Pinion preload - adjusting for new oil seal?
08-12-2013, 01:21 AM
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Pinion preload - adjusting for new oil seal? I'm about to replace the oil seal in my differential due to a newfound leak. I've been doing some research on setting the preload correctly. As the car sits now the preload is showing about 15 in lbs with the brakes removed. This seems to be in line with most specs I've seen for used bearings. Now, I am not replacing anything but the seal, however my hanes manual calls for an additional 10 inch lbs of torque to compensate for the new oil seal. Does this sound correct to anyone? I see that fresh bearings should add about 10 inch lbs to the preload setting, but a new oil seal?
08-12-2013, 11:37 PM
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Pinion preload is measured with no carrier in-place, meaning no brakes, axles, or center chunk. Any other way is wrong. Also, you should be using a new crush sleeve each time. Mark it, put it back the same, and pray for the best if you don't want to do it right.
08-17-2013, 02:53 PM
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followup for anyone who checks this later - I used the method of marking the bolt, carrier, and nut, counting threads and rotations. When I put everything back together I couldn't turn the nut any further anyway from under the car. No problems so far - seems to have worked just fine.
For what its worth, I did measure the preload torque on the pinion nut out of curiousty. I measured before and after with no wheels/calipers on the car. Before the seal the preload was approx 15 inch lbs, afterwards about 22 (again this is with the nut in the exact same position.)
For what its worth, I did measure the preload torque on the pinion nut out of curiousty. I measured before and after with no wheels/calipers on the car. Before the seal the preload was approx 15 inch lbs, afterwards about 22 (again this is with the nut in the exact same position.)
08-18-2013, 01:03 PM
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After reading your caution on reusing the nut I got under there and staked the nut to the pinion with a center punch and about ten good wacks from a hammer. Hope it never has to come off. If it does, the shop will be dealing with my hack job.
So between that, the loctite, and a couple dabs of jb weld i blotted on the exposed threads where the pinion met the nut, i think ill be ok... Hopefully.
So between that, the loctite, and a couple dabs of jb weld i blotted on the exposed threads where the pinion met the nut, i think ill be ok... Hopefully.
Last edited by Loochy88; 08-18-2013 at 05:08 PM.
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08-21-2013, 11:12 AM
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Way overkill. As much as a new nut is better I can't even tell how many pinion seals I have done by the mark and replace method and nothing more. The nut is not staked it is a lock nut. At least the 10 bolt and any modern gm factory nut that I have seen. A little locktite would be enough added insurance. Yes a complete teardown of the rear would be the only way to do preload properly period. That's my view on that.
