SladeX

Finally got that thing in with my Watt's link. Still some tweaking to do to get positioning all dialed in and find out all the "contact" points on my exhaust.

On a good note, no gear whine. Well significantly less than 3.90's on a 10 bolt prior to its grenading. To hear, the stereo volume must be off and the windows up and no one talking in the car... conversations can easily drown it out.

I noticed that it does "rob" some power. You can feel it off the launch that it has robbed some torque to just get it going. Acceleration wise, you can feel it there too, but to be honest, I've only rolled into the throttle and not stressed it beyond some highway acceleration.

The 4th bolt hole option on the LCA locks the damn rear down. I mean my rear body roll in turns is significantly less than the LCA relocation 2nd spot on my 10 bolt.

Stock driveshaft fits. I noted 1/4 of an inch difference in position of the exposed yoke versus stock. No out of the ordinary vibration at any highway speeds (and some speeds beyond heh).

Season is done so I doubt I'll get some hard launches on it before the breakin is complete. Also, if your springs didn't go back in completley and you drive it and they "snap" back into the spot, you'll think something broke and it'll scare the **** out of you...

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

That is strange that the stock driveshaft is only off by .25, as we normally see the 9 inches needing a one inch longer driveshaft. Is the rear centered front to rear in the wheelwells? Bob

SladeX

I'm actually not centered: the wheel is 1/2 inch back on both sides. I'm having a custom ds made monday.

Bob@BruteSpeed

iTrader: (16)

That is bizarre! Make sure you're getting your measurements with the rear in the loaded position. Bob

35th SS

iTrader: (2)

pics.

SladeX

My car is definitely biased on the tires 1/2 to the rear. I would say this is more the difference in the 9 inch from being physically bigger. I was centered on the 10 bolt with my adjustable LCA's with regards to the tires. So I see no reason to "center" it further considering how well it all lines up from a driveline perspective.

Ok so I got around to measuring everything at the driveshaft shop.

Definitely 1 inch short. I had it properly loaded this time around and found it off by 1 inch. Measurements from center of ear to center of ear is 40 1/4 on the stock shaft and based on the new yoke, 41 1/4 would be ideal yoke to yoke. This gives 2 3/4 engagement into the transmission, the current engagement of the stock shaft is 2 1/16 into the transmission.

The key difference is in the yokes used. a 1350 yoke and a 3r yoke has different base size. So my measurements now are based off the car suspension loaded naturally with the new replacement yoke.

The replacement driveshaft is a aluminum police interceptor shaft 3.5" diameter, 0.125". 41 1/4 length ear to ear.

Based on those stats, this shaft is good to 85% of critical speed 9180 rpm or 178mph, top of 5th gear for me, redline 6700 rpm 200 rpm beyond hp peak. Actual critical speed is 10900rpm give or take 200 rpm. I doubt I could push 5000rpm in 6th but its within the critical speed still.

Driveshaft is in, half critical speed during balancing was 6100 rpm. Good for 10k operation.

3-3-4281 Neapco Slip yoke 27 spline Made in USA
5-1350X Spicer Forged U/Joints
3.5 inch diameter Neapco 0.125" thick police interceptor aluminum shaft