Strange Pro Nod or Hybrid??
10-28-2013, 05:01 PM
#1
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Strange Pro Nod or Hybrid?? I'm in the market for a 9" from MWC.
My 10 bolt went out, so I'll be getting a 9 during tax season. I currently have the lt1 still in my 94 TA. I'm in the process of doing a 5.3 swap and then doing turbo. When all is said and done, I'm wanting a solid 700WHP.
I contacted MWC and they recommend I go with the Strange Hybrid case with exclusive pinion support($400)
I'm not sure if I should go with that or the Strange Pro Nod Iron ($125) rated at 850+hp
I'm wondering what you guys that have either one have to say about the pieces, what you recommend, etc.
I'm not too concerned about the weight factor, I just wanna know which one is better overall, or if I should just do the cheaper one since I don't plan on going to 850whp.
Thanks!!
Edit: The car will be a street car. Maybe see the track once or twice a year, if that.
My 10 bolt went out, so I'll be getting a 9 during tax season. I currently have the lt1 still in my 94 TA. I'm in the process of doing a 5.3 swap and then doing turbo. When all is said and done, I'm wanting a solid 700WHP.
I contacted MWC and they recommend I go with the Strange Hybrid case with exclusive pinion support($400)
I'm not sure if I should go with that or the Strange Pro Nod Iron ($125) rated at 850+hp
I'm wondering what you guys that have either one have to say about the pieces, what you recommend, etc.
I'm not too concerned about the weight factor, I just wanna know which one is better overall, or if I should just do the cheaper one since I don't plan on going to 850whp.
Thanks!!
Edit: The car will be a street car. Maybe see the track once or twice a year, if that.
Last edited by Benji17; 10-28-2013 at 06:33 PM.
10-28-2013, 05:42 PM
#2
The base package case(nodular S series) is rated to about the 700hp mark and is normally coupled with the "Daytona" style pinion support that has street oiling designed into it. We can put the Daytona support with the Pro Nodular case for a bit extra capacity, but at that point I suggest going with the larger bearings of the race style support to match the power ratings of the better case.
The standard race style support that Strange(and most others) make does not have the proper oiling system built into it for street use. I do offer a modification to the case and support to make them worthy on the street but the cost between the two becomes very close by the time its done.
The HD Pro(hybrid) case from Strange was designed specifically for the higher powered street/strip cars that need the benefits from the larger bearings(same bearings as race support), incorporated oiling system, superior strength(compared to other thru-bolt alum cases), and lightweight materials.
look here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...inch-case.html
The standard race style support that Strange(and most others) make does not have the proper oiling system built into it for street use. I do offer a modification to the case and support to make them worthy on the street but the cost between the two becomes very close by the time its done.
The HD Pro(hybrid) case from Strange was designed specifically for the higher powered street/strip cars that need the benefits from the larger bearings(same bearings as race support), incorporated oiling system, superior strength(compared to other thru-bolt alum cases), and lightweight materials.
look here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...inch-case.html
10-28-2013, 06:36 PM
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So I guess it's worth it from reading the link...
Noob question- I know I'm gonna be ordering a new driveshaft as well. And I'm also gonna be going with a tr6060 instead of the t56. Will this cause any problems with running the 9? Will there have to be any mods made?
Noob question- I know I'm gonna be ordering a new driveshaft as well. And I'm also gonna be going with a tr6060 instead of the t56. Will this cause any problems with running the 9? Will there have to be any mods made?
10-28-2013, 06:46 PM
#4
Transmission will not cause any issues with the rearend. We can setup the driveshaft how ever you like it and for just about any transmission. You will need to check into the overall length of the trans and tailshaft spline count for the TR6060 is all.
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10-29-2013, 10:55 AM
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Forgot to mention that I'll be running the t56 with the ls swap until I get the turbo stuff. Once I get that, I'll be switching to a tr6060. I think I'll just run the aluminum with the t56, then switch to a steel one when I switch the trans.
10-29-2013, 12:45 PM
#10
you can run the stock shaft temporarily with a 9 inch. I found after the conversion joint that I had 2 inch of slip yoke engagement still despite my rear now biased back in the wheel wells 1/4 of an inch. unless you want to run the car hard, get the custom shaft made after its installed and you can measure the new slip yoke from center to center on the yoke u joint
10-29-2013, 05:45 PM
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10-30-2013, 10:39 AM
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The stock engagement varies, but should be almost 3 inches. The driveline shop I went to said I should have the new yoke have about 1 inch of movement to work with from fully in and about 2 3/4 inch minimum of the yoke within the transmission. Basically with the new yoke, I needed a 1 inch longer driveshaft which left me with like 2.9 inch of slip yoke engagement.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...slip-yoke.html
This thread is a bit informative on what happens with shorter length shafts and possible existing driveline issues. Now bear in mind, I ran vibration free with 2 inch of slip yoke engagement over 500 miles, no hard launches, just lots of driving until I was ready to have my custom ds made. My driveline angles were set correctly with +2 at the tip of the torque arm -2 on the end. (BMR torque arm relocation (adjustable) + standard BMR torque arm is biased -2 degrees, also measured to be correct).
https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axl...slip-yoke.html
This thread is a bit informative on what happens with shorter length shafts and possible existing driveline issues. Now bear in mind, I ran vibration free with 2 inch of slip yoke engagement over 500 miles, no hard launches, just lots of driving until I was ready to have my custom ds made. My driveline angles were set correctly with +2 at the tip of the torque arm -2 on the end. (BMR torque arm relocation (adjustable) + standard BMR torque arm is biased -2 degrees, also measured to be correct).
10-30-2013, 01:26 PM
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Ok. So another question...
My car is an LT1 right now. I'll be switching to a 5.3 later in the year. Since I'm going to have to convert to an ls style t56, will my new driveshaft work with both the LT and LS style transmission, or am I gonna have to get a new one?
My car is an LT1 right now. I'll be switching to a 5.3 later in the year. Since I'm going to have to convert to an ls style t56, will my new driveshaft work with both the LT and LS style transmission, or am I gonna have to get a new one?
10-30-2013, 02:37 PM
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Ok. I was contemplating getting a ls trans from a donor, or just swap over the necessary parts to make my trans into an ls. I just wasn't sure if it would affectthe driveshaft at all. Thanks.