10-bolt there was no problem, fit was fine and snug.
my oem LCA's also rattle around on the S60 whether it's on the bmr bracket part or in the original location on the s60 such as if i didn't opt for the bmr brackets when ordering.
my oem LCA's also rattle around on the S60 whether it's on the bmr bracket part or in the original location on the s60 such as if i didn't opt for the bmr brackets when ordering.
Thank You,
Carl
03-23-2013, 12:09 AM
#16
my oem LCA's measure 2.404" for the metal insert within the rubber bushing.
my umi LCA's with the roto joint end measures 2.404" in width.
the bmr bracket lower hole on left side of s60 measures 2.460".
the bmr bracket lower hole on right side of s60 measure 2.480".
i can fit my umi roto end into the s60 bracket upper original hole on the left side and fit 0.060" worth of feeler guages in between. On the right side i can fit 0.075" of feeler gauges. And i have a single coat of por-15 paint on the inside of the axle brackets.
I measured the brackets on my oem 10-bolt and their width is 4.410".
my umi LCA's with the roto joint end measures 2.404" in width.
the bmr bracket lower hole on left side of s60 measures 2.460".
the bmr bracket lower hole on right side of s60 measure 2.480".
i can fit my umi roto end into the s60 bracket upper original hole on the left side and fit 0.060" worth of feeler guages in between. On the right side i can fit 0.075" of feeler gauges. And i have a single coat of por-15 paint on the inside of the axle brackets.
I measured the brackets on my oem 10-bolt and their width is 4.410".
03-24-2013, 09:12 PM
#17
Can you take a picture of the brake line routing?
When I got mine my caliper brackets bot the calipers on the rear not the front like yours.
So I can't get the lines to mount up right. Do I have to flip the brackets around?
When I got mine my caliper brackets bot the calipers on the rear not the front like yours.
So I can't get the lines to mount up right. Do I have to flip the brackets around?
03-24-2013, 09:12 PM
#18
Can you take a picture of the brake line routing?
When I got mine my caliper brackets bot the calipers on the rear not the front like yours.
So I can't get the lines to mount up right. Do I have to flip the brackets around?
When I got mine my caliper brackets bot the calipers on the rear not the front like yours.
So I can't get the lines to mount up right. Do I have to flip the brackets around?
03-25-2013, 09:09 PM
#20
You just have to gently straighten out some of the tighter bends in the lines where they go over the pumpkin. If you work them out slowly you'll be able to make everything fit, the brake line Tee even bolts to the web by the axle tube. Being a '94 mine has brakes like yours and the only thing I had to do was drill a 3/16 dia hole in the drivers side lca mount to bolt the brake line support bracket to. Compare the rears and you'll see where.
Cause I have them setup like the factory 10 bolt and there is no way without some bending that will fit into the welded on clips.