mthake

Hi all, I would greatly appreciate some advice on this.

I have purchased a highly modified 2000 Trans AM. I'm concerned that the rear end was modified, and its failing.

It's hard to explain. It's making noises just like old drum brakes, when the springs would break. a creaking, scraping and popping noise. I have looked at all external mechanics, and all seems well. it has rear disc brakes.

Now, i just drove the car 800 miles from Denver, with no issues. It drives around town just fine.

Can anyone offer some suggestions?

Blackpanther99

iTrader: (8)

You could start by changing out the rear end fluid. Fluid could be old and its causing all those noises. What rear end does it have?

Jasonalan08

iTrader: (1)

I would pull the cover off the and look at the bearings, my 99 Z28 was whining real bad and the bearings were in real bad shape. I replaced the bearings and seals and it has been fine for about a year now.

alamantia

iTrader: (10)

Does a 2000 have a auburn style or a torsen style? An auburn style uses spider gears. When spider gears wear out they skip a tooth under acceleration giving off a poping sound. They can be rebuilt with a new set of spider gears from auburn and a new crush sleeve.

dailydriver

The 2000s had a T-1 Torsen, except for the SLP installed option for an Auburn (Pro, I think??) ONLY on the SSes and Firehawks.

mthake

I'm not sure how to determine which rear end it is, any suggestions? Or if its been modified. Can you offer any suggestions?

Blackpanther99

iTrader: (8)

Start off by at least taking pics of it and posting them here, or just count the bolts on the rear end.

mthake

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Finally got it in the shop. Everything in the case looks in good shape. It had some fairly new purple gear oil.

So, several mechanics looked at it, and they couldn't find anything evidently wrong. All the teeth are in good order, no broken parts.

It only makes noises when turning. When you get going straight, its quiet as a mouse. But, holy smokes, when you slow down and turn, it sounds like the rear ends going to fall out

mthake

forgot to add the gears are 41/11 or 3.73

mthake

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Thought this may help. She has 60k on it, highly modified, and very fast!

mthake

RPO Codes are

FE2 Ride Handling Suspension
G80 Posi
GU2 2.73, actual is 3.73 (modified)

therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

What you have is an auburn so ^^^^^^^^, worn clutches, or broken/weak springs could be your issue.

Its a 3 channel abs (but no tcs) btw.

mthake

Ok, that's what I was thinking, but thanks for the specifics.

I've got a couple more questions:

Here are the High Performance options from Auburn.
1988–Present 542040 3.23:1 & Up 28 Teeth
1976–1988 542041 3.08:1 & Down 28 Teeth

As my original gears were 2.73, and they're now 3.73, do you think the differential was changed? Or do I have 3.73 ring gears on the 3:08 and down differential? Is this possible?

And, If i purchase a new differential, do I need to stick with the Auburn? Or can go with the Eaton.

mthake

I found this on Craigslist. Its a 10 bolt F-Body Rearend minus brakes, out of 2002 Z-28 A4 Low miles 8k, RPO CODE GU5 3.23 for $500. Is it worth it? Should it bolt right into my application?

therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

Your current diff is a replacement from somewhere because your car originally came with a torsen. Regarding the diff purchase alone you need to know whether it is a 3 series or a 2 series. FromI everything I know your current is a 3 series and this is very important for you to be sure of, so please do a bit of investigation to double check me, I am just a random guy on the internet.

For the full r&r rear from CL what is important is whether it is 3 channel (abs only like what you have) or 4 channel (abs + tcs). You want to make sure you get a 3 channel. It looks to be 3 channel to me as there appears to be a sensor on top of the pumpkin but again random Internet guy here.

Is it worth it? IMO thats top dollar for a used 10 bolt...but if you aren't familiar and/or dont have the tools to do rearend work it is a reasonable option. Rearend work is a bitch. But given that your car is "highly modified" I would consider upgrading to something better IF you want to launch on sticky tires. For spinning on cold street rubber the 10b will work...but they scare the $÷=& out of me at the track. A bit over 2k can get you a 9" with a spool. Its 4x the dosh and 9" have their own pecularities...but they dont have c clips and have a more robust pinion bearing scheme...among several other advantages.

In any case, if you change ratios you will need a minor tune. . .and you can buy any diff you want but you need to get the right series carrier or your gears wont line up.

flintwrench69

iTrader: (11)

It does appear to be an auburn, I would stick with that over a torsen. Reason is there's bolts on a torsen carrier that like to loosen up & break. The auburn doesn't have these bolts. Maybe it just needs some limited slip additive added, lacking that could make it noisy on turns like you describe. I forgot to add it once & it sounded scary on turns.

mthake

HMM, Can you confirm from my RPO codes?

mthake

I wondered this as well. When its cold, its quiet. however, before I'm even a mile away, it's noisy as heck..

THANKS SO FOR EVERYTHING THUS FAR!!

mthake

I forgot to add. This is not a track car. I had purchased it for my wife. It will be her daily driver. I don't want to remove the high performance equipment, but I'll do what is needed to make it a reliable sports car.

therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

If your car is in fact a 2000 and is not a firehawk or ss camaro it came with a torsen originally. ..were it an ss or firehawk it would be possible, not necessarily probable, that it came with an Auburn. It was optional only on the slp modded cars.